Topgunz full supercharger kits!!
 

As many of you are aware from my Air to Air design and thread, I had been working towards bringing a supercharger kit to the market. I had 3 goals:

- Great, usable power
- Reliable and Safe
- Offer a kit that is under $6K

By partnering with Stillen and utilizing their proven bracket and their manifold that mates to my A2A kits and adding in a few power adders, I was able to reach those goals.

Offering these kits with the right pulley setup, pulley tensioners and the upgraded Si trim V3 Vortech Head units, they are making some terrific numbers.

We are seeing 470whp on pump 91, 485whp on pump 93 and 550+whp on E85.

The below graph 472whp was on 91 octane and the 541whp pull was on E72!

http://www.the370z.com/members/topgu...ec-z-graph.png


These tuner kits will be sold for $5999 with FREE shipping to your door anywhere in the continental U.S.



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Included in the kit:

Si trim upgraded Vortech V3
K&N Filter
Filter adapter
Breather filters
60* coupler
Aluminum L pipe 90*
Reducing coupler
Tial pipe
Coupler - straight 2.75 x2
Treadstone 750HP Intercooler
2.5-2.75 45* Coupler
Aluminum Y-pipe with dual MAF flanges
Coupler - 90* 2.75"
IC brackets
Block off plate
T-bolt clamps 2.5" - X2
T-bolt clamps 2.75" - X10
Silocone hose - per ft. - X5
Bolts, Nuts, Washers
Tial QRJ
Tial V band Inlet
Tial V band clamp
Tial 1.5" Exhaust
GTR Spark plugs
Stillen Main bracket
Stillen Manifold
Stillen Gen2 MAF and TB, PNP extensions
New TB and Manifold Gaskets

I can supply Injector Dynamics ID1050x injectors for an impossible to beat price of $725.

I suggest a 340lph pump or higher for pump gas and at minimum a 400lph and Fuel Return System for E85. CJ Motorsports is your best friend in the fuel department! He will guide you through the install of a RFS or pump install if you need additional help and his product is incredible.

You will need a tuning solution. I can only recommend Ecutek with the Omni MAP sensor for hybrid SD tune capabilities. The stock MAFS will max out close to 500whp so Uprev becomes problematic.

I will still be supplying the A2A conversion for anyone who already bought the Stillen Kit and wants to make a ton more power.

Contact me here on the forum through PM or you may reach me at my email address... Adidis@hotmail.com

You know there's an actual "Post Reply" button right? lol

Congrats on the finally bringing the kit to the market Aaron. I'm also just as impressed you managed to strike a deal with Stillen haha. Definitely see this option being popular. :)

Nice graph. :tiphat: My ethanol gauge was reading 72% on the 541 pull.

Better? :icon17:

Fixed. Thanks Redondo!

Curious, I have 504whp/364wtq out of my kit, how can I kick the torque up? Like the one in the graph.. hmm Maybe more back pressure?

Congrats on your own kit! Thanks for the mention too!

Most of the torque is going to be in the tuning and or upgraded pulley size. Ignition timing holds back a lot of power out of cars. Depending on the tuner and how much timing he is running and what octane is being used ect.

So whats most use for crash bar? Nice a kit you dont have to get a big hood

Fast Intentions works perfect.

Congrats Aaron....I too am surprised that Stillen agreed to strike a deal with you....I’m still waiting for a response from them since last year for my Cable replacements for the TBs....Glad there is a better and simpler option available for others out there. Loving the upgraded brackets on the FMIC

Yes! Can’t wait to get my kit. Already have supporting mods that I need to install.

Just to be clear, since the photo has an aftermarket strut bar, unlike other, yet to be released kits, your kit will work with stock bar, correct?

I like the new intercooler bracket!

Yes the stock Strut Bar will still fit with this kit....it’s the crash bar that u will need to replace.....most of us have gone with the F.I. tow/crash bar

Word. Were about to go to Whistler and Utah for the next couple weeks and then delivering our friends baby when we get back but then I’ll make a trip out to Minnesot-way to hit Lutsen or Spirit and get mine. I’ll try to get a hold of my fam and plan a week in March that works best

C...A...R...B... pretty please!!!

and magic beans while you're at it.

My only question regarding this is:
Does the head unit that stillen provides have the welded on carb eo# ?

I really wish I had gotten my car and saw this supercharger kit at this time instead of buying the stock kit and ending up replacing a lot of the parts, xD
Darn :D


Edit:

@TopgunZ:

- I wish to purchase your $1750 Full A2A kit for the Stillen Supercharger. Sent a text to you about it, but realized you are probably sleeping, forgot you were in a different part of the states, lol. My bad!

But yeah, I look forward to making the actual purchase in the next 4 - 5 weeks depending on how things go for me!
SUPER STOKED ABOUT IT!

If I can get it before the built engine from IPP ships out and is delivered to my local mechanic shop, I can have the shop also install the new A2A kit after they disassemble the stillen supercharger from old blown up broken engine, and just assemble the new A2A kit -- since it comes with instructions :D They can follow them better than I can xD

SO with recommended injectors, $6675? How long do you estimate install time is?

Yes. Install depends on aptitude level. A shop could install this in 8-10 hours. A home mechanic could double that.

If you are not a home mechanic, or a shop mechanic! And you are going into the supercharger kit install blind with only instructions in front of you + the pieces like I did with my friend as well?

It will take way, way, wayyy longer!
It took us about 40 - 50 hours from start to finish
(About 1/2 the time included us going to the store MULTIPLE times)!!!

Otherwise, what Top said I agree with too! :D

I don't think you'll have any luck passing it off as the Stillen CARB kit without the tube passing right behind radiator. From what I here the EO# is just a cheapo black on white sticker.

Seb would be my guy for this.

What pulleys are supplied with this kit? Stock stillen pulleys or custom? Do I have to worry about belt slip with your setup or does this kit modify the pulleys to prevent this?

From the pictures, it looks like the jackshaft pulley has plenty of belt wrap to prevent slipping. It looks like Top thought about that problem and fixed it with the belt routing.

Does anyone know the size of the stock idler pulley that is on the supercharger belt side? I understand that there are 3 pulleys on the supercharger side:
1) Supercharger pulley on the jackshaft slot
2) Next to that is the Supercharger pulley on the blower itself
3) Below those two is the idler pulley that was removed from the OEM Serpentine side and placed there.

I don't remember what size the idler pulley (3rd one) on the supercharger side is?
Can anyone shed some light on that? Please and thank you!

That...Does this mean ur going to discontinue ur pulley/belt kit?

As he states on first post (
I will still be supplying the A2A conversion for anyone who already bought the Stillen Kit and wants to make a ton more power.)

Would LTHs give me more power with this kit? I remember reading the Stillen kit supposedly lost boost and power or something with LTHs.

You will lose boost, but gain power because you will free up backpressure and instead of pressurizing your manifold (which is your boost reading) you get that spent combustion out of the way for more Air! Hence, more power.

Anything that improves airflow through a supercharged engine should result in a decrease of boost pressure. If the engine can digest the air with less effort, the build up of air (pressure) in the intake manifold will decrease. This doesn't mean the supercharger is pushing less air into the engine. Its compressor speed is defined by its drive ratio to the crankshaft. So lowering boost via improved engine airflow will only increase power: reduction in pumping losses and parasitic drag and improved thermal efficiency,

I've read just about every thread on this board about exhaust systems, but most just discuss the sound out of various offerings from different manufacturers, or that they allow for more horsepower over OEM. But given that the Nismo exhaust is more free-flowing than the base model, how much would be left on the table by staying with the Nismo exhaust for the A2A system, coupled with high-flow cats? I really don't want a loud exhaust, and am fine with what's already there. But will retaining the Nismo exhaust result in noticeably hotter operating temps, and/or higher boost pressure?

I've looked at the dyno sheets, and I'm not really convinced that the aftermarket exhausts do more in terms of horsepower than the Nismo system, which, by extension, would also suggest that they don't move any more air. Thoughts? Thanks!

If U want to stick with the Nismo Cat back that’s fine...to save u headaches in the long run ur gonna have to go with a LTH or Test Pipe...Exhaust temps will increase being boosted so u will eventually end up burning through ur Cats or HFCs...if u want something a little toned down then make sure u get resonated Test Pipes...they sound cleaner and are less raspy than straight test pipes

This. THey will eventually let go. Not as quick as HFC's but they will.

If you want the quietest test pipes on the market then look at the Motordyne ART pipes. THey sound exaclty like High flow cats.

Grf...I was hoping not to have to go this route...don't want to deal with the smell and possible drone. In another thread, it was recommended to have 100-cel blanks welded into pipes that positioned them further back -- would this work? Or, is this just an expensive way to delay the inevitable?

mil-spec (or some other very high end cat) located downstream appears to be a viable and reliable solution... though I don't know if anyone has been running it on this platform long enough to prove it out.

Tbatt runs 100 cell mil spec cats downstream, I'm not sure how long he's been running them though. I have a set on order and I'll be doing the same thing. Fast Intentions sells their lead pipes with 100 cell mil spec cats and Kevin said they work fine with forced induction.

For drone, here's what Tbatt did, I'll be doing the same mod also.

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...s-great-9.html

Thanks for the tips! I re-read TBatt's posts, and realized that he's got a Y-pipe. I think I've got an H-pipe on a Nismo? Haven't crawled underneath yet to check things out. I sent an e-mail to Fast Intentions to see what they say, and if they have perhaps a customized product. One thing I'm wondering is if a new wiring harness is needed for the O2 sensors if they are moved further back.

TBatt said the drone is reduced 50%, which has me wondering if that's still too much for me...

I'm running the standard FI TDX H pipe arrangement. The stock O2 sensor wiring works fine.

The new exhaust is much better than what I had but it is still kind of loud when accelerating. The main thing I was after was the constant drone at 70-80mph. It is now gone with the exception of load such as going up a hill. It's not bad but a little louder than I would like. Steady speed it is MUCH quieter!

Thanks for chiming in, TBatt.

Sorry for the questions, and I don't mean to sidetrack this thread. I just want to make sure I'm prepared ahead of time for all the parts, and don't discover any nasty (read: expensive) surprises after I'm committed. I also don't want to stray too far from my goal of having a civilized car to drive, that won't have my wife giving me the stink-eye over!