Thanks !!! Maybe we could start our own section here called The Gee'Z'ers
lol on the rabbit hole - newest turn in the tunnel is the CJM Custom Welded Stainless Steel Turbo Headers.
Found it right here on this thread...:yawn:...hard to say no - but I gotta

... I think I was a young Buck once ... got a lot of stories under my belt

The one thing about tubular turbo exhaust manifolds is longevity. They have a tendency to crack over time. If Phunk did a perfect job designing them they will work great. If not, they will crack. I keep waiting on more real world use to see how they do. I hope they work great. They will help the larger turbo's spool up quicker and cut down on the turbo lag. I have thought about them with the a set of Garrett GTX3076r's. LOL

Well here's some 11:1 compression for you ;)
https://i.imgur.com/N3IqfUI.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/e6eS6RA.jpg

And some Stage 3 Xona XR 65•64
https://i.imgur.com/PueOf7K.jpg

Wife said to get the FI Stage 2.5 turbo's and be done with it. Such a good women. LOL Not sure what I am going to do. She is making things difficult on me. Such a bad problem to have, right. :)

Does she have a twin sister my age ?

Sorry to say she does not.

Go for broke! :tiphat:

Well, thanks to Streetz (Justin) and Phunk, I am ordering the new Fast Intentions Stage 2.5 turbo's which are similar to Garrett GT3076r turbo's. The Xona Rotor turbo's will have a billet compressor wheel and race cover along with the Tial exhaust housing.

If you only had a motor to bolt them to. :stirthepot:;)

sigh,...:crying:...there goes my last hope for happiness

It will get done. Good machine shops are hard to come by and if they are OCD, everybody flocks to them.
Is what it is. I will take a long wait over a "OH Crap the motor just popped", any day of the week and twice
on Sunday.

My 2nd wife is a keeper. She says that boys need their toys. :tup:

:iagree:

Note to self or anyone else that is doing crazy like me in the future. Get your engine to the machine shop when you place your twin turbo kit order. I have done some checking around and the reality is all of the GREAT shops have a long wait on an engine build. OCD machine shops don't grow on trees and folks flock to them like crazy. It is the same from East coast to West coast.

This thread is dead. NO more updates.

Spooler; You gonna have one of the most powerful ~Z’s~ on the road,,,you can’t kill your thread :ugh2:
Everyone jokes around about stuff; as you know my current situation...as I don’t have a pot to pizz in or a window to throw it out of...when it comes to a Hotrod :icon14: .....keep this thing going; I’m definitely gonna have my garage done before I build up my next one...& I’ll let you come over & help :tup:

Ahhhhh come on man. We won't tease you anymore. At least from me.

Don't give up now ... your helping us to deal with our builds !!!
Here's an excerpt from Kevin at Fast Intentions (I had contacted him about the turbo smoke problem and was fishing for options - He mentioned you in his response knowing that you were using MA-Motorsports for your build)

"Thanks for sharing Spoolers thread, I’ve come across it a few times. He’s got a promising build in the works right now with MA-M."

Go for it - those v.2.5's will kick it up a notch. I think you have exercised wisdom in planning and executing your build.

Bob G
:tiphat:

I will think about it. You guys have to understand, I need to keep my head on straight. It is not MA's fault the machine shop is backed up. No amount of fussing and cussing is going to make the process go faster. It will only hurt my relationship with them and that is important for me not to do. I want to be a customer they enjoy working on my stuff and talking with me. Picking at me all the time about it not being done is not cool. It is stressful enough. I don't need any additional aggravation. I get enough of that at my Job.

:iagree:
And we still Love You!
:tiphat:

:iagree:
I feel your pain on waiting. I've ordered stuff and they tell me there is a 18 month lead time. :eek: You suck it up and go with it. What can you do. Look at the guys waiting for FI exhausts. Who knew that FI would have such a back log on it. My ForgeLine rims took 3 months. And they was made in Ohio.

Machine shops are always a hold up. I generally tell people to expect at least 6 months, even if quoted 6 weeks. Short block machine work is what kept our fast car off the road for the entirety of 2018. We broke my 1 rule of engine builds: never build the engine that is in the car unless you are ok with not driving that car for a year. Justin really wanted to use his original block and crank though... but that came with the sacrifice of not having his Z for the entire year when he could have been driving it.

Anyways, definitely dont let it stress you out! Think of it of as a season or two less wear and tear on the rest of the car.

lol ... because of the lag time in my build I now have a very low mileage 2009 'Z'

I was lucky enough to have Daelen lead the way. I bought a junkyard long block and that is what they are building. I am still driving my car thank goodness. I will build my existing motor a year or two after this one. I want to see if we have some more data on how to deal with the open deck block since more folks are looking into this issue now.

Alright, I will start posting again. If you poot-heads start razing me again I will clam up like a clam shell.

We'll get the jaws of life and pry that shell open. :rofl2:

Posting some of my thoughts about why I changed to the FI 2.5 turbo's.

My personal goals for my car are different than most. I want to make the most whp with the lowest amount of boost I can make. Boost is just a measure of restriction. The restriction can be in the intake side, the exhaust side, or a combination of both. Someone pointed out to me that I will not make my whp goals with the FI 2.0 turbo's (No names mentioned, you know who you are). That was Ok with me but I wanted to figure out why. I started searching around for as many dyno graphs as I could find with the FI 2.0 turbo's. The only problem I found was that most folks that had the 2.0 turbo's didn't have a built engine. That means the tuner was trying to limit the TQ on the engine down low. So the data would be skewed. I then studied the dyno graphs of Justin and Phunk's build. Hmm, interesting. At 4k rpm he was at 10psi of boost just like the FI 2.0 kit. Seb was trying to limit the TQ on his tune also due to his stock block. To me I consider this to mean the lag/response difference was very minimal. So now the question is why not use a GT3076 turbo (FI 2.5 turbo's) instead of the GT2868 (FI 2.0 turbo's). The answer to that is simple, cost. I already had the FI 2.0 turbo's that I originally ordered with my kit because, at the time, I was going the build the motor at a later date. So, why did I decide to upgrade anyway. Good question that I will talk about at a later date.

Hmmmm. Interesting thought process. I can see where you're going with this.

I'll drop the bomb later. I may wait until my build is done. It is not what you think...

LMK when you make the trip; unsure if you’re going solo,,,or the old lady is riding w/you...I’d like to meet up with you somewhere & be a co-pilot :ugh2:
(That’s if I can get off work & pending your stay time). :tup:

Built motors = all new ball game
Good info on the research and conclusions

My thoughts on cam selection.
Everyone knows we have a limited selection of cams and then it is only for the exhaust side. They are not known to make great power levels on a NA car but for a boosted car you would use them for a different reason. To move the power under the curve around to be more suitable for your turbo selection. If you have larger turbo's you would want a cam selection that would move the torque more down in the lower rpm levels to help spool the turbo's and then to keep air moving up top and not fall off. Looking at the dyno graphs for the
JWT C1 cams we can see that it really moves the torque curve more down low. This would be an excellent choice for a turbo car with large turbo's (GT35's or larger). It would help to spool the turbo's quicker and reduce lag. I have selected the JWT C2 because my turbo's are in the middle. The biggest reason for me using these cams was stated in the thread about them. He stated that he doesn't have to downshift to pass a car. This to me was an eye opener. The one thing I can't stand about the power deliver of my car is it is flat between 2500 to 4000 rpm. If these cams can improved that area of the rpm range, I am all in. That is why I have selected these cams. So, on my dyno graphs I will be looking for a response between the 2500 and 4000 rpm area. Not sure how well they are going to work but we shall see. It's cheap to put them in when you are building an engine.

So what do you gain with exhaust cams? You gain drivability.

Here is a guy making 10psi of boost at 3500 rpm with AAM stage 1, 10:1 compression, and JWT C1 cams.

Spooler !!! Glad your back !!!

I have the JW2 exhaust cams installed ... along with the BW EFR 71/63 turbos.

Here's the DynoLog numbers from last October:

667.4 DynoLog RWHP = 780 on the DynoJet
545 DyonoLog RWTQ = 638 on the DynoJet
(The bottom graph is a conversion to DynoJet Numbers).

Here are 2 other factors that lowered these numbers,

1) The car was dyno'd (this time) with the M/T street slicks still on the car
2) I have the 3.357 FD from a 7AT installed (with Quaife LSD)

With the 3.357 I am addressing the wheel spin on launch and I will be able to shift into 2nd at 45'ish mph

This dyno session was to check new CJM massive I/C that was installed to address the heat soak issue with low boost on pump gas.

The car is still at MA-Motorsports with the delivery date pushed back to mid March.
The little issues have been addressed - and all that's left now is the RPM 6 point Roll Bar to arrive and be installed - oh, and that Turbo Smoke issue resolved ...

* Side Note here ... when they dyno'd my car they told me there was another Z in the shop with the FI v.2.5's being installed...they said it would make more power than mine...hope this helps :-)

The N/A stock motors do go flat between 2500 and 4000 rpm ... You can definitely tune that out when you go boosted.

I think the JWT C2 cams are better for us. My understanding the guy had FI 3.5 turbo's. I would have used the JWT C1 cams on that engine. You can see the torque curve in the video. It's flat and comes on hard down low. Too much for my liking. He will struggle with traction down low for sure. Looking at your graphs the 3.357 is the reason your dyno graphs read low. Doesn't matter if the car is not in the correct rpm range for the quarter mile. The less shifting is also better for 1/4 mile. A 3.5 diff would be better for you I beat. MA can fix that up for you also with a quick change diff and custom subframe. LOL

The machine shop is working on my engine now. They were honing the cylinders Tuesday last week. Hopefully it will be done by the end of the month. I don't want to travel up that way until after New Years anyway. Way too many people on the road. I will do it if they call and want the car.

My worry is the weather. MA likes to drive test them on the road to double check the tune, etc. This will be a challenge in the dead of winter. Finding good days to do so will be tough.

This build is all new territory for me and I've been making decisions these past 5 years based on research and the technology available at the time.
Tried my best, but it's still an educated guess tho'.

I did consider the 3.5 FD (from the 350z) but it was too close to the 3.692 OEM gears in the car... so I went with the 3.357.
As it was - the OEM 3.692 gears were just about useless launching the car.

I did check out that video you posted earlier - looks like Dynosty did a great job on the build and tune.
One of the things I look back on and regret a little is not going with the 10:1CR.
I had 9.5:1 in the IPP built motor that AAM managed to grenade.
Daelen talked me into going back to the OEM 11:1 CR for their build.
Right now I'm going to live with what I have - been way too long as it is.

The DynoLog Sheet does show a hump in the Torque curve at 4300 rpm, and flat spot in the neighborhood of 5000 rpm.
Will have to see how that works out in real life.
I'm sure/hopng it can be corrected if needed.