If u zoom into the pic u can see the Damper bolted right underneath where the F.I. Tow bar is bolted. I no onger using the OEM oil filter as I am running F.I.’s 34 row oil cooler.

About the F. I’m. Tow bar that’s the first Ive heard of it not fitting...:Hmmmm

The Tial BOv is supported by a clamp and diaphragm that bolts right up to the pipe...only way to tone down the BOV is by putting a filter on it like u read ...

Was there an OEM air/oil cooler added in some years that I'm not familar with? my '13 has the OEM oil cooler, but it is an oil/water cooler that is just a filter sandwich plate with coolant lines running to it.. don't think this would interfere with an intercooler.

You are over thinking this. Go with what we have done, it works, it's reliable and you will be happy with the results. TopZ kit is your answer.

As for the BOV muffler, that was my idea and it works well. It is an air vent filter from McMaster Carr.

Thanks so much for everyone's input! I'm not trying to be difficult -- I'm just trying to sort through all this ahead of time so I don't get into surprises after everything's apart that delays the installation. Time on the phone with various parts people, waiting for delivery, etc., etc. We only have room for one car in our garage, and I'm going to be usurping my wife's car for the time this takes. A happy wife is a happy life, and all that...

I see the damper now in the photo, Bolio -- but it looks like the strut is on the passenger side? The strut part is wider -- did you flip it to make more room on the driver's side for the intercooler?

The fact that the damper is shown proves that there's enough room for it...but probably not for the OEM oil cooler, which sits in front of it. Hard to judge the space between the damper and where the OEM cooler would sit in the photo, and the back of the frame of the intercooler. Am I going to have to budget for a 34-row cooler, too? I wasn't planning on that. I'm not going to track the car, and I am happy where the temps are now, which allows plenty of upside for the s/c. I know that for the Nismo, the only choice is the 34-row.

I just got out a flashlight and a tape measure again, and the distance from the front side of my damper bar to the front of the fins of the OEM oil cooler is 1.5" -- but on my car I'm measuring from the damper bar and not the strut, which is on the driver's side. So, if the damper is flipped, the imaginary distance would be less (but there probably wouldn't be enough space between the strut and the cooler if it was flipped). The fins on the oil cooler are 1" deep, and as far as I can tell, it's just a simple air-cooled unit. No frame, just bare fins with a U-shaped run of pipe through it. The cooler starts about where the passenger side of the damper bolts to the support structure, and extends about 10" towards the driver's side -- so it would have to run behind the intercooler.

There is another alternative, but it's extremely difficult to determine with the bumper on. It appears that the oil cooler is mounted to the bottom side of the radiator frame with two simple zig-zagged metal pieces. I could possibly make two different pieces without the zig-zag (which shifts the cooler forward) to move the oil cooler slightly down and back to clear the damper, and position it directly underneath. I'd have to do this in such a way to make sure it stays in the air flow from the opening in front of it. (Maybe I could make a little shroud around it to direct air into it.)

Thanks again for everyone's help! TBatt -- by chance do you have the part number for the filter?

Here's the filter I got for my bpv.
231-2188 | JEGS

Thank you! Added to parts list...

If you don't already have this fitting, you'll need it too. 1.5"

https://www.verociousmotorsports.com...-Hose-Fittings

This part ships with every kit I sell. Full kits and A2A upgrades.

Thanks. I couldn't remember as mine has the cone shaped one on and what you supplied got lost during my install. I ended up having to buy the one I showed.

The Damper is on straight not flippped. F.I. recommends that u flip it if u go with the 34 Oil Cooler that they sale in order to place the oil cooler where they specify so at one point in time prior to going Supercharged it was flipped over. However, when I got The Stillen S/C prior to TopGunz A2A Kit, I had to rearrange some things for plumbing purposes. You will eventually encounter this when u do the Suoercharger Kit or any F.I. Install. Slight modifications and re-organizing will have to be done. When it comes down to it it’s almost like re-arranging tools in ur garage. Trying to figure out how everything will fit to ur taste and needs. The installation instructions TopGunz provides are clear and direct; this kit is designed to fit. If the 34 oil cooler will fit u will have no issues with the OEM one fitting with the FMIC. Besides like Jayhovah pointed out, all the OEM oil filter is is a few coolant lines with a Sandwhich plate that’s plumbed into the power steering cooler, which BTW I still have installed. It will not hamper the fitment of the FMIC.

As far as the 34 row oil cooler is concerned whether u need one or not is dependent on ur driving and weather conditions. If ur gonna track the car then an oil cooler is recommended. I for one need it here due to the hot and humid tropical weather. I also got this upgrade before going supercharged. If ur going F.I. (Supercharged /Turbo) then having an Oil Cooler is highly recommended if not needed. You will eventually run hotter temps opposed to N/A, especially when u get on it.

Thank you very much, Bolio, for your detailed comments!

Now I have a little bit of egg on my face, because when I read and saw, "oil cooler" for the Nismo, I assumed it was for engine oil. But now I see it's just for the power steering hydraulic fluid! I found this thread with a pic to show those who can't visualize what I've been trying to describe: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...r-install.html And this thread describes a Z1 oil cooler install with a photo showing it below an inverted damper: http://www.the370z.com/nismo-370z/36...r-success.html I'm not sure why Nissan inverts the damper on their base/sports models, and places the strut on the driver's side on Nismos.

So now I'm thinking a bit more about an actual oil cooler, but still not sure if I need it. We get in the 90's here during the summer and early fall, which is about 15 degrees warmer than what I've driven so far. Temps are in the 200-205 range after warming up, which means I've still got a comfortable upside range. Hmmmm...

I appreciate all the help from everyone -- I've got some tools, but this is going to be by far the most involved project I've ever attempted on a car.

You will need an oil cooler.

Also, there is no stock damper on base/sport models.

I am in the minority here with this opinion, but the need for an oil/air cooler over the OEM oil/water is debatabe and dependant on your setup and your use of the car. I am getting along fine with the OEM oil/water cooler but my car is strictly a street toy and DD. I am in Central FL so conditions are similar to you, if not a little harsher.

One key difference in my setup is that I am running the GTM/Gamma high capacity oil pan, which has increased my capacity to nearly 2 gallons and the oil pan itself is a gigantic aluminum heatsink.

Popular opinion on this forum is that the OEM oil cooler is mostly ineffective, and I have found this to be untrue. Believing it, I deleted mine... temperatures seemed fine during the cooler months but when summer finally started to beat down on us my oil temps became uncomfortably high.

As a test sample - without my oil cooler:
Cruising at 95mph, 87 degrees outside - 260 degrees (steady state)

Not much later, I reinstalled it:
Cruising at 95mph, 83 degrees outside - 227ish degrees (steady state)

So in my situation, the OEM cooler made a substantial difference.

My advice would be this:
If your car EVER sees track time of any kind, install one.

If you are hiring out your install work, go ahead and have a cooler installed at the same time as the labor will be minimal while everything is torn apart.

If you do your own work and are a tinkerer and don't mind experimenting, then try foregoing it and seeing how it goes... you can always add one if the temps aren't to your liking. It's not like the world explodes if you do a couple of fun runs and you touch 260. Everyone told me to install one when I went TT and I took the wait-and-see approach and, for me, I didn't need one. Maybe I drive like an old lady. =)

Thanks very much for your thoughts, Jayhovah. So there IS an engine oil cooler somewhere? Where the heck is it?!

Just for the sake of linking, I found this DIY: http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...on-w-pics.html On page 3, Z1 provides a pdf to their updated instructions.

In my case, not only would I have to budget for a 34-row, but also a rolling jack stand, and two stationary stands, as I imagine you can't do the install with the tires on the floor. (Required removal of the undershroud?) Alternatively, I suppose I could get ramps from Harbor Freight, but they probably wouldn't clear the underside of the bumper before reaching the tires.

I like the "wait and see" acid test, but I don't relish the idea of having to dig back into the front of the car a second time if it does run too hot to put the cooler on.

I will never dump the clutch, because I know how hard that is on various drivetrain components, and I hate breaking things. Most likely, the s/c will only ever see full boost for short rolling acceleration runs lasting no longer than a minute, and quick blips on the throttle of a few seconds each. I've had the car up to 110 already, and it reaches that speed so quickly I can't imagine holding the pedal to the floor that long very often with the s/c -- I'd be hitting 160!

(BTW, I just got my Uniden R3 in the mail...)

The OEM cooler is an oil to water unit, so all you'll see is a sandwich plate and some coolant lines.

Installing an air to air cooler can be done on ramps. Cut a couple of 2x12s to extend the ramps so you'll clear the bumper. It's an easy install.