Originally Posted by TopgunZ Should have said Danica Patrick. At least she can drive. but......she never won a nascar race i mean she's still sexy just saying there's better examples
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10-31-2019, 12:20 PM | #601 (permalink) |
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but......she never won a nascar race
i mean she's still sexy just saying there's better examples of women racing drivers
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10-31-2019, 12:55 PM | #602 (permalink) |
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Like Michelle Rodriguez?
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10-31-2019, 01:02 PM | #603 (permalink) |
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thought she was only into chicks?
i mean i'll happily just watch lol
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11-01-2019, 08:48 PM | #604 (permalink) |
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Quick update on my boost issue:
(1) I was talking to a few respectable people in the Z community about my issue and what they thought of it after explaining my situation to them. My Situation: - I forgot to mention to you guys that my OEM idler pulley (the one between the Crank pulley and the A/C? pulley?) is missing. It actually popped out of the engine while I was attempting a pull one night and was forever lost. Why? Because the person who worked on the engine last and put that pulley in there screwed it up and tried to retap the threads but failed at it, causing my pulley to pop out of it's slot when I was doing a pull that night. Solution? We decided to find a different serpentine belt to wrap around the entire remaining pulleys to "compensate" for the missing OEM idler pulley. (See attached image of the blue circled pulley that popped out). The car ran fine, but the boost was extremely low for what my set up was. I was making an average of 6 - 7 PSI after this solution was complete. And we had no idea why. At first we thought maybe its the area that the car was driving in at the time? Nope , not that. At my area the PSI was around the same lol. Fast forward 9 months later (today) and I'm talking to a few respected people regarding this issu. 3 people say it was belt slip, everyone else (5++) say it was boost leak. I'm like uhh, okay maybe it's boost leak then if majority says~~ Then I forgot to mention to some of those people that I was missing an OEM idler pulley and I told them the same story I told you guys just now. (See attached images for what they thought and what they think, and also for an image of the missing pulley that popped out). Unfortunately I don't have an image of the way the engine is routed at the moment, but it is definitely causing belt slip on the serpentine side. One of the guys in one of the screenshots explains why! What do you guys think? Thoughts? Comments? In lieu of all of this, in 2 weeks, I am going to gather up the following items: (1)- Front timing cover (2)- Missing OEM Idler Pulley (+) Hardware (3)- Upper Timing Cover Gasket (Left and Right) (4)- Front Main Seal (5)- RTV (6)- K071040 Belt (7)- K080220RPM belt (8)- Brand new K&N Air Filter (Current one I have is busted somehow, and looks almost like a cup, lol) Going to replace the timing cover for 2 reasons: (1) Threads where OEM idler pulley is screwed up, which is originally why we could not replace an idler pulley at the time we replaced the new belt on there. (2) There is a tiny oil leak on the front passenger side of the timing cover that needs to be addressed. =)
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11-02-2019, 06:09 AM | #605 (permalink) |
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You lost a pulley so you just left it off and routed the belt differently? Talk about MacGyvering it lol
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11-02-2019, 06:47 AM | #606 (permalink) |
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This “build” just keeps getting better.
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11-02-2019, 08:52 AM | #607 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
And yes, I didn't replace it because two people told me I didn't need to. Two people I trust...turns out that not replacing it is highly likely why my boost is not making boost lol. This time it isn't completely my fault even when I told them I wanted to replace it, they were like no need because /as long as the tension is there/ then it's okay. 9 months later, no. -_-
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11-02-2019, 10:11 AM | #608 (permalink) |
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I took a very long time to read this entire thread...and I only have but a few words for you:
Please listen to others' advice, you seem to make the same mistakes over and over It sounds like you are almost done fixing your car...? Assuming you did not leave any critical detail out in the thread as to what happened in the past to it, so I'd say best of luck to you and I hope one day you will learn your lessons ^^ I'd love to one day see you complete your build though, it would be really cool to see |
11-02-2019, 08:11 PM | #609 (permalink) |
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Sounds about right
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11-02-2019, 08:41 PM | #610 (permalink) |
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11-02-2019, 08:41 PM | #611 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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11-24-2019, 11:40 AM | #612 (permalink) |
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Update:
- Replaced Serpentine belt with K071040 - Replaced OEM missing idler pulley from 9 months ago (2:00 position from crank pulley) - Replaced OEM grooved idler pulley on tensioner bracket (was a smooth idler pulley before) - Replaced Engine oil with fresh 0w-40 Amsoil Signature series sold at a local shop 10 minutes away from me - Replaced Engine coolant (because timing cover change required this also) - Replaced supercharger belt with Gates K080220RPM (Car made 13.3 PSI with this belt), then the serpentine belt was shredded due to a slight misalignment of an aftermarket gates pulley that I first bought BEFORE putting in OEM ribbed idler pulley on the tensioner bracket, then replaced that aftermarket gates pulley with the OEM grooved idler pulley as stated above as well as replacing the supercharger belt with the previous non-RPM one, then made 12.2 PSI. - Replaced Timing Cover because previous one had a couple minor oil leaks as well as bad threads for a few of the spots where pulleys go into (including the idler pulley spot that fell out in February of this year) - In the process of the belts shredding, it apparently ate up and destroyed the wiring for one of my fans on the radiator, so only one of the fans work now, so I'm looking into having either that wiring replaced or the entire fan assembly replaced just so I can have a working correct wiring to have both fans working properly) - Car is finally running how it should be (minus the radiator fan wiring that got destroyed). Finally, for the first time in 2 years, I have a working 370z that is making what it should be with the setup that it has currently (3.0" Direct SC pulley, 3.2" Jackshaft SC sided pulley, and 9 PSI (2.87" pulley) on the serpentine jackshaft side) I couldn't believe it! - I decided to finally take everyone's advice and stop bringing it to different random shops around my area, and am letting the person who has the only GTR Twin Turbo setup on his G37 work on my car (personal friend of mine in the bay area, CA) and it guess what? I'm finally seeing positive results after taking the advice people have been telling me for the last 2 years! lol. I'm really happy with my car finally as it's running how it should be (minus the radiator fan issue but that is an easy fix). Some good news for once on this thread from me! There are many people I'd like to thank (too many to list) that have supported me throughout this entire time despite me being so stubborn and making dumb decisions left and right. A lot of people on this forums + facebook groups. Couldn't have made it this far without you all! So thank you!! I hope to keep updating this thread with only positive, cool things. And not anymore negative, bad problems. =)
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11-24-2019, 02:17 PM | #613 (permalink) | |
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11-25-2019, 08:37 AM | #614 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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11-27-2019, 01:15 PM | #615 (permalink) |
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Update: (Last safety upgrade of 2019 - 2020, I swear!)
Now that my vehicle is running how it's supposed to be, I decided it's finally time to upgrade the fuel system and components. Towards the end of December, I will be having installed on the vehicle the following: (1) CJM S1-S Return Fuel System (No Rails, because I don't need them at the moment) (2) Zeitronix ECA-2 Flex Fuel Kit & Gauge (3) CJM Top Billet Hat to replace the plastic hat that we all know fails at some point (4) 525lph Walbro Fuel Pump (5) Hardwire (Relay Kit) for the 525lph Walbro Fuel Pump so that the stock wires do not melt due to this running much hotter! Before, I had no need for a bigger fuel pump / upgrade in fuel system because my vehicle was only running 6.5 - 7.5 psi max. At the same time, I had the stock 255lph walbro fuel pump from the stock Stillen Kit and had only upgraded to 1050x IDs. Now, I'd like to finally make the swap to E85 and will be doing so at the end of December when my friend is able to help with the install (The only one that's been fixing all the issues that other shops and people have caused on my car). And yes, he will be the only one touching my car from now on when it comes to installs and repairs. To help myself from spending money in 2020, I asked him to refuse every request no matter what regarding upgrading my car, and since he is the only person that I'll allow work on my car...well I'm kind of stuck at that point! Which is a good thing for me xD I also told him to please only work on my car if its any of the following: (1) Safety hardware change on the car where, if I don't have it, it is unsafe to drive out of my garage / street. (2) Maintenance (If anything breaks down that causes the car to not run properly anymore as it should) Any other reason, I told him to refuse it! So I can help myself to pay things off in 2020 while enjoying the vehicle being run as it should without any risks. And no, I do not drive it hard every single time, once in a while I will. Just knowing that it is capable of going up to X WHP and Y WTQ and Z PSI assuming I wanted to push it, is good enough for me! Before, it was never running how it should be as you all know, but now it is and that's all I really wanted -- and that's what I finally got! One of the main reasons why I'm doing the Fuel Upgrades is because now my car is making 12 - 13 PSI (almost double what I was maxing out in the last 9 months of driving it), so therefore I'm not trying to explode my block due to lack of fuel and incorrect AFR's so, to compensate it, I upgrade the fuel components for the rare time(s) I will push it to the max for fun once in a while! I have already budgeted everything out in 2020 and how I will pay things off each throughout the entire 12 months. So I'm ready to go! This is assuming, of course, nothing unfortunate occurs and something goes right in my car-journey and physical-life for once! ================================================== =============================================== ================================================== =============================================== ================================================== =============================================== For Timeline & Interest Purposes, this will be my current full build list from now until the end of 2020 || ECUTEK; SPEED DENSITY || TopGunz Air-to-Air Supercharger Kit || IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec || RJM Closed Deck Short Block || Quaife LSD || KW V3 Coilovers || Stillen-Exhaust || 11.0.1 CR || V3-Ti Centrifugal Supercharger || Concept Z Performance 34 Row Oil Cooler || AAM Oil Spacer || 1050x ID || Michelin PS4S, 305-30-19 Rear, 275-35-19 Front || Polyurethane Transmission Mount || CJM S1-S Return Fuel System (No Rails) || CJM Billet Fuel Top Hat || CJM Hardwire Relay || E85 (Flex Fuel) || Zeitronix ECA-2 Flex Fuel Sensor Kit + Gauge || 3.0" SC Direct Pulley - 3.2" Jackshaft SC Pulley - 2.87" Jackshaft Serpentine Pulley || 13.3 PSI || K080220RPM SC Belt || K071040 Serpentine Belt || 5.5" ATI Super Dampener Crank Pulley || -- PS: The only thing I may buy is Topgunz new development of the air filter, because I absolutely hate removing this current K&N air filter, but that's only if I need to! XD --
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|| ECUTEK (Eugene) || A2A || IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec || RJM Short Block || Quaife LSD || KW V3 || Stillen-Exhaust || 11.0.1 CR || 928 Full Rebuild || CPZ 34 Row Oil Cooler || Last edited by cupcakez; 11-27-2019 at 01:19 PM. |
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