Cjm is working on a solution to not have to run a closed deck or sleeve the block.

I don't think I need to run a closed deck block. With 18-19 psi of boost and stock compression I should be able to hit the number I want. Look at Streetz's dyno chart as a reference. The question is are my turbo's going to stay in their efficiency range. They should. The other question is will I be able to make that power easier with the JWT C2 cams. We have several unknowns here. Guess we will find out.

If you are building your motor why not do the closed deck just in case you want to turn up the boost? Over built is better built in my book!

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Nobody has hotrodz money

LMAO, if anybody does it is Spooler! A closed deck block is cheap compared to some of the other mods he is doing.

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Spooler gonna see those high boost numbers https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3535b37090.jpg
And be like:https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e85c481295.jpg


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I have a street corner in Savannah that pays for all this. Show a little leg, get paid. :)

If Daleon says I need it, then I will think about it. You gotta draw a line in the sand somewhere. As far as more later, I doubt it. I am doing everything I want to the first time. Cheaper that way.

Famous last words!!! You will be the only one I know that does not ask or want more after getting used to the power. You are already down the rabbit whole and there is no bottom just a bend or two....then down it goes again!



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:iagree:

:iagree:

You forget, I have been in this game a while. I have modded many vehicles. I know where I want to go and stay. It's safer that way and the money hole get's filled in unless something bad happens.

Rabbit hole = No bottom and bankruptcy. Black hole = Has bottom, but you get spaghettified going down. Don't know which one is worst.

No I have not forgotten and you sound like someone that is getting married for the forth time!!! Good luck with that!

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LOL, too funny. By the way, I am a member of BA. (Boostaoholics’ Anonymous) I just back from our weekly meeting.
I hear all kinds of not enough boost(power) stories. Looks like the monkey is on my back again. Ugg.

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I’m Jealous; I need to start a “Boosted-Bastards” thread... ;)

I need to find a support group too.

12 steps to bankruptcy. Buy a car and start modding. Each step gets more $$$

Carrillo Rod failures.

Common Piston Failures.

What a great video. Learned something new, now I have question I can ask

Yeah, good videos.
A question that I have (and probably tight lip info per engine builder) is ring gap setting.
As the oem VQ37VHR has a ring gap of .0091” on 1st & 2nd ring.
As the VQ isn’t normally boosted & looking over boosted recommendations of similar engines, such as a VR38DETT, ring gap setting on e85 is (bore x .005) 1st & second rings- up to 15lb boost & (bore x .006) 15-30lb. That’s (.018-.022) on 1st & 2nd rings.
Make you wonder how boosting stock bottom ends & making big power over long periods of time is capable...engine must be very forgiving.

I am looking for info on a closed deck block. The benefits and pitfalls. Maybe I can find something good here also.

There are few good videos on line. I did a search a couple of years ago. If nothing else there is a reason GTR motors are closed deck from the factory. Maintaining cylinder bore tolerances/block strength and heat dissipation are couple of reason in my memory serves me well this morning. Hopefully I'm not have one of my moments again lol.

Need phunk to chime in. He would have the answers most likely.

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I have built both a 9:1, and an 11:1 comp ratio engine for my car now. Spent 3 years running down the 3.7L open deck block record at 850whp on my 9:1 engine. I tried literally everything. Different head gaskets, thicknesses, gasket coatings, clamping loads, had the heads O-ringed(final engine was a culmination of the three.). 8 head gasket sets, 2 blocks, and 8 connecting rods later I called it quits July of ‘17; when I lost another head gasket set after the dyno in may. Finally broke down, and invested in a closed deck block. Wasn’t until I took a stone to my old deck surface that I realized the there indeed are very noticeable high and low spots that form from cylinder expansions that are happening under high boost pressures. At the end of the day I’m telling you, one memeber to another, I don’t care who says what or what they think they know; your car WILL blow head gaskets over 800whp if you choose not to support the cylinder from shifting in some shape or form. 1Life the dynosty built haltech car did it at 820whp which is why he had his engine rebuilt, and purposefully turned back to 780-790.

FYI Charles is not looking to push Justin’s built car without some sort of cylinder reinforcement(whether that be dowels, inserts, or a block fill time will tell); they are merely using Justin’s car as a test bed to run the GTR head bolts which are currently being used on R35s well into the 12-1300whp realm. Not too bad considering the set of 16 can be bought for less that $100.

That's some nasty gas cutting there. Wonder where the line was before needing cylinder reinforcement.

Rid3_Famous, that is exactly what I needed. Data. Guess I will be opting for a closed deck block.

It's insurance. Why take chances for your power level.

Rabbit hole.

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I think we are all interested in phunks experiment.

We have theories and ideas. None of it is worth more than anyone else's until it is accomplishing something.

I am not opposed to the closed deck conversion. I might prefer to try it with the support structure resting a bit below the deck rather than right at it.

I believe that there is a problem deeper in the block, literally. Cutaways of a VQ demonstrate IMHO some concerning lack of girth and doubt about its ability to hold its shape under extreme torsional loads. There is no limit to what can be done to address it, but the real question is, how little can we get away with?

I am getting 3 things from all of this.
One: There is a limit around 800hp that is causing a head gasket sealing problem.
Two: Several folks have had the issue but there has not been much talk on the forum
about it.
Three: I need to consider lowering my power goals for longevity/reliability.

I mean if we’re being honest there are several possible reasons we don’t hear much about it. 1st and foremost being the lack of cars in that power range. I would wager someone a good $1000 that there is, absolutely, no more than 20-25 800+whp z34/g37 VQ37 powered cars in the entirety of the world currently. The people who are there most of them likely tight lipped or shop builds(which often times leaves owners out of the loop if they aren’t familiar with engine building/failures). Two(which happened to be my case) no one wants to build this engine 10 times over, failure after failure, scratching your head wondering where the hell youre going wrong; when you’re doing everything the way it should be. Most people driven that far would probably just give up anyway. Another reason being the shops that are aware of this don’t want to share the secret. If you’re always giving away what you know then it becomes increasingly hard to stay one step ahead. Sounds selfish, but it’s business. I happen to have learned the hard way whilst staying dedicated. I would just hate to see someone else wind up on the same path, when for a small fee of $1500(which was about the average cost of each of the 7 or 8 initial times I rebuilt the motor), you can have an insurance that 110% prevents you from this. My high compression 930whp RJM closed deck engine was running like a champ when it let go, and there’s not a doubt in my mind at all that it would still be going strong had I not suffered severe con rod failures that led to a total loss of the engine.

I agree with "Tight-Lip" on above statement,,,been going on for well over 1/2 century in engine builds.

So what are you doing now? Giving up or going to do it one more time at a lower power level?
Thanks for the heads up. I would be aggravated to say the least.

All I have to say is "I am in good hands". I am sticking with the plan. The car makes what it makes.