Car is doing exactly what was expected with the upgrades done. Some data is an eye opener. We shall see what happens.

This is not a 8hr tuning job. This is a 6 or 7 day tuning job. Tune has to be done from scratch. There is no base tune. It is a timely process.

Don't be expecting big numbers out of my car. I want to drive it and enjoy it for a while. So if you are expecting me to push it on the dyno I am not going to do that. This build has been about efficiency and reliability. I can always turn it up later at an event. I won't get a solid tune on the dyno at that level anyway so why push it.

LMFAO..........1128 and it's not a finished tune. :tup:

I grew up driving these. I like this guy at Z Car Garage. LOL

Rob at Z car garage is the MAN. Always enjoy the videos that he is in.


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We all know Shewantsthezee had a problem and fingers were pointed as to why. They were actually just a guess. Without monitoring EMAP and EGT's per cylinder you won't know what the actual cause of the failure was. If you have a EMAP sensor at the turbo you will be able to calculate when the turbine wheel is done and pressure starts to back up. What you won't know is if the actual turbo manifolds or exhaust manifolds are causing the problem. By monitoring EGT's it will tell you when you have a restriction in the exhaust manifolds. The EMAP sensor may or may not catch this issue.

What is Drive pressure. Drive pressure is how much energy it takes to push the turbine wheel of the turbo. How do you measure it. You can calculate the Drive Pressure ratio by the following. EMAP/MAP. The ideal pressure for a drag engine is a 1:1 ratio but for a street car this is not very fun to drive. So where is an acceptable level. On a street car, that is normally no greater than a 1.5 to 1 ratio. So, my car last time it was tuned, the max boost was at 29psi. My car stopped making power at that level so I know the Drive Pressure ratio was at least 2 to 1. 58psi at the EMAP and 29 PSI in the intake manifold. So I had 58psi of pressure from the turbine wheel of the turbo all the way back to the cylinder head. Well, that's a big problem. That's like trying to cram 58psi of boost down the intake. The VQ won't handle it and it torches the headgasket. My head bolts were still torqued to the proper TQ. That means they did not stretch under high boost but I did get #4's fire ring. So, if you are monitoring EMAP, keep the boost no greater than a 1.5 to 1 ratio and the engine will be happy as long as your headgaskets and headbolts can handle the cylinder pressure.

All the big platforms have had development programs. They use standalones to collect all the data so they can make proper decisions on where the limit is. In the GTR, AMS and T1 lead the way. The information then trickled down to all the smaller shops and the race for high HP VR38's was born. That's why they can use Ecutek to tune the cars. The limits have already been found and the formula for success is known. Well, we didn't get this in the VQ world. It's been this way since the 350z days. Hope these post were informative.

Some people appreciate the information I post. I have come to the conclusion that it far outweighs the haters. I will post from time to time again.

For the turbo map calculations.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/03...ompressor-map/

My car made 629whp at 12psi of boost. Timing was conservative. I do not know the TQ numbers. I was just told the whp numbers. It's right where it should be on Ignite Red. I actually did a little better. Before when Vince tuned it I was 605whp at 12psi of boost.

Oh yeah, the 1.06AR Tial exhaust housing were no big deal. The engine ate them. Gobbled them up like candy. I had .82AR Tials before.

We shall see what it does next week. Once we start turning it up a bit I will know how the upgrades are doing. If all is going well it should make over 800whp at 17psi of boost. I have my fingers crossed. If it does it, that will be a good sign of what is to come. I will make more power with less boost and that is what I am after. It needs to add 30whp for each psi of boost we add.

You want to see what Detonation looks like on pump E85. Here ya go.

This is good info. I know I have questioned you in the past on being transparent, and I respect the choices you have made given how much you have invested in time and money, but this information is greatly appreciated. Particularly as it relates to the heads. Thank you.

I came from the diesel side of things from having fun with my truck. I was looking at installing compound turbos. You tune the Secondary small turbo's wastegate to open up and dump all the excess exhaust to the primary turbo when the Drive pressure ratio is around 1.00 to 1.25 ratio to get the best performance. The one thing I didn't know is you can use the EGT's per cylinder to determine when the exhaust manifold becomes a restriction.

Yes, I am monitoring EGT's per cylinder this time along with EMAP and several other things.

Some more info.

What additional sensors did I add.

0il Pressure
Fuel Pressure
Coolant pressure
2- EMAP sensors
6-EGT sensors
4- IAT sensors (2 before intercooler and two before the intake).
2- Lamda AFR sensors

I think that's it. I may have forgot something. LOL I would have added 2 turbo compressor speed sensors, but my compressor housings are not drilled for them.

Good info.

Did the same thing on my build except EMAP. I'm going to put those on later. 8EGT sensors on my build has been VERY helpful. I was able to see a cylinder drop under boost and then trace a plug issue quickly.

Welp, one of my new Z1 coilpacks took a dump. I installed them when SOHO had the car. Replaced that today. EGT per cylinder for the win. It would dump at 16psi of boost and misfire. I tried them, get factory Nissan ones.

My NA Z thanks you :tiphat:

The saga continues with the crappy Z1 coilpacks. They are absolute junk. Still missing under boost at 16psi. Sparkplug gap is real tight at .19. I am ordering a brand new set of coilpacks from Nissan and opening the gap back up to .25.

The EGT's are catching the miss. The offending cylinder is 400 deg lower than the others. It has moved to a new cylinder this time. It's easy to see in the logs. Always has to be something that is a challenge when tuning.

Jesus, the tags are rough in here. lol. Man, those EGT sensors are putting in work! I'm surprised that you put Z1 coil packs on... well, I guess you now know.

Tag- Fags whatever.

The 2nd coilpack died today on a different cylinder. Those coilpacks barely have 1000 miles on them. They are just flat out junk.

We'll get there once this BS is sorted out. I have to laugh about it.

Try using these: EFIHARDWARE ship internationally in a couple of days

https://www.efihardware.com/products...r-coil-hitachi

We will have a new set tomorrow. Not wasting any time.

I am enjoying the Emtron Standalone with all the extra sensors. It makes life easy. Pull the logs and know real quick what is wrong.

Well, it is not just me. Seb has had several sets dump on cars he has worked on.

Any reason you went with the Z1 vs R35 coilpacks?

I did that two years ago when they first came out. Figured I would give them a try. Welp, that didn't work out. I am not going to VR38 coils. I am going back to stock. The test that were done on the VQ37Vhr coilpacks and VR38 coilpacks there was not much difference. They were both excellent. The video is post in this thread somewhere from Motive Video on Youtube. They tested a bunch of coilpacks.

The 370z and GTR coils are equal.

New Nissan coilpacks going in. Be back at it next week sometime.

The car is back up and running with no missing issues. Factory Nissan coilpacks for the win. Be back at it next week. Was checking the tune at 17psi of boost on the dyno.

Don't waste your time/money trying to install R35 coilpacks in the 370z. They are the same, the only difference is the stalk length. Dwell tables for all 3.

https://www.platinumracingproducts.c...dwell-settings