[Build Thread] -- Journey to 700+ WHP [Supercharger]

[cupcakez]

Originally Posted by ReflectingG0d

Dont even bother, just get it fixed locally. Time is money too, and if given the opportunity he will happily waste both.

The mechanic shop is going to finish pulling out the engine either tomorrow or Wed.

Only 1 person working on it. so the full engine swap + added additional upgrades will probably be done by the end of next week haha
Ill keep you all posted

[cupcakez]

Update on Engine Status:

Lol. My mechanic said this about my engine:

So just a heads up, a lot of this stuff we're gonna want to take to the machine shop to have hot tanked.
We're finding metal everywhere!
Inside the intake manifold as well
*No the manifolds are fine just metal scraps and shavings everywhere inside

The way the pcv system works it pushes in oil vapor back into the intake which then turns back into liquid, so the intake manifold and piping is oily (perfectly normal) and all the metal sticks to the oil inside.

Hot tank is like high pressure very hot steaming water with some chemical additives.

[cupcakez]

Aftermath of what the old engine looks like and how horrendous the damage dealt is.

Lower oil pan is a soup full of scrap metal & a valve LOL.

I couldn't upload the pics directly from my phone for some reason.

http://imgur.com/a/SRtwnbF

You can see a crack and a hole from what the rod did:
http://imgur.com/0CNwAAt

I also was recommended to purchase a brand new OEM timing chain kit, so I did -- Mechanic said with this high profile of a build he recommended a brand new timing chain kit since he has seem them fail in other Zs before.

I also had to buy a brand new OEM Gasket Kit for the manifolds and such.

[cupcakez]

*OP Thread is updated -- at the bottom of the post, you will see images of some of the horrendous damage from the aftermath after the rod exploded*

Check them out guys!
It's terrible XD

*Also updated timeline, for those of you interested in how things are going lately! Updated to date!*

I try my best not to leave any good / bad detail out. That way when people read it, they can get an unbias point of view on how the build journey went.

[Amaterazu]

Good luck to you and your journey...
I hope your block does not blow up like other IPP blocks have.

It sounds like Kyle from IPP has really good customer service though from your experience.
It could be because your build is very expensive and that his name is behind that block, so he wants to make sure it is utmost taken care of on his part.
But it is good to see that he has very nice customer service.

Sounds like you are getting close though.

Sub'd!

[cupcakez]

Images of the A2A install that was done today!

(Yes this means the engine is fully in there, and that my baby will be ready to fire up tomorrow!!! Just a few things missing)

--> I spend the entire day at my mechanic's shop Affinity Performance and he installs the A2A kit. We ran into a few issues but it was quickly solved with the help of TopgunZ support as well as KowKow's support. It could not have been finished without their help today. One issue we ran into was replacing the jackshaft supercharger 3.2" stock pulleys with a 3.0" and a 3.47" using the same belt. This was no beuno. It was found that custom spacers were needed as well as a slightly longer belt -- as the total area for the stock belt is fitted to about 6.4" with +/- of like .2 inches or so. We ended up taking TopgunZ advice and not using the 3.47" pulley but only using the 3.0" pulley paired with the 3.0" pulley and keeping the stock idler pulley as well. According to Topz this should bring in about 13 psi max with the full 928 upgrade package for my V3 blower as well, and the idler pulley on the serpentine side. TopgunZ said if I wanted to make more power then I would have to either take off the filter on the blower to make ~16psi or...instead of dealing with custom spacers and a new belt to make the 3.47" fit, just use a 2.85" SC pulley as well as a 3" idler pulley paired with the current 3.0" SC pulley to make more PSI. I loved that idea and I will definitely document that for future reference when I do decide to make more PSI! <--

--> The next issue we ran into was deleting the front bumper support because of the brand new intercooler that came with the kit. It was found that to put it back on we would need to modify things but I chose to just leave it off. <--

--> Issue #3: We had a question about the PCV delete and how that would affect or not affect the engine in the long run. I read on the g37 forum that the PCV delete is not healthy for the engine but there was no explanation given. My tuner said it wasn't healthy for the engine either. Maybe I will just install a special vacuum line just to circumvent the PCV delete issue, if needed at all in the future. Topz said it was fine since it was vented into the atmosphere. But I don't know, since I'm hearing all kinds of things from people I respect, I will try to do further research about this topic! <--

--> Issue #4: We found that as far as the overflow tank (reservoir tank), we have to either relocate the stock stillen SC overflow tank or use the stock stillen overflow tank and make a custom bracket for it since the tabs were deleted off for when the SC kit was initially installed. <--

--> Issue #5: Not a big one at all as soon as TopGunz supported us throughout the process with an answer to our question. Our question was how the heck do we fit the tiny filter into the tiny space on the blower??? Well, he said you put the filter on the blower AND THEN install the blower into the vehicle into the designated spot. Otherwise it is impossible to fit into that space. He also noted that each time you replace the filter, the blower needs to be removed which is fine. <--

--> As of today, there remains a few things left to do for the vehicle to be fully ready to fire up and all upgrades installed:
(1) Install Fresh O2 Sensors
(2) Install e85 Zeitronix Kit (even though I won't be using it until way later, might as well get it installed now)
(3) Replace rear tires with the MT 305/35/19 Street S/S tires! *Super Sticky & Soft compound!*
(4) Add all necessary fluids into the car (OEM Coolant, Oil, Supercharger Oil - 4oz, etc)
(5) Put the High Pressure Radiator cap on!
(6) Install 4 Bar Omni Sensor (If he didn't do that already, not sure) -- necessary for the A2A kit
(7) Hook up the battery
(8) Brand New VVEL RH & LH break in mechanical procedure since we don't have a console unit to do it for us xD

After all those things it would be fully ready to put a base tune on which will be sent to me later today / early tomorrow.
My tune is from Eugene (ByThaBay forum user).
I will keep everyone updated!! (Yes this was also stated in the OP thread but I know not everyone reads long threads...haha) I just am so happy I want people to know!

[TopgunZ]

Glad you are nearing the end and its getting fired up tomorrow!

On issue #2. Are you talking about the bumper support or the hood latch support? The hood latch support is a small metal piece about 5 inches long. The bumper support is a giant compressed Styrofoam log.

On #3. All other forced induction kits delete the PCV and run breather filters to atmosphere like I suggest. The only reason stillen has it recirculating back into the system is to pass CARB.

On #4. You stated the use of stillen tank as an only option but the best option is to use the Factory overflow tank in the factory location.

I am not a huge fan of the way the 45* coupler is coming off your intercooler. I know it can be tricky dialing that Y pipe in to fit just right (but much easier than routing turbo piping all over the place) , but Its possible. Cant you clock the Y pipe clockwise about an inch? That should alleviate that small bend in your 45*.

[turtle64b]

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

On #4. You stated the use of stillen tank as an only option but the best option is to use the Factory overflow tank in the factory location.

I am not a huge fan of the way the 45* coupler is coming off your intercooler. I know it can be tricky dialing that Y pipe in to fit just right (but much easier than routing turbo piping all over the place) , but Its possible. Cant you clock the Y pipe clockwise about an inch? That should alleviate that small bend in your 45*.

Completely agree with Topz on the coolant reservoir. Buuuuuutttt if you choose not to use it and its the pressurized version, I'd be happy to buy it from you .

With the couplers, put some windex or a tiny bit of soapy water where you connect the coupler. That will allow it to move much more freely while you get everything loose-connected. It will allow you to maneuver out any kinks and then tighten everything down. The "lube" will dry, no big deal. That's what I did to ensure I didn't have any kinks in mine.

[TopgunZ]

Originally Posted by turtle64b

Completely agree with Topz on the coolant reservoir. Buuuuuutttt if you choose not to use it and its the pressurized version, I'd be happy to buy it from you .

With the couplers, put some windex or a tiny bit of soapy water where you connect the coupler. That will allow it to move much more freely while you get everything loose-connected. It will allow you to maneuver out any kinks and then tighten everything down. The "lube" will dry, no big deal. That's what I did to ensure I didn't have any kinks in mine.

This is very true. Windex makes that process a ton easier and the coupler should slip itself into fitment. Only problem is that Im sure you have buttoned her up and ready to fire.

[cupcakez]

edit all fixed love you topgunz <3

[cupcakez]

06/22/2018 Update


As we were finishing up the last touches on the Z engine rebuild, we ran into a few issues again that I want to share in case anyone else runs into them for any reason!

(1) We had to check the transmission fluid levels to make sure they were good to go by pumping more than the maximum amount of tranny fluid into the tranny. The procedure was to pump it in, rev the engine at 1 RPM, hold it there to get it up to temperature to let the oil do its thing, and then raise the car, unplug it and let a stream of oil come out. I don't remember the exact details but we had to do this procedure about 2 - 3 times at different RPMs until the oil was leveled in there (when the liquid started to go from a smooth stream to drips).

(2) Brand New VVEL procedures! We had to splice the gray and green wires and use a multi-meter, while adjusting something on the VVELs in the engine bay (a pain lol) until the Multimeter read 500 on bank 2. (Driver side). This is only needed to be done if you do not have a console or one of those expensive machines to do it for you -- this is the proper way to set up brand new VVEL RH & LH sides. Much easier with 2 people! We had to climb on top of the car engine bay edges to reach the top middle of the engine bay where the VVELs were located lol. Very annoying and tedious! Definitely not comfortable lol.

(3) The blow off valve from TopgunZ kit is an open valve. It is not a recirculating valve. So if you are unfamiliar with these, and you start the car and see the valve open? It is perfectly normal and supposed to do that. So don't freak out like we did!! Thank you Topz for your support <3

(4) We did not put the front bumper Styrofoam back on lol. Definitely not going to fit with the A2A kit set up since there is alot of stuff in the front. We also located the BOV behind the intercooler bracket (bottom right) to fit the bumper back on because if it was in front, the bumper would not fit properly lol

(5) I put a base tune on my car from Eugene (ByThaBay). He added a special feature where if the car is running too rich or too lean, you can use the cruise control button to adjust the volumetric efficiency in real time to compensate for whatever setup you have. It makes sure that the car is running correctly when it's running. If you look at the fuel trims, and they are too far off one way or another (Above 25% or Below 25% of 100) then you need to adjust the volumetric efficiency.
This was a very cool feature that Eugene put in the tune and I have never heard of anyone or any tuner putting something like that in the way this one is. Really cool and makes me feel a ton more safer! Haha.
My car, when checked, did not have any trouble codes, misfires, or any check engine lights, none of that!! It was just running phenomenal (: Considering all the things we did to it... I'm super happy it is running simple and clean.
We made sure all the codes were on when tuning the base tune, and that nothing was disabled which should be noted as well!!

(6) We had to add more power steering fluid because when I tried to turn the steering wheel with the car on, it would be very stiff. As he added fluid I turned the wheel all the way to the right, kept there a few seconds, then all the way to the left, held it there, and repeated until it got a bit softer. Overtime it will become softer as I drive it more which is good. It is definitely an arm work out!

(7) The A/C fluid was drained when we removed the radiator and everything so this also needs to be recharged / refilled after a full engine swap. My car won't have A/C until I decide to fix it / recharge it again, lol. And it's summer! T_T

(8) The Omni 4-Bar MAP Sensor from Specialty Z installed right into the OEM slot, which was easy -- no need to weld or anything crazy like that with this.

(9) My wheels came in damaged so I called to get it returned and picked up by UPS and they will ship out another pair to me as a replacement, yay.

(10) Had to make a custom bracket for the stock overflow tank because the tabs were cut off that originally held this -- which is natural when installing the stock Stillen Kit!

[bcfromfl]

Originally Posted by TopgunZ

On #3. All other forced induction kits delete the PCV and run breather filters to atmosphere like I suggest. The only reason stillen has it recirculating back into the system is to pass CARB.

This is the first I've heard of this. What about dual catch cans?

[turtle64b]

You're gonna wanna point that BOV the other direction. Lotta hot air comes out and its gonna heat up the IC.

[cupcakez]

Originally Posted by turtle64b

You're gonna wanna point that BOV the other direction. Lotta hot air comes out and its gonna heat up the IC.

Haha yeah. Its the other direction. When I took the photo we didnt know we had it the wrong way.

But it is now facing the correct way xD Thank you <3

[cupcakez]

06/23/2018 Update -- **VERY SAD**

My supercharger is leaking oil.
Not sure where or why but it was leaking oil.

Checked the dipstick and there's almost no oil left in it.
Saw oil inside the hex bolt (not the oil dip stick side but the other side)
saw it right below the supercharger seal / shaft area, saw it sprayed onto my strut bar, right below the supercharger belt, and pretty much everywhere on the drivers' side of the engine bay. the passenger side of the engine bay is all dry.

i think i dont know what to do.

i'm extremely depressed for a few reasons:

(1) the guy who rebuilt my SC is not responding to my texts or calls; he shut off his phone after i tried calling him first and leaving a message, then now his phone is shut off so im sure he heard the message. he is a mobile mechanic, i didn't get a receipt which i should have, and so there's no proof that he did the work for me. i doubt he is going to fix it for me.

(2) i dont know what part of the blower the leak is coming from. i believe it is coming from the shaft / seal and it may be a loose seal or something. i dont know.

(3) I don't know of any reputable person or shop in the sacramento area that is capable of rebuilding or taking apart and looking at and fixing supercharger issues. that's why i turned to a mobile mechanic who did a good job for sure, it's just leaking somewhere but it was at least running fine.

I understand errors happen but like, this made me extremely depressed.

I almost just want to sell the car and go stock 4 door reliable nothing boosted nothing modded no nothing. -_-

idk if i'm overreacting or not, but i'm pretty down in the slumps atm.