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-   -   Engine Prep for TT kit w/ 105k (G37) (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/121409-engine-prep-tt-kit-w-105k-g37.html)

InitialC 05-03-2017 10:03 AM

Engine Prep for TT kit w/ 105k (G37)
 
Hello,

So, life has finally gotten to the point where I am about ready to pull the trigger on an FI TT kit for my 08 G37 Sport Coupe (6MT). I've been enjoying her up to this point with 105k miles on the dash. From reading threads, I gathered the a compression test may be a wise diagnostic before going for the install. I talked to a mod friendly dealer here in Chicago (Berman's) and the master tech said that I could do the compression test but he didn't think it would be necessary. He feels that the stock internals are solid and shouldn't be an issue. He DID however say that he thinks I should change my timing cover gaskets as the increases oil pressure from boost could cause them to blow or leak.

So I wanted to bring it to the community and ask for your thoughts/help; especially since there are wayyy more boosted Z's than G's.

Thanks!

Chuck33079 05-03-2017 10:10 AM

I'm not following the "increased oil pressure from boost" bit. The compression test is a good idea, as is an oil analysis. Other than that, you should be good to go.

Jayhovah 05-03-2017 10:11 AM

Get the compression/leak down test done.. you don't want to go through all the expense of TT'ing only to find out the motor wasn't healthy. And in the case it isn't, it will give you the option of swapping it out or rebuilding it... you'll be paying(or performing) the labor to drop the motor regardless to install the TT kit.

Never heard of upgrading the cover gaskets... interested to see if anyone else around here has had that done.

Jayhovah 05-03-2017 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 3648599)
I'm not following the "increased oil pressure from boost" bit. The compression test is a good idea, as is an oil analysis. Other than that, you should be good to go.

Good point... that doesn't make any sense.

InitialC 05-03-2017 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 3648599)
I'm not following the "increased oil pressure from boost" bit. The compression test is a good idea, as is an oil analysis. Other than that, you should be good to go.

I don't quite get it either. That's why I wanted to ask. What I was being told was that boost will increase pressure in the block. That pressure could weaken the timing cover gaskets....iono

InitialC 05-03-2017 10:14 AM

Also can you tell me more about the oil analysis? First I'm hearing of it. Forgive my ignorance.

Jayhovah 05-03-2017 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by InitialC (Post 3648607)
Also can you tell me more about the oil analysis? First I'm hearing of it. Forgive my ignorance.

Next oil change send a sample to this place:
Blackstone Labs

They can determine a lot about the health of your motor by analyzing your used oil.

Chuck33079 05-03-2017 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by InitialC (Post 3648605)
I don't quite get it either. That's why I wanted to ask. What I was being told was that boost will increase pressure in the block. That pressure could weaken the timing cover gaskets....iono

Never heard anything like that. The oil pump is the same, so I'm not sure how oil pressure could increase. Google Blackstone Labs. They'll tell you about how much wear is going on inside your motor.

TBatt 05-03-2017 10:31 AM

It could be that he is thinking about increased blow-by which will increase the block pressure but then again it is a positive ventilated system so I'm not so sure that it would happen.

One of my car buddies has a 1994 Supra with 225K miles on it and he is running 26psi of boost. I know it is NOT the same car but it is kind of the same situation. He takes very good care of his Supra but he does not baby it. At least not when I'm in it. 650Whp is WILD!

TBatt 05-03-2017 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by InitialC (Post 3648607)
Also can you tell me more about the oil analysis? First I'm hearing of it. Forgive my ignorance.

This how we learn, we ask questions.

+1 on Blackstone

Kris9884 05-03-2017 11:02 AM

The mechanic means the paper gaskets for the rear timing covers, they tend to leak or break over time and cause major oil pressure problems. I bet he just suggests you fix/upgrade them before modding as a just in case since sometimes they break other times they don't, complete hit and miss. This is a very very well documented problem on the earlier HR motors, I cant believe this doesn't ring a bell around here? The upgraded gaskets came out in 2011ish and later models and were metal instead of paper.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/g37-cou...erience-4.html

Spooler 05-03-2017 11:10 AM

I would suggest you think about one thing. The day that the motor slings a rod out the block. If you can afford to replace the engine after that, then proceed. If it were me I would rebuild the engine and upgrade the pistons/rods. That way you know you will be good. It does and will happen with turbo cars. It is just part of the game.

Chuck33079 05-03-2017 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler (Post 3648642)
I would suggest you think about one thing. The day that the motor slings a rod out the block. If you can afford to replace the engine after that, then proceed.

:iagree:

A $10,000 "Oh ****" fund is an absolute requirement.

Kris9884 05-03-2017 01:09 PM

I agree a safety net is welcomed with any build but, $10g's? That's a very safe figure. A used OEM motor is what, $2500 max? Another $2500 for all new seals/gaskets/fluids and installation, assuming he doesn't do his own work? Where's the other $5k coming from? What am I missing? If I had a blown VQ and $10g to blow, I would get a 2J.

Chuck33079 05-03-2017 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kris9884 (Post 3648678)
I agree a safety net is welcomed with any build but, $10g's? That's a very safe figure. A used OEM motor is what, $2500 max? Another $2500 for all new seals/gaskets/fluids and installation, assuming he doesn't do his own work? Where's the other $5k coming from? What am I missing? If I had a blown VQ and $10g to blow, I would get a 2J.

You're right, you can do it for $5k-ish. I priced it as "what would it cost to not have to replace this motor again", not what would it cost to throw in a used OEM shortblock.


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