If your using the Art pipes paired with the E370 (but there are two versions of it, not sure which one your running with but I guess it is the one they designed for forced induction according to your description to the pipe diameters), I don't think there isn't enough free flowing. I'm also running Art pipes but using a true-dual 3" catback exhaust. What's your average exhaust gas temperature under WOT?

I don't have an EGT probe, so I don't know. I have a very hard time believing this could be exhaust flow related, as I'm sure there's others with more restrictive exhausts that don't have similar problems. At worst case scenario if I can't figure this out, I'll just unbolt the damn thing and do a pull and see what happens.

Here's a picture of the pulley setup: https://i.imgur.com/wee3Icg.jpg

Looks like the stock 3.2 jackshaft sc pulley. Is that the brass shipping plug on the right side of the sc? It doesn't look like the 3/16" allen head dipstick cap.

The one on the right is the dipstick, the one on the left is the vent plug.

Good, just wanted to make sure.

Looking good. There seems to be no belt dust. Check if there is leak from the intake pipes, silicone hoses, gaskets, and/or valve. I'm always interested in the design and actual performance of the E370, especially its 2-1 Y section where there seems to be only one single 3-3.25" pipe as the merge collector. I think it does help advance the scavenging effect but dunno if this will cause back pressure to hinder CFM of big power. From their web info, it seems the exhaust is capable of supporting 700-hp output. Let us know the dyno results and type of fuel you use when you have them (if possible). Guess this is the only way to justify the hypothesis of the restriction (whether it does flow freely or not).

I was planning on doing the dyno next week, the local shop has an opening, however I did a small 4th gear pull and it feels like my poor stock clutch is already trying to slip. I need to take care of that first unfortunately, it would just be a waste of money if it slips while on the dyno. I did around 4 data logged full throttle pulls today, and checked around the belts and there is zero rubber/belt dust anywhere that I could see. The boost pressure is seemingly inconsistent, I really don't trust this MAP sensor so I'm ordering a boost gauge now. According to the MAP sensor I hit 0.80 bar (11.6psi) at anywhere from 6,300 to 6,600 rpm. The last pull I did peaked at 0.90 bar (13psi) at 6,800 before again, falling off to around 0.80 bar by redline.

Alright guys, car just had everything installed, NO TUNE has been uploaded yet.
MAFS and throttle bodies are connected correctly. My Tech found similar issues here online and thought a proper tune being uploaded or a recalibration of throttle bodies will correct, but tuner says it won’t. You guys have any ideas?

Thanks!

Are these OEM MAFs, TBs, wires, cables, and connectors? Had they cleaned before install and startup? Which extension cables are you using? I'd ask my mechanic to check these first, followed by checking the TPS. Make sure your using the OEM wires, connectors, and the Stillen Gen2 extension cables. As long as they are fully functional, I see no reason the TBs can't be calibrated through the learning process.

We’re using whatever came with the kit, nothing special, so not sure if it’s Stillen extensions or not. We have not started the car yet as it has no tune uploaded yet. I’ll pass along the info. Thanks.


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Sounds like a plan. Keep us posted if possible. I'd still suggest you have an EGT gauge and sensor installed. Will help you keep your engine and exhaust in check under WOT. :D

So we decided to upload tune anyway to see if it would get rid of these codes, and it did. Just FYI for future searches.

I think the drop in boost at high rpms is from the supercharger side belt slipping. I ran my hand under under the belts and on serpentine side it's clean, but once I touch that supercharger side belt my hand is covered in black dust which I assume isn't normal and due to it slipping. I can tighten that tensioner, which looks like a real pain in the *** to get to while still in the car, however if it's already making 13psi with belt slip I really don't want to know what it will do once it's tightened. Boost gauge arrives next week and I should be able to verify with that the MAP sensor readings just to make sure. Also new clutch is going in next week as well

Chances are it isn't going to make any more boost, it'll just make 13 psi all the way to redline. Keep an eye on the supercharger side and see if you start to get dust build up around the pulleys and bracket.

There's definitely belt dust around on the backside. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought centrifugal superchargers built boost linearly to RPM unless there's a restriction. I suppose that filter is a pretty heavy restriction though. I'm going to attempt to tighten that belt tomorrow. Any idea on how tight it should be? I guess until it stops slipping, however there's already only a very, very small amount of movement when I push on the belt as is.

https://i.imgur.com/lHHMUBd.jpg

That's a pretty significant amount of dust. Yep, the filter is a pretty big restriction. Even with a turbo guard screen, my car made 16.4 psi @7400 rpm. Boost started falling off before redline and I had zero belt slip. I hope someone else chimes in on belt tension. I believe somewhere in this thread there's an explanation. I believe it's based on how much you can twist the belt in the top section between the sc pulley and jackshaft pulley.

Belt slip is what I expected in the beginning, although it is not visible in the first attached pic you showed to us (the surface of the backside is shielded). Try to tighten the belt as tight as possible until it is foiled in any attempt to flip it. I've had a hard time in dealing with my friend's build (which was mainly built by me, my mechanic, and my tuner) of the 928 wheel and filter. We found belt dust around the bracket and even used heat gun to check these two belts.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BxOYNS6n...=1efdk158o36mp
https://www.instagram.com/p/BxUEwWjF...d=nccm677eqi3i
We used a larger lower idler custom one off and RPM belt on the supercharger side to solve it. He's having the similar setup on the serpentine side as yours.
https://www.instagram.com/p/ByDHTcPA...d=1cjlg185ac4b
or
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bx5Al-in...=1ukdsx8trl0zy

Back to your problem, I think the Omni MAP sensor shouldn't be that fragile unless it was damaged during installing it. And yes the filter is indeed a restriction. You'll loose at least 3 psi roughly when putting the filter on. Your system will be more susceptible to the belt slip with the filter on, like you wear a mask to breath. You will have to breath (spin it) harder and that's exactly the case your blower is undergoing. I personally think it's barely possible to achieve more than 15ish psi if your using the filter along with the poor little V3 Sci/Si trims of the 8-rib drive pulley. Will be busy dealing with belt slip in addition to the supercharger oil potentially coming out of the head unit. Try to use 36225 lower idler if you still see the dust after every effort you have done to tighten the supercharger belt. I'm assuming your using the Gates 7pk2642 belt on the serpentine side. I'd not suggest you consider using the RPM belt if your running the stock self-lubricated Vortech internals and the current pulley combination (shouldn't be needed to use the RPM belt right now).

I made a quick video showing the current belt tension. I have a friend who has a vortech 350z and he said my belt is already much tighter than his is. I haven't tightened the belt yet. Curious to see how this compares https://youtu.be/MWe5_cB3SBc

I can tell you that my belt is tighter than yours, it twists about half as much as yours does.

Still too loose.

I tightened it about one full turn of the bolt, I marked it before starting. The belt doesn't "seem" any tighter but I didn't want to overtighten it. I did one pull and the boost peaked at 7,000 rpms (at 12.2psi) and stayed pretty constant all the way to 7,700 this time, not dropping off anymore. I'll do a few more pulls some time later to confirm but I think it's fine for now. New clutch goes in on thursday, then I'll do the break in miles and get it on a dyno fairly soon after.

]

Well, I'm making 12.3 psi boost. Stock pulley, Motordyne LTH, Helmholtz test pipes, Motordyne exhaust. Seems pretty high. Eugene says Im at 77% duty cycle on pump gas on my Walbro 480/1050cc combo which was supposed to already be an upgrade pump wise just to be safe. We need to check fuel pressure under boost. So, plenty of boost, but no room for E85 at this duty cycle.

Welcome to my world, now you understand? :icon17:. Out of curiosity how consistent is your boost over different WOT pulls? I have about a 1psi variance, I've seen as "low" as 11.8 to 12psi and as high as 13psi, with no changes.

I didn't have any issues understanding. So my runs are consistent boost wise. Although I think my Innovate gauge might read a bit lower...maybe 10's? we just got it working so I need to check that. The issue with duty cycle was a kinked vacuum line which is why boost gauge wasn't working, and FPR wasn't raising pressure. But duty is still 70%.

What are folks setting idle fuel pressure to? 41-42? Or more like 52? CJM says 1050's are for cars making less than 700WHP. Im way below that. Going to take a video of the fuel pressure to see what it's doing.

Depends on whether your tuner uses the vacuum line or not. Most of the tuners like to set base pressure as 43-45 and to use the vacuum line. There are three kinds of pressure - regulator pressure (set with the adjuster screw), manifold pressure (for those of the vacuum line hooked up), and pressure at the injectors. Mine was set as 52 for the idle fuel pressure. With the fuel return, duty cycle, and recorded pressures under WOT, one can actually confirm if the fuel pump is capable of supporting the power under WOT, based on the fuel your using.

So recently my car has been feeling a bit sluggish and i noticed that my max boost readings were only about 4.5 lbs (down from about 7.7 right after system install). So I either was experiencing belt slip, had a boost leak or my filter was clogged. I really didn't want to remove the blower, so I cut the filter in half around it's circumference & pulled it out. Wow, super clogged, as you can see below (after only about 6 months of use). I then built a "turbo-guard" type of inlet screen out of 5/64" opening stainless (very strong) screen that I sourced from Summit. Now, i'm not sure how long I'm going to run w/ this setup b/c although it will certainly stop the large stuff from getting in, lots of smaller dirt will flow right through. But wow, what an improvement. I went for a quick test drive & was seeing between 9.5 & 10lbs of boost during 2nd gear pulls. Needless to say, the car feels waaay stronger.

I like how you just cut the K&N filter! Haha. That's something I'd probably do next time if I know I'm going to replace it with something else that does not require me to take out the blower.

What's your pulley setup?

I'm experiencing really low boost myself (7 PSI average) and that's with serpentine belt slip & a really clogged up K&N air filter + busted up at that to make things worse (it looks almost like a cup).

Without an air filter you should be running close to 11 - 13 PSI depending on what your pulley set up is.

If you're only pulling in 9.5 - 10psi then there is still something wrong with the boost you have (because I have similar problems, just may not be exact same as you).

I have the "stock" pulley setup that comes w Aaron's full kit, which I believe is the 8# setup.

I'm seeing 10.5 psi @ 5600 RPM now.

I was seeing about 5-6 psi with the small filter setup.

Still working out some kinks though (no pun intended haha).

The kit comes with the 9# pulley. It also will hit around 10.5lbs of boost after install.

There is a guy on here that did a study on the filter vs turbo guard vs turbo guard with pre-filter with just an Air to Air conversion kit and not my full kit so he has the low boost impeller.

Turbo Guard only - 9psi
Turbo Guard with pre filter - 6psi
K&N filter - 8psi

So he was only seeing a 1psi drop to filter air vs. ingest sand (silica) which will win over your aluminum block.

I am in the middle of developing a new intake among many other upgrades. Stay tuned folks!

Here is a pic of the pre-filter after just a couple of days. If you can see, there is sand stuck on the pre-filter.

Yay!!!! Good to see this kit still being refined and supported. And not deceiving customers and compromising engines by publishing dynos where no filter was used and not mentioning it. But instead, showing what even a pre-filter collects when using a turbo guard. Great work Topz.

I guess it depends on where you live. I ran a pre-filter on my turbo guard for a few days and saw nothing. But I live in the city. Also, pulled mafs and throttle bodies after about 1500 miles with turbo guard screen and they were spotless.

Aaron, I sent you a text last Saturday.

But do you see the picture of that k&n filter posted above? All that would have gone into the engine. Not to mention everything that bounced off.

I fortunately don't have that problem in my area. Even when I took the stock k&n off when I switched to the turbo guard, the k&n was clean.

I'd love to see the dyno sheet comparisons of the k&n, turbo guard and turbo guard w/prefilter. When I had Seb do a comparison between the NGR screen and the turbo guard screen, it lost 1 psi and that just with a smaller screen size.

For real, I work for a DOT, there's so much crap on the road surface, I can't believe people actually drive around without proper air filtration.

Can't wait to see the new intake design!

Not being comfortable running w/ just a stainless screen, I bought some unifilter 3/8" fine foam & fabricated a custom filter to fit over the stainless screen. It's a bit crude, but fits well. Glued together w/ RTV. I've not run it yet, so don't know what the flow will be. Maybe if the weather cooperates tomorrow I can test it out. It's small, but on the plus side, it's easy to remove to clean & re-oil. Again, not sure if I will stay w/ this approach long term, but I think it's an interesting experiment.

Something that small will be one of two things. Restrictive, or ineffective at filtering dust. No way around it.

Maybe it would be possible to remove enough black silicone from the top of the filter and shorten the silicone flange so there is just enough to attach it to the supercharger. This might provide enough room to shift the stock filter on and off the supercharger. That’s my plan as soon as I get my car back so that I can start working on my 3D printed plans for this.


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One issue I see with this is that if the foam gets old it could start breaking down and get sucked into the sc. You would have to monitor it to make sure it doesn't happen. It could be pretty restrictive also.

So I lost about 3 psi by adding the filter. W screen alone I get about 9.5 psi and about 6.5 w the filter installed over the screen.