Is that a built motor?

I believe it's stock motor:tup:

Stock block

That second run is pretty impressive. E85?

Oh, yeah, definitely e85 at 16.4 psi. At the bottom of the page it shows the 4 different boost settings and fuel.

That’s nice. I want to make the jump to corn but I can’t put down the power I have now, so it doesn’t make much sense chasing more.

Here is a bone stock 2014 Nismo. The higher line is after ECUTEK tune for 93 octane.

Here in California with 91 being the highest octane and it being 4.50/gal. and e85 being half that it doesn't make any sense to run 91 octane. :rofl2:

Just placed an order for a kit. Aaron was a pleasure to deal with and provided tons of info for a new Z owner. Feeling pretty confident this build will be exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks!

Wow! Best first post ever? “Yeah, just picked me up Topgunz full kit”. :tup:

I've been lurking for a few months trying to decide on the 370 or another car to build. After driving them both I'm too embarrassed to say the other one I was considering lol. Have a long list of parts coming, so I'll probably get a build thread going when I get back home and start tearing into it.

Spill it! It will only be first in a long list of embarrassing admissions you end up making on this forum =)

Basically it came down to SC'ing a 370 or grabbing a crashed BRZ/FRS/86 and doing an LS swap in it. I already have a spare Turn Key LS3 sitting around that was originally destined for a Tacoma project, but I think the Z looks much better in stock trim and would require a lot less work for what I want. I went to the Nissan dealership and had a blast sliding around in their test car, then headed next door to Toyota and test drove an 86. It was just all around underwhelming and the aesthetics unappealing without a lot of bodywork, whereas the stock Z was already a blast to drive and looked amazing.

Welcome! You need to add “the great” to your nym. Just a suggestion... :happydance:

Just placed my order, Aaron was super helpful in answering all my dumb questions, and I'm sure there will be more when it comes time to install. Glad to be joining the boosted club.

OK Guys, I have spent a bunch of time going back and forth on this forum, Youtube and the G37 forums and I think I have it figured out.
For a 7At G37 looking for around 430-450whp (or more) 91oct, can someone(s) let me know if I've figured it out correctly and what I may be missing?:
1. Buy TopGunz A2A full kit
2. Buy Aeromotive 340 fuel pump and CJM billet tophat assembly
3. Buy injectors somewhere around 750
4. Keep an eye on my stock cats and probably get some (Berks?) in the near future
5. Get ECUTek, I have a reputable ECUTek shop near me.
6. MAFs, shouldn't need to upgrade if I'm under 500hp?

That seems like everything I could find, am I on the right track?

You can use stock MAFs and get an Omni or Haltech MAP to ask your tuner doing hybrid tuning in ECUTek. Don't use stock cats. It will only hinder the performance. Remember the more the back pressure you reduce the more the performance you can improve. I'd recommend injector size 850 If your sure you won't go E. Last but not least, I'd strongly recommend you get a trans oil cooler for your automatic G.

This. :iagree:

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll definitely go with 850 and a trans cooler.

If you need help with anything (if you're doing it yourself), I'm right on the other side of the water from you!

I went with a fuel return system and test pipes as well. I got ID1050x injectors. Topgunz can get you a great deal on those! My car runs like stock even with injectors that big. I also still use stock MAFs.

-Brett

I thought I remembered someone mentioning the FI tow bar will work with this intercooler, but I can't find it again. Can anyone confirm this will fit?

http://i.imgur.com/6mrZLjot.jpg

You want to know if it will work with Topgunz's intercooler? If so, yes it does.

Wasn't there an issue with the tow hook location on the G37?

I may be the first person in history to ask this question, but: how would I go about lowering the boost? I imagine swapping out one of the pulleys, which one though and where would I get one? The car is currently making 12.7psi of boost and Sebastian thinks more timing and less boost would be beneficial with the fuel I have available to me.

Hmmm... so the car only makes too much boost at or near redline, correct?

So he wants you to sacrifice boost and power in the other 90% of the rev range in order to increase it at the very end, where you probably will spend very little time?

I am just relaying the information I was told. I think it's pretty safe to say Sebastian with his knowledge and experience is probably the undisputed best tuner for this platform, I trust his advice. I am however thinking I might put the car on a dyno to see how much power it makes at the current boost/timing, then play with the pulleys and have the timing adjusted and get the car re-dynoed, it would make for a nice comparison and I'll be able to know for sure which is ideal. But yes, you're right, it would ultimately depend on what I want more, more peak power or more power everywhere else. I haven't made that decision yet and I think comparing two dynos would be the best way to make that choice. If I'm only losing a little bit of power down low but making a decent amount more at the top end, then yeah that would probably be what I'd go with.

What are you mods? How are you making almost 13psi with my kit? The only thing I can think of is that you have a restriction in your exhaust somewhere therefore creating too much backpressure which is exactly how boost is measured.

Do you have stock cats? Free flow exhaust?

I'm interested in your supporting mods, too. Curious about the reason of lowering boost. I've been running 13psi on stock block of filter on and pump 93 gas for up to 6500 miles with no issues. What fuel are you using? What exhaust system (cat/catless/header/test pipes/cbe/pipe diameters) are you using? What fuel system are you using? What ignition timing is with your car? Increasing volumetric efficiency by means of better intake and exhaust can benefit power without the need of too much boost and is always good to do so, but it's better to let us know your mods first so that one could comprehend the reason. Lowering boost can be achieved by either a larger jackshaft pulley (serpentine side) or a larger supercharger pulley (supercharger side). :hello:

Honestly though. The BEST way to do this is to just weld a wastegate into your L pipe. You can then set the exact amount of boost you want to run. If you have a 10 psi spring in there you would be limited to 10 psi. The reason this is better than swapping a pulley is that you get all the down low and mid range benefits of hitting boost faster but will limit the top end so you dont overboost.

There is a guy on this forum (redondoaveb) that is doing that except he has a boost controller and will run around on 9psi or so but then switches to his race tune and hits 14psi. Its pretty cool.

It's a full motordyne exhaust, including ART pipes, so no catalytic converters. I know it's not the absolute best free flowing exhaust but it should flow very well, significantly better than OEM. The "muffler" for it is just an x-pipe. I was surprised at that much boost too, considering everything I've seen people are making 10-11psi on the same setup. I have no idea why it is making so much boost, really don't.

Do you know the pipe diameters of your muffler? Any pics of your exhaust? I'm assuming your boost readings are correct....

I believe it starts at 2.5" and gradually increases to 3" or something like that, it's literally the stock motordyne shockwave exhaust for the 370z (https://motordyneengineering.com/pro...ockwave-e370z/)

I'm second guessing the boost readings my self, I am using the omni 4 bar map sensor. I just looked at the peak number for Manifold Absolute Pressure (and confirmed it with Sebastian as well). But, actually going back in the logs and seeing when it hit that number, it hit .80 bar at around 6500 rpm, peaked at .88 bar at 7,100rpm, then actually dropped a bit to around .78 bar by redline (7,700 rpm).

I'm still new at forced induction, but correct me if I'm wrong but I don't think a centrifugal supercharger is supposed to hit peak boost before redline then drop off, I suppose that would potentially indicate a boost leak, however it's already making more boost than it should.

Here's the MAP sensor log for the pull: https://i.imgur.com/lrg1T1d.png

Could you please check if there is any dust around the bracket? What's your combination of the pulley and belt? Are you overspinning your blower? I'm guessing your suffering from certain degree of belt slip in addition to the boost leak (if any).

I don't know the exact details, what I got is what went on, there was no extra parts to get mixed up with, so Aaron would know better about what's on it. In fact, the three pulleys and belt on the back of the supercharger already came pre-assembled, I never even had to touch any of that.

I measured a couple of the pulleys that I could, the others I can't do while they're still on the car, at least not with a tape measure. Also sorry for not knowing the exact names of the pulleys, I'm still learning lol.

Serpentine side:

Top left (the one next to the main pulley that spins the supercharger belt): 2.875"
Top right (the one that spins the supercharger belt): 2.875"

Supercharger side:

Supercharger pulley (the one on the supercharge its self): 3.25"

The rest I either need to take off the car or maybe a caliper would do it

These sound about right. Try to see If the one next to the supercharger has the same size as that of the one on the supercharger its self. I'm assuming your lower idler on the supercharger side is stock 2.5". Let us know the part numbers of your belts on both sides.

Are you talking about the jackshaft pulley? If so, I can guarantee it hasn't been changed because if it had whoever changed it would have had to add a spacer to the sc pulley to compensate for the different offset of the new Vortech jackshaft pulley. I'll bet it's the stock 3.2.

Really hard to tell with it still on the car but it appears to be the same size as the one on the supercharger, definitely larger than 3". I really doubt there's a restriction in my exhaust, but who knows anymore. If I'm making almost 13psi at 7,100 rpm before it starts to fall off (because of either boost leak or belt slip, or both...) I can't even imagine what it would be trying to do if it hit redline at 7,700rpm. What the hell lmao

I'm sure it a 3.2, same as the sc. If it had been changed you'd see a spacer on the sc shaft in order to space the sc pulley out to match the offset of the new jackshaft pulley.

After I got my belt slip stopped, my car hit peak boost at 7400rpm and max power at 7300rpm.

Yeah I do think so. Always good to check more details. I'm thinking if he will see some belt dust around the bracket. If not, then he has to check if there is any leak.