Turtle64b's Stillen Build Thread

[turtle64b]

Originally Posted by TBatt

In case you haven't run wires yet from the dash to the engine compartment, on the passenger side of the engine compartment is a big rubber seal where the wiring harness passes through. That is where I ran all of my wires to the engine for my gauge install and also a small rubber hose for the boost gauge.

Looking good!

I ran everything just like this except I left the pressure sensor in the battery compartment and ran the signal wire through to the meter.

[turtle64b]

Day 3.75?

Reconnected all electrical connectors to reconnect the battery to op-check the meters. Both meters seemed to respond normally!

The fuel pump though... I hear the relay click for the fuel pump, but I don't hear any sounds from the vicinity of the gas tank. Should the pump spin up when the car is on (I'm not turning over the engine yet)? I installed the Aeromotive wiring kit that runs the 10ga wire from the battery to the pump and I'm 98% sure that I wired the connector properly (I also installed the billet tophat). I have the Aeromotive Stealth 340lph pump.

The rest of the parts should be here Tuesday for me to wrap this project up!

For now

[ChaseZ]

Yes you should hear the pump in ON without the engine running. You didn't put a fuel pressure gauge in I take it?

[turtle64b]

Originally Posted by ChaseZ

Yes you should hear the pump in ON without the engine running. You didn't put a fuel pressure gauge in I take it?

I do have one that taps off of the regulator in the engine bay. I didn't see any pressure on it. The pressure regulator is backed out all the way at the moment, so I don't know exactly what pressure to expect, just "minimum." I'll give it another go in the morning and verify. I'll also take a multi-meter to the new power circuit to ensure that there is not an open somewhere.

[turtle64b]

Fuel pump gremlin:
The relay clicks and voltage (~12V) is present at the connector into the gas tank. Relay is only energized for about two seconds. Pump never sounds like it's running, even during the ~2 sec that voltage is present.
Ground wire is connected to a good ground, as verified by checking resistance to the negative terminal of my sub amplifier (<0.5 ohms).
Next step is to direct connect the fuel pump connector to the battery momentarily to determine if it's the power circuit to the pump or the wiring internal to the fuel tank.

Crank pulley:
Bolt came off surprisingly easy. I braced the crank pulley against the engine and gronked on the bolt to break it free. Oil came out of the bolt hole, which I assume is OK.
New AMS lightweight crank pulley is installed and torqued to 30 ft-lbs plus ~90 degrees.

Coolant overflow relocation:
I think the overflow bottle is different from the Stillen supplied one. If you look at the pictures, I'm curious as to how to route the coolant hose that used to be attached to the bottom of the stock reservoir to the bottom of the new reservoir. I'm thinking that I'm gonna grab some tubing from Autozone and go from there.

1/4 inch boost line:
I've gotta grab some tubing for this and another T-fitting to route manifold pressure to the boost meter as well as the fuel regulator. How did you guys make this work? The Prosport tubing does not take to stretching well and there is no supplied tubing to connect the fuel pressure regulator to the manifold...

I had to mount the SC to the engine for posterity's sake... Nothing is tightened down, I just wanted to see what the end result would look similar to haha.
I went through 3 Dremel cutting wheels to clear the pinch weld for the flipped volute. I'll verify clearance once I'm ready to tighten down.

Pictures Link:
https://goo.gl/photos/6wexurgWYzweWzYw7

[TopgunZ]

Is that new crank pulley the same exact size as the oem one you took off?

[ChaseZ]

Originally Posted by turtle64b

Fuel pump gremlin:
The relay clicks and voltage (~12V) is present at the connector into the gas tank. Relay is only energized for about two seconds. Pump never sounds like it's running, even during the ~2 sec that voltage is present.
Ground wire is connected to a good ground, as verified by checking resistance to the negative terminal of my sub amplifier (<0.5 ohms).
Next step is to direct connect the fuel pump connector to the battery momentarily to determine if it's the power circuit to the pump or the wiring internal to the fuel tank.

I had a similar problem come up with my pump. Ended up being a ground that came loose in the basket assembly. The weight of the plastic connector that has the dust boot supplied by Aeromotive was putting slight constant pressure downwards in the wiring going to the underside of the hat, and the ground wire fitting got just loose enough for a poor connection.

When I out it together initially I'd wrapped the wiring up nicely and ziptied it to this OCD thought it looked nice and clean, but that ended up being the cause of the problem. I put a new connector on and left the wiring loose so nothing had any weight at all on it. Looked sloppy but out it all back together and worked like a charm.

Symptoms were similar to what you're describing.

[ChaseZ]

Oh and you don't need to remove the OEM coolant overflow with the A/A. Mine was already gone so will have to decide if I want to relocate the Stillen one or fab up some brackets to out the OEM one back since my tabs were all cut off for the old charge pipe. That line you're talking about to the bottom of the OEM tank I cut and capped off in the drivers side of the engine. If you're leaving the OEM tank you can run it under the SC mounting bracket.

[TBatt]

Take a look at my install. I'm using the stock coolant tank.

[TBatt]

Originally Posted by turtle64b

Fuel pump gremlin:
The relay clicks and voltage (~12V) is present at the connector into the gas tank. Relay is only energized for about two seconds. Pump never sounds like it's running, even during the ~2 sec that voltage is present.

If i remember correctly when I was chasing a fuel pump problem, when you turn the ignition on the pump will run a couple of seconds and then shutoff. It will not run again until the engine turns over.

You probably won't hear the pump until it is primed and has some pressure on it. You can always hook a hose to the outlet and see if it is pumping.

I'm old and may be wrong....

[turtle64b]

Thank you all for the input!

Topz: The pulley size is the same where the belt contacts the pulley. The AMS pulley is slightly larger in overall diameter but has a little deeper groove than OEM.

Chase: I was really hoping to not have to pull the assembly back out lol but I kinda figured that was where I was headed. I'll skip the direct connect part and just pull the assembly to have a looksie tomorrow or Wednesday, thanks!

TBatt: My overflow tank looks different from yours... I kinda like the look of this new one too! The line seems to run fine underneath and with some extra tubing, I think I can safely clear the belt and pulleys to get it to the new tank. Also, I do only expect the pump to run for a few seconds, but it's not running at all...

Thanks again guys!

[ChaseZ]

They changed the tanks somewhere along the way. Mine is the same as yours.

I was hoping not to remove the assembly too, but once I came to terms with it, pulling it is really only a ten minute job it's just a bit of a pain is all. If your Relay is engerzing, which clearly it is, then pretty safe bet the problem is past that point. Even after diagnosing the loose ground in there I still bench tested the pump just to be sure before dropping the assembly back in.

[TBatt]

I found it easiest to remove the passenger seat when working on the fuel pump. One word of caution is that if you do not have the seat cables connected and turn the ignition on the airbag warning will be set and you may have to go the dealer to reset it unless you have a really good scan reset tool.

I'll be removing my fuel pump for more CJM mods soon.

[turtle64b]

Found that pesky fuel gremlin!!!

My buddy 1) pinched the power wire from the tophat connector to the fuel pump connector and 2) didn't push in the blue pin locking device for the in-tank connector to the tophat. A simple cut, strip and re-pin of the power and ground leads for the pump and the pump primes just fine now. I sealed the leak at the external filter (wasn't tight enough) and the fuel system is 100% ready to go. 20 lbs on the pressure gauge at the regulator fully backed out.

For the fuel pump assembly work, I moved the passenger seat all the way forward as well as leaning it all the way forward and it allows plenty of room to get in there. All you really need to do for the CJM stuff is get the assembly out of the tank. Most of the rest is done outside the car.

Should get the remainder of the conversion parts today, so my goal is to turn the engine over tomorrow or Thursday at the latest!

[turtle64b]

I have just about wrapped up the install! If you guys wouldn't mind asking me some questions about what I did to make sure that I know exactly what to check for, or just tell me lol, I would really appreciate it! I have lots of pictures from lots of angles and I will be more than happy to take more to get any feedback that I can to ensure first time success haha. I followed most of the instructions nearly to the 't'.

Things I didn't do:
Modify the driver's side relay box bracket. It has good clearance without drilling out the holes to shift it.
Install any air-water stuff. Don't need it!!
Install Stillen-supplied coolant reservoir. The OEM one fits fine and clears the belts.

Things that I did:
Installed new fuel injectors (ID 1050x's)
Installed new spark plugs (OEM GTR)
Installed CJM S1-SE fuel return system w/ pressure regulator
Installed Aeromotive Stealth 340lph fuel pump
Installed independent fuel pump wiring kit
Installed CJM billet fuel pump tophat
Installed Stillen SC kit
Installed Topgunz Air-Air conversion
Installed Prosport Evo AFR and boost meters

Checks I have done so far:
Fuel pump primes correctly
Fuel lines are leak checked
Meters energize and appear to work, but will need to check further when ready to turn the engine over.
Serpentine belt clears everything and every rib covers every applicable rib of the pulleys

Checks I intend to do:
Check air lines for leaks when ready to turn the engine over
Meter op-checks when motor is running
Noise check for anything abnormal sounding
Fuel line double check

I'm sure there are things that I am missing, so please back me up!

I appreciate all of the input that I have gotten so far, and my success is due in large part to all you fine folks!

Pictures:
https://goo.gl/photos/6wexurgWYzweWzYw7