Installing Stillen SC myself, need help please!

[overtureZ]

I am sure I will run into more issues but these are my questions for right now if anyone could help answer them!
First this is on a 2012 370z non-nismo
Used stillen sc kit--

1st: It came with a 25mm TurboSmart BOV, which isn't in the instructions obviously so where do I install this? with the new hoses or same hoses? Remove bypass valve, replace bypass valve, add with bypass valve? No clue, any help would be great!!

2nd: On the throttle bodies, on the stillen manifold there is a connector beside each of the 2 throttle bodies. Only came with 1 cable plugged into one of the connectors, is that correct or am I missed a cable? and does it matter which connector is plugged in if I only need 1 cable?

3rd: Are the stillen manifold bolts the same length and size as the stock plenum bolts? Because I'm not sure if I have them with the kit...

4th: Do I need to use silicon grease on the plenum gasket and injector o-rings? or just o-rings?

[MoulaZ]

1. Turbosmart BOV was a popular upgrade with the standard kit. Use in place of original Bypass valve. No different steps needed.

2. Original connector from harness reaches one of them just fine. The 'extender' cable is needed for the other one to reach the original connector from the harness on the other side of the engine bay.

3. Definitely not the same. You need different bolts for the manifold. All the same length at least, 8 if I remember correctly. You'll also need that special super long spanner to do up the 3 bolts that are under the manifold. Might be able to pick it up at a local tool/auto store. As for the bolts, maybe ask Stillen exactly what they were and get them from there or take the bolt info and get em from a local supplier somewhere.

4. No. Do not use silicone! Go buy a brand new plenum gasket from Nissan (only like 30 bucks or something), clean the surfaces and just use that. Same thing applies to the Throttle Bodies. If you need new O-Rings for the TBs you'll need to contact Stillen for those.

[overtureZ]

Thanks for all the answers!! Really helps, I'm sure I'll have more later lol

[overtureZ]

Will this work for my boost gauge?

[MoulaZ]

Not what I would do, but yes. It will work.

[overtureZ]

Originally Posted by MoulaZ

Not what I would do, but yes. It will work.

Is the a better option, please share

[MoulaZ]

I'm not a fan of any gauges that require you to run lines from the source (boost, or oil pressure/temp for example) into the cabin. Not only is it a pain in the *** as it is just getting smaller electric cables into the cabin, but source lines are bigger, can kink or crush. Not to mention the risk of something goes wrong down the track you leak something from the gauge.

Much easier and safer to go with gauges paired with an electronic sender/sensor unit in the engine bay.

Side note: Me personally, I also would have the source coming into the middle of the 'T', not on either of the ends.

[turtle64b]

If you look at my picture, I have the line that comes off the manifold tapped for everything.

I tried to make a picture using text for explantaion but it didn't work...

From the manifold
1st 'T' is for BOV pressure
2nd 'T' is for the pressure transducer for boost pressure
Line ends at my fuel pressure regulator

[turtle64b]

I went with the Prosport Evos. Sorry it's not a great picture...

For boost, pressure goes to transducer, converts to electrical and comes into the cabin. AFR is same way.

[overtureZ]

Originally Posted by MoulaZ

I'm not a fan of any gauges that require you to run lines from the source (boost, or oil pressure/temp for example) into the cabin. Not only is it a pain in the *** as it is just getting smaller electric cables into the cabin, but source lines are bigger, can kink or crush. Not to mention the risk of something goes wrong down the track you leak something from the gauge.

Much easier and safer to go with gauges paired with an electronic sender/sensor unit in the engine bay.

Side note: Me personally, I also would have the source coming into the middle of the 'T', not on either of the ends.

I didn't want to spend a lot on gauges, I only daily drive never tracked and I doubt I will, I'm going to try and run the line as safely as possible, as for what I posted with the "T" fitting in the middle of the BOV line, that WILL work?

[overtureZ]

Hey guys, check out my other thread: ID1000cc Injectors Question, URGENT!

Ignore this ---- RESOLVED

[MoulaZ]

Originally Posted by overtureZ

I didn't want to spend a lot on gauges, I only daily drive never tracked and I doubt I will, I'm going to try and run the line as safely as possible, as for what I posted with the "T" fitting in the middle of the BOV line, that WILL work?

Even half decent, relatively cheap gauges can come with an electronic sender/sensor that sits in the engine bay. It's actually been a while since I've seen 'new models' that still come with the requirement to run the source line into the cabin.

As for what you did with the line, like I said earlier, yes it will work but just not something I'd personally do due to the aforementioned reasons.

[overtureZ]

This coolant hose is left over after installation, where does it go??

[turtle64b]

I think that's the one that goes to the "oil cooler." The sandwich plate that your oil filter screws into that circulates coolant around the oil for some "cooling." Check underneath at your oil filter to verify or the hardline assembly mounted close to the front of the oil pan for a male connector missing a hose.

[overtureZ]

Solved, I have a newer radiator overflow, it WAS attached to the bottom nipple of the overflow res.