Another BP turbo build
 

Thought I would bring this post from my journal over here as I'll be part of the FI crowd soon.

After lots of thought I've finally decided the Z will be getting boosted :yum:
She will continue to be my daily driver so I've got my fingers crossed everything goes smoothly.

For any of you with experience boosting the Z my ears are wide to all thoughts & experiences, any advice is much appreciated. Expecting a bit of an adventure here but the more I know going in the better. So, onto my parts list.

Updated: 07/25/17
Motor is staying stock (for now)
BP Single Turbo kit - COMP 800HP twin-scroll, TBB, etc.
HKS EVC-6 Boost Controller
GaleForce Premium A-Pillar
INNOVATE Boost / Wideband Gauge
AEM Wideband
CSF triple pass Radiator
Z1 34 row Oil Cooler
OS Giken GT Twin Disk Clutch
RJM Adjustable Pedal
ZSpeed CMAK CSC Delete *** Making an attempt to install the kit around this ***
Ecutek Software
PTP Lava Turbo bag
ARK Grip V2
Daily Tires: Michelin PS4S
Powder Coat going on IC piping
Heat wrapped hot side piping

As far as the tune I am on Ecutek already & will just need to hop on the dyno for a retune. Here is what I'm thinking as far as my maps are concerned;
At least until I work up some funds for an engine re-build I'm thinking of starting with something like a 6psi waste gate spring in. While I want to believe that I will control myself, I'm not so sure I can. If I am correct having the 6psi spring paired with the EBC should give me up to 12pounds of boost which should be PLENTY for now.
Again she's the daily driver so looking for conservative tune as far as timing, etc. Depending on what type of numbers we are seeing on the dyno may decide to go a little less conservative.
TUNE 1: SMOKEY TIRE MODE
Med or High boost – NO Traction Control (TC)
TUNE 2: TRAVEL / DAILY
Low boost (~6psi) – Ecutek TC
[TUNE W/NO BOOST CONTROLER??? This will allow me to have a safe map to use if the BC shoots the ****? Talk to Frank.]
TUNE 3: DAILY
Med boost (~8psi) – Ecutek TC
TUNE 4: RACE
High boost (~10-12psi) – Ecutek TC

Will follow up with updates! Goodies are showing up daily :excited:
http://www.the370z.com/members/zashb...re-goodies.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/zashb...e97071-ebc.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/zashb...f-radiator.jpg

Don't just rely on ceramic coating on hot parts. Coat and then wrap, or just use wrap.

Be mindful of your install and get a good tune, should be great for a DD. =)
It's always a good idea to have a beater though... once you DIY a turbo kit you will always tinker =)

Edit: Make sure your tuner has experience with boosted Zs... There are a lot of tuners that can tune an NA Z without blowing it up... The pool who can do the same with a boosted car is much smaller.

Edit#2: I see you're in baltimore(and referred to Frank) so I assume you are getting tuned at Hill's Garage... AFAIK they do have experience with boosted Z's and I have only heard good things.

Also, get some Thermotec sleeve for the wastegate lines. If you melt those, your car will be insanely fast for a few seconds, and then make a very expensive noise.

Channeling your inner solidus, eh? :tup:

Yeah, he had that really bite him in the ***. That's modifying cars for you - spend an extra $250 early in the build, or another $10k later.

For sure. Super nice guy, btw.... helped me test my laser jammers. Best cop on the forum!

Overall, it's a good idea to go completely overboard with heat protection. My engine compartment is so crinkly/shiny with the stuff that it looks like it's covered in aluminum foil to keep the aliens/government from reading its thoughts.

I do wonder about the turbo blanket though. Highly effective in keeping the heat from the turbine from damaging other things, but Corky Bell believe's that they significantly reduce the life of the turbo itself. This may be different in the case of the COMP since the bearings are ceramic and can handle a lot of heat... Just some food for thought. OP, I am not saying you should go without it... That is another thing solidus found out the hard way when the heat from his turbine melted his engine wiring harness. That guy has had some bad luck.

CB is always right about everything, but I'd rather have to rebuild a turbo than rewire a car. Also, his definition of hard use and mine are miles apart. I'm sure it does reduce turbo life, but on a street car where you blast through a few gears and then cruise I'll bet it's negligible. I had the turbo wrapped on my old STI for a long time, and never had any issues. I would bag a water-cooled turbo in a heartbeat. An old oil-cooled one, not so much.

Indeed, Sasha just told me the same thing. Original I thought ceramic coating would do the job. Think I will just be wrapping it

Well said lol. This is a perfect example of those little things I was looking to find out BEFORE the install. Many thanks to you sir :tiphat:

Right on... I still think about doing it for mine and was getting ready to order a pair when I saw Bell's commentary. Are your twins currently snuggied?

OP - sorry for the hijack... but all the best discussion happens in FI subforum build threads =)

Nope, there's not a whole lot of room under the heat shields. They're coated, and everything aft is now wrapped. I had just coated stuff, and when I had my clutch replaced things were starting to get a little crispy.

How many miles between tender and crispy? Last time I inspected things looked good, but it had only been 10k miles.

20k-ish maybe?

Thanks... I will keep an eye on it. Any quantifiable or even feel-only results on the ceramic coating? My hotsides are still beautiful bare burnt orange cast iron.

It's hard to tell with as hot as these run. It might be cooler. It might also just look cooler since everything's black. The placebo effect is still an effect, dammit.

OP, where's your wideband O2 in your list? Did I miss it? Also, I have never felt good about using a EBC as your only boost gauge. If the ebc fails, I'd like to know how much boost I'm running.

Also, you might want to go with a stiffer spring in the wastegate. Even if it's marked at a certain psi, there's enough of a variance that it might not actually be the desired pressure.

Let us know how the CMAK goes. There's been some questions on if it'll fit or not with the BP kit.

I could of sworn you are not suppose to wrap ceramic coated things. By insulating the ceramic layer, you make too much heat and it flakes off.

If I were to wrap my pipes again, I would add probably 2 tubes of high temp RTV in strategic area to help hole the wrap in place. Of course you would band the wrap or safety wire it too.

I DD my Z. Gremlins pop up here and there. It gets a little tricking to diagnose and find the problem. Keep that in mind. I boosted my car a little over 39k and now have 56+ k on her.

As for installing the snail then hopping on the dyno for re-tune. Well, you have to get towed there as replacing your injectors and upgrading the pump changes thing up so it won't run right until it's tuned for it.

Start asking around for if you can borrow a car in case you don't finish. Trust me on this one. Crap happens with a regular install with a good kit. Imagine trying to do it with a CSC delete. Something nobody has tried. You might have to come up with something new or undo something to make things work.

Have extra $$ laying around for fixing gremlins. They will pop up.

My car is set up with 6.5-7lbs boost with no EBC. However, I always have my EBC on as it's also my boost gauge. My EBC is capable of 2 settings. I set the first setting at 7.25 lbs and drive that as my DD setting. The EBC/solenoid controls boost a lot better then a spring. It's more linear and smooth. My tune is tuned at 12lbs max. My second setting is set at 11.5lbs which happen to be my "fun" setting. Reason for this is because I want a small buffer in case the EBC got funky. My EBC has a "overboost protection" when I set at 11.7 or something. When the EBC registers 11.7 lbs, it opens up and vents the compressed air and drops the psi back down to spring setting. The EBC wont activate the solenoid until it registers a psi drop so you cant boost again until you let off the gas (if you leave your foot down, it will continue to spin the snail and take probaly forever to drop psi low enough for it to say "ok it safe to work regular again").

Invest in lot of hand tools and a battery impact gun. It saves lots of time and energy when you work on the car. Also have a good light of some sort.

YzGyz

I got a kick out of that one :icon18: Absolutely will do on the heat management, I'm currently making a list of everything that I hadn't already thought of. Goes without saying that I want to do everything I can to prevent running into similar problems.

I was a bit skeptical about the blanket myself. But, my thought is with max 12lbs of boost there won't be enough heat accumulation at the turbine for the bag to actually be problematic. & as long as It's not reaching any critical temps it should just be like any other heat cycle...? Idk. I guess only time will tell.

Frank will actually be doing the install & the tune for me. As an engineering student it kind of kills me not to do the install myself as this whole get up here is a wonderful real world application of concepts in many of my courses (thermo, fluids, heat & mass transfer, process control, etc...) and well, I do love to put things together / see how they work. BUT Frank is just an amazing mechanic. He's done the install/tune on 2-3 BP turbo's already which, as far as I've heard, are all running flawlessly. Because this is my only ride I want everything done perfectly, and I trust him a lot more than I trust myself. Very glad that I have him close by for the tune as well; Great guy and his work is outstanding.

Also NBD. If its talk about the Z's it's on topic as far as I'm concerned.

Copy that on the spring. Nope you did not miss it. I was trying to get away with just the SGC-1 (which has the built in wideband & boost pressure) for a while before swapping out the 3 factory gauges for an aftermarket oil temp, wideband, and boost (or something of that sort)

I was under the assumption that the EBC was a fail-open type of thing. That being said I wanted to get a map set up with the BC off, this if things ever start acting fishy (say, the EBC is failing) I have a back to the basics fallback which relies solely on spring pressure. Your thoughts? I have yet to talk to my tuner about this so I'm also interested in what he will have to say.

10-4. Plan on making a post with the details after the install. Happy to provide a definitive answer for everyone as I spent hours trying to figure this out myself.

Yeah decided against the ceramic coating, no real noteworthy benefits - according to a few solid sources.

I actually decided against a self install. I think I mentioned in another comment, I am a bit disappointed in myself for not doing it, but I really want perfection here and I have a fantastic local mechanic here who has worked a lot with this kit. Deciding factor was that my garage/non-rental property/tools etc are all up in NY where I would have no-one to trouble shoot with. Plus I would have to hike all the way back down here to get it tuned.

Already have a growing fund in preparation for gremlins etc. Hopefully it won't be needed for a while and can continue to grow into my "oh sh*t my engine just blew" fund.

Thanks for the info! Especially your EBC approach / failsafes... looking for a very similar set up, I will be adding these to the list to talk to my tuner about.

5/22 Progress
 

Got my first package from Sasha and started with the DEI heat wrap...
http://www.the370z.com/members/zashb...-bp-piping.jpg

In the mean time i've been trying to keep myself distracted by sprucing up the interior:
- GTR Start button
- PWD JDM v2 weighted knob
- AEM Analog Oil Pressure Gauge
- Lenovo Yoga tab 3 tablet w/ the PLX KIWI 3
- Reshaped flat-bottom wheel, Big thanks to Tony @ Carbon Fiber Elements for a great deal / beautiful product.

http://www.the370z.com/members/zashb...s-test-fit.jpg

Subbing to this. Really hoping the CMAK works out because that would be a game changer.

He's not the only one "attempting" the delete with a BP kit. I'm the other Zach with almost identical build sheet. Frank assured me that it wouldn't be to difficult to fabricate the pipe to go around the delete.

Subbed for cmak fitment lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Current dilemma: Will the CMAK fit the OS Giken clutch?? If anyone has successfully done this please let me know.

If it is not compatible I have to switch to an OS Giken delete & will be letting many down as far as knowing the CMAK fitment. Although... the OS delete is placed in the about the same spot as the CMAK, very similar in size, just slightly altered orientation. So either way I will be sure to take pictures and document how everything goes.

If I had some good pictures of how the CMAK is installed, or how/where it sits exactly, I could look in to making changes to the first pipe to make it fit.

Ur the man!!! Anyone got pics of an installed cmak?


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Thanks Sasha, that would be super helpful. Sending a few your way now & I'll get some more detailed ones next time I'm up on the lift

So what has become of this? Did the CMAK work?

Results on bypassing the CSC delete
 

Time frame got set back a bit, sorry about that.

We didn't know if the CMAK would work properly with the OS Giken clutch so I swapped to the Os Giken delete. That being said both delete kits are positioned and sized relatively the same.

The answer to the question is yes it will fit, but with modification. Hill's Garage had a pipe made for it. Cost about $100. They said it would be no problem after looking at the car.

The first piece that comes out of the turbine and around the transmission housing remained unmolested. The second piece, which was 2.25 to 2.5 if I remember correctly, we got rid of. The third pipe we cut back a little to give some extra space. To replace the second pipe we got rid of we now have a 2.25 inch pipe which attaches to the first unmolested pipe up to the third we cut back, with a 90 degree 2.25 to 2.5 inch coupler.

Attached are some pictures. First 4 are from my car; Second 4 are some I just snapped of the other BP turbo build they have going on. A little easier to see on this car as the fabricated pipe isn't yet painted. If anyone has any questions or have a specific angle or view they would like me to snap a picture of let me know. Hope this will help.

http://www.the370z.com/members/zashb...3-img-5878.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/zashb...0-img-2702.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/zashb...1-img-1007.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/zashb...2-img-1068.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/zashb...7-img-0769.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/zashb...6-img-8238.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/zashb...5-img-4973.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/zashb...4-img-5558.jpg