CJM (Justin's) drag build
 

As most of you know we (phunk and I) took the 370z stock engine to the next level. With a best dyno 818whp and 9.91 @142 in the quarter. Our goals have been raised by doing a motor build this winter. I will post up most of what we do to my engine build and chassis setup. Our goal is to push the Z chassis as far and reliable as possible. Yes reliable, our goal is to figure out a solution for those 1000whp+ builds and obtain OEM equipment. Some may have seen we posted that we are adapting a OEM VR heads bolts to my VHR block. This is a very complicated process that is on its way to getting done.

Charles and I will use this thread to keep people up to date with our build process. Look forward to pushing my car hard this year.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9f65d3e306.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

^^^^ Country boy..... LOL

Dope. Can’t wait to see what’s in store. You and dynasty are going to have some
Nasty builds this coming year.

:yum:

:leghump:

:woot:

:postwhore:

:tup:

That's right -- Let the 370z community show the world v6's can be super powerful too! :D

.5 seconds slower than the Demon, super amazing!

That's awesome! Keep up the good work guys.

Subd

suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuub'd

Be sure & install a Chute on the rear; as in the event you manage to break in the 8’s....you’re probably gonna be trapping 160 range.
Good Luck & excited about this build!
:)

INSANE!!!! Can’t wait to see what else u guys come up with....

I will do a 10pt with chute when needed. First goal is to get the car running and everything perfect. I'm not in too big of a rush. Once the car is seeing high trap speeds I can take it to a chassis shop.

Do you have a video just driving normal showing when the turbo's light? I am thinking about going from a 28 frame turbo to a 30 frame. I would like to see when the turbo's spool up.

Nevermind, I can see enough from the dyno graph to figure out what is going on.

What tires are you using to planet all that power to the ground?

Turbo spool is instant, you wont notice much if any difference from 28's to 30's. I ramp my boost in slow on purpose to keep the torque down, so the graph is miss leading.

I use MT Bias ply 28x10.5w

I would change to a 30 frame but it is too late. Oh well. It should be plenty to meet my HP goal.

That should be plenty enough to plant your power to the ground. Your suspension set up would be a concern though.

just slap on a set of kw v3 and u good haha

The stock springs and ride height worked really well for us. We do have a drag shock that really helps the cars squat and stay low after launch. We will be offering this product one of these days (cough couch phunk) I would highly recommend leaving the car at stock ride height. The Z has a really aggressive compression camber issue when lowered.

I had the Vance Drag Racing Coilovers installed at MA-Motorsports (Daelen Snow's) recommendation.
Have yet to take possession of my car but did get a chance to test drive it before final tweaks.
With a little adjusting here and there you can get a good plant and dial out the wheel hop
The car does ride nice as it is ...
Will let you know how that all works out in the Spring Season at Island Dragway here in NJ.

Vance Coilovers
 

MA-Motorsports politely informed me that the drag racing coilovers I had inquired about weren't the answer I was looking for.

They did educate me and pointed me towards a custom designed and manufactured coilover specifically for my drag racing requirements.
The coilovers are made by Vance - are special ordered and tailored to the specifications of my car.

They come in 2 levels of design and price.
The single tube version is only a few $ more than the other generic ones I had asked about.
The double tube version is fully adjustable for track conditions and you can actually dial out wheel hop.
It's also double the price.

MMA will install camber arms and set up the suspension and 4 wheel alignment with corner balance
MMA also offers a service where they will go to the track with you and dial in the car for you if you'd like.
This is the level of service and proficiency I'm looking for.

How much longer do we have to wait before your car is up and running?

What's the benefit of using VR heads instead of VQ35HR?

Who is using VR heads?

Read OP quick and it looks like he's just using the VR head bolts nvm

Because if you use the VQ35HR heads you will need to run a standalone ECU and it is a challenge to get everything working in the car like it is suppose to.

He was on a completely stock engine.

Justin's car isn't expected to run well into spring 2019. There is a lot of fabricating that needs to be done to build the custom intercooler and piping system, along with a custom coolant expansion tank setup. This thread was created about a year prematurely. :rofl2: He just put the completed built engine back in the car maybe 2 months ago. Its got a ways to go.

His engine is using typical VQ37VHR cylinder heads, but yes we did fasten them to the engine with factory Nissan VR38DETT head bolts. This required a whole lot of custom machining.

How much more torque can you get out of the VR38DETT head bolts compared to a vq37 L19 head studs? Does anyone know what size the VR head bolts are.. 3/8" or 1/2" dia.?

Stock Nissan bolts are TTY (torque to yield) fasteners, thus are not tightened to a torque spec. It is a different type of strategy for fasteners. After a uniform 30# is set they are tightened an additional 270 degrees (135+135).

VR fasteners are 1mm larger thread diameter than VQ fasteners. M12 vs M11.

Things that make you go hmm.

For what it’s worth, the stock VQ fasteners spec is 30# + 190 degrees (95 + 95).

That’s 80 degrees more rotation in the VR fastener over the VQ. They are both 1.25mm thread pitch, so that simplifies the pondering a little.

Being the same thread pitch is the only reason we could do it without going even larger then bringing it back down with thread inserts. Drilling up 1mm doesn’t clear out the original threads. But since they are the same pitch, we could carefully start the m12 tap in what was left of the original threads to oversized them just 1mm. It takes great care.

Also, the bolts are MUCH longer.

Then making them fit the heads was a whole other adventure. We made a fixture for mounting the heads into the CNC for machining programs to be run on them.

I’m over here just trying to get a twin pump

phunk thinks on another level when it comes to the Z. :tup:

Did someone say something about twin pump?!?!

Charles!!!!!!!!

yep, there's 2 of 'em

Por que