I did notice that when I tried to clock the compressor side that it wouldn't turn very easy .. I didn't force it and just ended up mounting the turbo with the grease nipple on the side ... so far seems to be running great ... just have minor adjustments to the exhaust that will clear up last bit of vibration.

Precision was absolutely brutal when it came to this sort of stuff. I covered installation damages from my own pocket for customers on Precision turbos.

No matter what, they always say: "It's oil contamination, not our fault". I was getting fed up with them.

COMP has the same business and customer service values as Boosted Performance. For that reason, I will only offer COMP turbos with these kits, whether it is JB, BB, or oil-less turbos.

I was pretty surprised with being able to speak with them and how quickly their follow up was....especially with this situation. I heard from other people about different Turbo manufacturers getting a hold of anyone or even a return email is impossible, this is not the case with Comp. I will be confident running this turbo in the built longblock when I get it.

As a result of this incident, COMP will be adding grease to the O-ring that seals the compressor cover to the back plate. This will allow for the cover to rotate much easier once the bolts are loosened for clocking purposes.

Even with the rarest problems they're adapting their production methods to avoid future issues. Now that's a great company to do business with. No pointing fingers at the consumer or production/R&D line. They just adapt for the better.

That being said I was on the fence about this company due to their lack of exposure to our platform, but now after this thread I can see they care about their product and more importantly us customers.

Thanks for the update!

Absolutely!

I am really impressed with how this company handles themselves, and their customers. Unbelievable customer service, to go along with superb/fast communication.

How do we rotate the cover and avoid the issue ...mine wouldn't rotate easily so I didn't clock that side ..I should be able to get to the grease fitting still ..just looking for plan be if I can't.

Took the sparkplugs out and used my camera scope to see if I could see anything in the cylinders. Unfortunately I could not see the cylinder walls very good but did notice a small aluminum shard sitting on top of one the pistons. I took the intercooler off and noticed some larger shards of aluminum piled up in one corner. At this time I was hoping nothing substantial made it past the intercooler...............once I took my throttle bodies and inlet tubes off I noticed what I would consider a lot of metal dust stuck to the silicone couplers shown in the pics below.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4438/...2e44412b_k.jpg20170819_165923_1503282988297_resized by , on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4385/...e0eae3e4_k.jpg20170819_165837_1503282991441_resized by , on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4422/...567ef20c_k.jpg20170819_165826_1503282994651_resized by , on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4377/...136a515a_k.jpg20170819_165754_1503282996561_resized by , on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/...d766ee92_k.jpg20170819_165646_1503283002932_resized by , on Flickr

I drained the oil and did notice a somewhat glitter look to it or at least noticed tiny metal dots in the oil. I attempted to remove the oil pan but it did not want to budge and I certainly did not have the patience to mess with it today.

At this point I think the only thing I can do is literally remove the whole turbo kit and disassemble the BOV and Wastegates clean everything up, take the intercooler to a shop and have it ultrasonic cleaned in a tank and go from there.

I think I am at a point now though that I may end up just selling everything at a loss and buying a sweet minivan. I have had a rash of bad luck and unfortunate things happen that make me think it is just not meant to be :(
What do you all think?

*Boosted Performance turbo (turn key kit) (fits VQ35HR)
*Haltech Platinum Pro with VQ35HR harness, Haltech IO Expander 12, Haltech Boost Selenoid, AEM 5.2bar MAP sensor and Haltech Wideband controller with 2 Bosch Widebands.
*Southbend Stage 3 Daily (quiet disk option) with Southbend DXD flywheel
*ZSPEED HD slave cylinder SS lines
*Wilwood HD Clutch master cylinder with SS lines
*Osiris Tuner
*Osiris Standard (this was before I purchased the turbo kit)
*AEM UEGO AF gauge
*AEM Boost gauge
*Greddy Profec B boost controller
*3.5 VLSD diff 50k miles
*Z1 3in single exit exhaust

I'm sure I am missing some other items.

I will get the turbo tomorrow evening to check it out and see what was replaced.

Did you consider sending an oil sample off to get analyzed? Just for scientific proof? I know it doesn't make much difference at this point. Sorry man :(

It didn't cross my mind at the time, I still have the oil in the container but I don't think a sample is even needed at this point lol. No worries, this stuff happens...........you never know I may end up buying a GTR when this is all said and done.

Sorry yo hear that

Knuckles; Vacuum & flush that thing out good.
Don't hang your head,as this is very mild compared to some hard steel parts.
I'd pull all plugs,upper & lower plenum & vacuum it out well...this was new aluminum-so it will be easy to see & remove.
Also back-blow & flush intercooler & piping in a reverse fashion.
Clean maf's & change oil after initial break-in.
I would not remove oil pan.
Keep Your Head Up & Think Positive!!!

I agree with Hammond, clean it all up real good and go with it.

It not really as bad as it seems. I've had broken valve heads, piston lands, ring sections, and all types of stuff go thru my engine top end after drag racing for 25 plus years. These engines can tolerate a lot of debris, and still run perfectly.

Haven't had anything this bad yet! But I'm on the keep ur head up train!! U bought a z probably because u love the cars it does suck, but if it were easy everyone would be running around boosted.


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You left out the $20k it costs. That's a huge factor.