:iagree:
And we still Love You!
:tiphat:

:iagree:
I feel your pain on waiting. I've ordered stuff and they tell me there is a 18 month lead time. :eek: You suck it up and go with it. What can you do. Look at the guys waiting for FI exhausts. Who knew that FI would have such a back log on it. My ForgeLine rims took 3 months. And they was made in Ohio.

Machine shops are always a hold up. I generally tell people to expect at least 6 months, even if quoted 6 weeks. Short block machine work is what kept our fast car off the road for the entirety of 2018. We broke my 1 rule of engine builds: never build the engine that is in the car unless you are ok with not driving that car for a year. Justin really wanted to use his original block and crank though... but that came with the sacrifice of not having his Z for the entire year when he could have been driving it.

Anyways, definitely dont let it stress you out! Think of it of as a season or two less wear and tear on the rest of the car.

lol ... because of the lag time in my build I now have a very low mileage 2009 'Z'

I was lucky enough to have Daelen lead the way. I bought a junkyard long block and that is what they are building. I am still driving my car thank goodness. I will build my existing motor a year or two after this one. I want to see if we have some more data on how to deal with the open deck block since more folks are looking into this issue now.

Alright, I will start posting again. If you poot-heads start razing me again I will clam up like a clam shell.

We'll get the jaws of life and pry that shell open. :rofl2:

Posting some of my thoughts about why I changed to the FI 2.5 turbo's.

My personal goals for my car are different than most. I want to make the most whp with the lowest amount of boost I can make. Boost is just a measure of restriction. The restriction can be in the intake side, the exhaust side, or a combination of both. Someone pointed out to me that I will not make my whp goals with the FI 2.0 turbo's (No names mentioned, you know who you are). That was Ok with me but I wanted to figure out why. I started searching around for as many dyno graphs as I could find with the FI 2.0 turbo's. The only problem I found was that most folks that had the 2.0 turbo's didn't have a built engine. That means the tuner was trying to limit the TQ on the engine down low. So the data would be skewed. I then studied the dyno graphs of Justin and Phunk's build. Hmm, interesting. At 4k rpm he was at 10psi of boost just like the FI 2.0 kit. Seb was trying to limit the TQ on his tune also due to his stock block. To me I consider this to mean the lag/response difference was very minimal. So now the question is why not use a GT3076 turbo (FI 2.5 turbo's) instead of the GT2868 (FI 2.0 turbo's). The answer to that is simple, cost. I already had the FI 2.0 turbo's that I originally ordered with my kit because, at the time, I was going the build the motor at a later date. So, why did I decide to upgrade anyway. Good question that I will talk about at a later date.

Hmmmm. Interesting thought process. I can see where you're going with this.

I'll drop the bomb later. I may wait until my build is done. It is not what you think...

LMK when you make the trip; unsure if you’re going solo,,,or the old lady is riding w/you...I’d like to meet up with you somewhere & be a co-pilot :ugh2:
(That’s if I can get off work & pending your stay time). :tup:

Built motors = all new ball game
Good info on the research and conclusions

My thoughts on cam selection.
Everyone knows we have a limited selection of cams and then it is only for the exhaust side. They are not known to make great power levels on a NA car but for a boosted car you would use them for a different reason. To move the power under the curve around to be more suitable for your turbo selection. If you have larger turbo's you would want a cam selection that would move the torque more down in the lower rpm levels to help spool the turbo's and then to keep air moving up top and not fall off. Looking at the dyno graphs for the
JWT C1 cams we can see that it really moves the torque curve more down low. This would be an excellent choice for a turbo car with large turbo's (GT35's or larger). It would help to spool the turbo's quicker and reduce lag. I have selected the JWT C2 because my turbo's are in the middle. The biggest reason for me using these cams was stated in the thread about them. He stated that he doesn't have to downshift to pass a car. This to me was an eye opener. The one thing I can't stand about the power deliver of my car is it is flat between 2500 to 4000 rpm. If these cams can improved that area of the rpm range, I am all in. That is why I have selected these cams. So, on my dyno graphs I will be looking for a response between the 2500 and 4000 rpm area. Not sure how well they are going to work but we shall see. It's cheap to put them in when you are building an engine.

So what do you gain with exhaust cams? You gain drivability.

Here is a guy making 10psi of boost at 3500 rpm with AAM stage 1, 10:1 compression, and JWT C1 cams.

Spooler !!! Glad your back !!!

I have the JW2 exhaust cams installed ... along with the BW EFR 71/63 turbos.

Here's the DynoLog numbers from last October:

667.4 DynoLog RWHP = 780 on the DynoJet
545 DyonoLog RWTQ = 638 on the DynoJet
(The bottom graph is a conversion to DynoJet Numbers).

Here are 2 other factors that lowered these numbers,

1) The car was dyno'd (this time) with the M/T street slicks still on the car
2) I have the 3.357 FD from a 7AT installed (with Quaife LSD)

With the 3.357 I am addressing the wheel spin on launch and I will be able to shift into 2nd at 45'ish mph

This dyno session was to check new CJM massive I/C that was installed to address the heat soak issue with low boost on pump gas.

The car is still at MA-Motorsports with the delivery date pushed back to mid March.
The little issues have been addressed - and all that's left now is the RPM 6 point Roll Bar to arrive and be installed - oh, and that Turbo Smoke issue resolved ...

* Side Note here ... when they dyno'd my car they told me there was another Z in the shop with the FI v.2.5's being installed...they said it would make more power than mine...hope this helps :-)