Turtle64b's Stillen Build Thread

[Kzonts]

Nice work!

[Jayhovah]

You work fast!

[TBatt]

Don't be alarmed at the rattling sound of the SC. It is normal for it to sound like it has marbles in it. Really! The gear drive has backlash by design and when the engine idles the SC has no load on it and the engine does not run at a perfect constant rpm so you get a rattling sound. As soon as the SC accelerates or has a load on it the gear backlash is taken up and all you should hear is the beautiful whine of the SC intake.

[TBatt]

The silicone coupler coming out of the intercooler looks to be partially collapsed. I remember it being a bit of a pain to get right. I would take it back off and spray the joints with windex and reinstall. That is how TopZ told me to do it and it works!

[Jayhovah]

Originally Posted by TBatt

The silicone coupler coming out of the intercooler looks to be partially collapsed. I remember it being a bit of a pain to get right. I would take it back off and spray the joins with windex and reinstall. That is how TopZ told me to do it and it works!

Lubricant of some kind makes a huge difference! If you don't have windex around the house, I just used water with a little bit of dish soap when I did all my IC piping.

[ChaseZ]

Unless you have solid motor mounts make sure that Relay box has enough clearance for when the engine torques over. The blower is going to move that way too, it isn't static.

On that note make sure there is clearance between the Stillen intake and the strut bar for when it torques as well.

A smoke test isn't a bad idea. Otherwise carb cleaner sprayed on the joints while it's idling can help track down leaks.

Catch can is a really good idea. Not sure if you added it or not but don't see on the list so mentioning it. You should see the crap that comes out of one once boosted.

Some sewing machine oil can lubricate that BOV if needed.

Take video

[Staples]

Originally Posted by TBatt

Don't be alarmed at the rattling sound of the SC. It is normal for it to sound like it has marbles in it. Really! The gear drive has backlash by design and when the engine idles the SC has no load on it and the engine does not run at a perfect constant rpm so you get a rattling sound. As soon as the SC accelerates or has a load on it the gear backlash is taken up and all you should hear is the beautiful whine of the SC intake.

Similar to the Rotrex setup. If you increase the idle 200rpms, it makes a huge difference. Mine runs at 850rpms instead of the stock 650.

[turtle64b]

BOV flange arrived this morning! Had some friends over to double check my work and be there when I turned the engine over just in case.

Results:
I'm pretty sure I have a vacuum leak due to the engine idling at a rough 1000ish RPM.
Idle fuel pressure right now is about 40 psi. I'm pretty sure I need to up it to around 60 if I read right on another thread.
No codes!!!!
I hate that damn marble sound!!! Please listen to the video of close to the SC and verify that it sounds alright. The seller replaced all four bearings so I initially thought something may be off-balance, but if that's the normal sound, that's the normal sound haha. I'll look into raising the idle, but the sound is present at 1000 RPM...
No fuel leaks at 40 psi.
No coolant leaks.
Meters track with chart.
The car is currently in limp mode due to a wiring mix-up. I'm letting the spark plugs dry out after a couple unsuccessful starts and I will start it again in the morning.
I will also get some windex on the partially collapsed coupler to maneuver it and un-collapse it.

The wiring mix-up was me putting the wrong extension in the wrong spot. I connected the throttle body to the MAF and vice versa...

Link to album:
https://goo.gl/photos/6wexurgWYzweWzYw7

[ChaseZ]

Low 50's psi fuel pressure

[wideglideleon]

Sebastian had me set it at 51psi with out the vacuum line hooked up to the regulator.
Your work is looking good, you'll have a blast with it believe me. Going SC its a whole different ride.

[turtle64b]

Turns out when you unsuccessfully try to start the car a couple times, it doesn't want to try anymore. I let it sit overnight and came back to it this morning. I've posted the resultant videos of the engine bay cold idle, dash cold and warm idle, SC noise, and the current exhaust note at idle.

Fuel pressure set to 50-52 psi as recommended. I thought the purpose of hooking the vacuum line to the regulator was to give you more pressure at boost to accommodate the increased air pressure.

Vacuum is lower than it was the first time I started it up (-18/19 vice -22/23 the first time), so I'll start looking for leaks.

Question: Do you guys think that the canned Stillen tune will be sufficient to make the car driveable?

I want to take it around the block just to see if it drives OK, but being this is my first boosted car and I did it myself, I want to yield to the wisdom of others. I have a cable with the UpRev Osiris standard license that came with the kit, but the UpRev website states that the standard license does not support boosted applications...

Again, I appreciate all the help!!!

The videos are at the end of the album, so you can skip past the build pictures to the end.
https://goo.gl/photos/6wexurgWYzweWzYw7

[TBatt]

You can limp the car around but driving isn't going to be fun with the Stillen tune. Mine ran absolutely terrible until I got my base tune from Seb and then, OH WOW!

Vacuum will be lower because you have a blower pushing air into the intake. Even at idle speed the SC will push more air than the engine would normally breathe in and that is why it will run crappy until you get the correct tune.

Be patient and don't rush things at this point.

Yes, the vacuum/boost line to the regulator will keep the pressure at the set point when boost builds.

Your SC does sound different than mine. At least what I can hear through your video. They are noisy at low rpm. Once the hood is closed you can't hear it very much.

[turtle64b]

Originally Posted by TBatt

You can limp the car around but driving isn't going to be fun with the Stillen tune. Mine ran absolutely terrible until I got my base tune from Seb and then, OH WOW!

Vacuum will be lower because you have a blower pushing air into the intake. Even at idle speed the SC will push more air than the engine would normally breathe in and that is why it will run crappy until you get the correct tune.

Be patient and don't rush things at this point.

Yes, the vacuum/boost line to the regulator will keep the pressure at the set point when boost builds.

Your SC does sound different than mine. At least what I can hear through your video. They are noisy at low rpm. Once the hood is closed you can't hear it very much.

What do you mean by different? haha. I have some belt slip cold, but once it warms up it goes away for the most part. I will be ordering another SC belt since there is a small amount of cracking in the ribs. Is there another spot I could get sound for you to compare?

I have no intention of stomping on it or even driving it hard by any definition of the word. I want to test the driveability so that I can be somewhat confident in the ability of the car to make the drive up to Charlotte to SOHO for the tune.

By running terrible, could you be more specific? Again, I have no intention of even breaking 3500 RPM if I can help it until a professional tune is done.

Thank you!

[turtle64b]

I've added some videos from the driveway.

Side note, I have a very noticeable vibration in reverse now . I don't know what is causing it yet and it gets notably louder if I'm turning the wheels hard...

When the wife gets home, I'll get some more video for sound and may some diagnostics.

Again, please just scroll to the end of the album for videos and sounds.

Thanks!!

https://goo.gl/photos/6wexurgWYzweWzYw7

[ChaseZ]

I wouldn't drive at all on that tune. Not even a little