Originally Posted by Chuck33079 Something like that would be a good option. I just see too many people put full cages in their cars without giving a thought to what
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07-06-2018, 04:43 PM | #196 (permalink) |
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A full cage is for a full racecare...track only!
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07-06-2018, 07:28 PM | #197 (permalink) |
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If they are going to take it and if the price to buy it back after their check given to me is too much then I will decline the totaling of the car and take car home and attempt to sell it whole.
Because a lot of the parts are still new, and taking into consideration the damage costs on it at the moment, which id probably about 8k I would estimate, Id sell it for 30 - 34k depending on certain minor factors (obv im open to negotiate). But I think $30k - $34k is fair for the car as is.
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07-06-2018, 08:00 PM | #198 (permalink) |
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Dude, $34k would be a stretch for it if it was running. Take a look at what boosted zs have sold for. It's depressing.
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07-06-2018, 08:02 PM | #199 (permalink) |
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You will do better parting it out
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07-06-2018, 08:20 PM | #200 (permalink) |
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Only said that price cause everything on there is really low mileage xD
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07-06-2018, 08:24 PM | #201 (permalink) |
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maybe but its a hassle id rather discount the entire thing if i sell it whole plus it comes with the tune...which the tuning i was doing on this car is phenomenal.
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07-07-2018, 11:18 AM | #202 (permalink) |
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Not relevant. Mods don't add a whole lot of value and it's been wrecked hard enough to blow airbags. Either you'll sell it at a substantial loss or you can get most of your mods sold off and stop the bleeding. If that doesn't work, fix it or you can buy another Z and swap the parts over.
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07-07-2018, 11:55 AM | #203 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Okay, the engine nevertheless is still an engine, aftermarket or not. It has 875 miles and that's pretty much like a brand new car. The only parts that have a moderate amount of miles is the body and the interior. Almost everything else that makes the car run is new lol. So aftermarket or not, the main and critical parts are still fresh. Also, I did some research on how insurance is calculated in California and found that it works of off the TLF (Total loss formula). (Market price of current condition after accident) + (Total costs of repairs) > (Actual Cash Value of vehicle before Accident). If the left side is greater or equal to the right side, my car gets totalled. If not, its returned to me.
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07-07-2018, 03:51 PM | #204 (permalink) |
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A lot of the insurance companies go by %. Normally 10% of value. If the repair is less then 10% of the value of the vehicle, then the vehicle gets fixed. If the repair is greater then 10%. The vehicle gets totaled.
My brother in law at one time worked in a junk yard. When they got cars in. They would look at the insurance papers, the year of vehicle, mileage, and blue book price. If the vehicle was what they call a 10%er. It would get fixed with a R-title. The junk yard made a nice profit of of them. The vehicle was totaled by the insurance but just had enough damage on it to go over the % rule. The junk yard had all the parts needed to fix it usually.
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07-07-2018, 04:24 PM | #205 (permalink) | |
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California and 20 other states do not go off a set ratio. They go off of what I stated in my previous post. 2 states go off of a 100% ratio. Then from there some smaller states are like down to even as bad as 40 or 50% but I have not heard of 10%. That is a hard to believe number unless maybe you are i. a tiny city or something https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.car...otal-loss/amp/ TLF states (21): Alaska, Arizona, California, Connecticut, Delaware, Georgia, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, Maine, Massachusetts, Montana, New Jersey, New Mexico, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, South Dakota, Utah, Vermont and Washington. 100 percent threshold (2): Colorado and Texas 80 percent threshold (3): Florida, Missouri and Oregon 75 percent threshold (16): Alabama, Kansas, Kentucky, Louisiana, Maryland, Michigan, Nebraska, New Hampshire, New York, North Carolina, North Dakota, South Carolina, Tennessee, Virginia, West Virginia and Wyoming. 70 percent threshold (5): Arkansas, Indiana, Minnesota, Mississippi and Wisconsin. 65 percent threshold (1): Nevada 60 percent threshold (1): Oklahoma 50 percent threshold (1): Iowa
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07-07-2018, 04:42 PM | #206 (permalink) |
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That article doesn't really give you a lot of info.
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07-07-2018, 04:44 PM | #207 (permalink) |
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what info are you seeking that isnt already explained lol
Do you have a reputable article stating where most insurance companies total a car if repairs exceed 10%? Thats extremely hard to believe...making an average 20k car totaled if 2k repairs was needed >.<
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07-07-2018, 05:01 PM | #208 (permalink) |
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It doesn't go into detail. Just gives you a general idea.
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07-07-2018, 05:06 PM | #209 (permalink) |
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okay what detail are you looking for though.
like what info do you want to know that isnt on there its pretty plain simple and clear to me if you ask me. i mean to be fair, your 10% claim isnt very informative either other than speaking from your own experience...x.X
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07-09-2018, 08:39 PM | #210 (permalink) |
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Update:
Car is set to be totaled, but they are just waiting on the callback from the totaling company to do a final evaluation of the vehicle if so. Assuming the vehicle is totaled, and how I can use the money (or not use) that they pay out (estimated to be about 18k), I may or may not part out the car. I am hoping they will allow me to use the money to (The Ideal Situation): 1) Buy back the car 2) Repair the car 3) Anything leftover if any at all, I can use to expedite the car payments I mean I'm already paying off the car monthly anyway, so why does it need to be such a rush now to pay it off? I would much rather just repair it, buy it back, and then anything extra just use to expedite the loan. But I dont know if triple AAA will allow me to do that or not ): Everyone i've spoken to so far doesn't know either...
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