Turtle64b's Stillen Build Thread

[turtle64b]

Originally Posted by Jayhovah

Sounds good! Looks like the future is bright for this build!

If you are trying to save in the short term, you can probably leave out the return fuel system since you are going to start out conservative, but stick with the 1000cc injectors and upgraded pump. The return system can be added later when you go for more power.

You might also consider going with the Walbro 450/485 vs Aeromotive 340.. you'll want the extra headroom when you go fully built. I also feel like I hear more about Aeromotive pumps failing, but that may just be my imagination.

These changes will work for you now while still giving you an upgrade path for more power in the future without upgrade existing parts. All of this is just my opinion =)

Much appreciated! Unfortunately the parts listed are already on the way...
I chose to go ahead with the S1-SE fuel return system based on the several threads I saw about running out of fuel on top.
I chose the Aeromotive 340 because it seemed to be what most were running and there some warnings on the Z1 website about going with bigger pumps at the risk of damage.
I chose the ID 1050Xs because the 725, 850 and 1000cc were all the same price. The 1050Xs were $10 more and boasted better technology. 1050cc injectors will, theoretically, hold fine to 700hp.
I chose to go with the billet tophat after reading stories about the stock plastic ones not holding up so well after modification.
The AMS lightweight pulley will help with some of the losses, I feel, due to the significantly reduced rotating mass. Future mod will most likely be the ATI damper pointed out earlier.

Where did you guys elect to put your meters/gauges? Those are actually the things I need to order and have yet to just because I know they'll get here before the build is done. I figure a dual gauge pod somewhere, but I'm unsure where... The A-pillar looks pretty cool, there was a pod that fit inboard on the passenger side for sale here awhile back, and I loved the DIY about changing out the time and voltage meter center stage there, but I don't really know yet haha.

Boost and AFR are the only ones I'm thinking on. I'm getting the mini fuel pressure gauge on the fuel line to tune that in. I know that more is better when it comes to keeping an eye on your engine, but I don't really want to turn the cabin into a cockpit haha. Although that might be cool... I have a solid OBDx thing that plugs into my OBD2 port and feeds data to an app, like Torque, but I don't know exactly how reliable that is.

Thank you all for all the input, I promise I am paying attention and trying to soak it all up!

-Brett

[turtle64b]

End of day 0.5! I got started a little early after talking a buddy into taking me to work on Monday haha.

Intake components/interference removed
New spark plugs in
Beginning assembly of fuel components to go into car

Small step but I only had about 3 hours...

Link to photo album:
https://goo.gl/photos/6wexurgWYzweWzYw7

[turtle64b]

Day 0.75? Assembled fuel components, removed fascia pieces and fitted new gauges. how did you guys install your AFR and boost meters/gauges. I went Prosport EVO 52mm and I'm putting them in the cubby. I am unsure how to wire them up, especially the boost meter because the wires seem so short . Any tips?

[TBatt]

For mounting gauges in a Z, Galeforce is who you need to check into. Fantastic workmanship.

Custom A-Pillar gauge pod - lots of pictures

[shadow85]

Sorry I already PMd you about this before I saw you had a thread open. So might aswell ask you here so everyone can have a discussion.

Are you planning any upgrades to the 7AT gearbox?

[acorona370]

Si Impeller ? sorry if i missed it and you're going with the 1050x injectors E85?

[turtle64b]

TBatt: I have a cubby pod already for the new meters, I was just wondering how you guys wired them in to the car. The boost meter wires seem rather short for where they have to go... A custom A-pillar is a little out of my price range at the moment .

Shadow: I am planning on upgrading the 7AT, I just don't know when yet. I will keep the tune conservative until then to ensure that I do not exceed the limits of stock. And if it does fail, I'll just have more ammo to convince the wife that I need a new tranny haha.

Acorona: I will keep the stock impeller for now as well. I am running the 1050x's to leave room for expansion as well as to ensure that I have good flow down low. I am sticking with 93 octane for now.

Thanks guys for the questions and input!

[TBatt]

I had to lengthen the wires on my oil pressure gauge but not my AFR/Boost gauge. I just soldered extension wires and covered up the solder joint with heat shrink tubing. You could also use crimp splices if you are not comfortable with soldering.

This is my gauge install using the GaleForce cubby mount. I'm using AEM guages, 0-150psi oil and their Failsafe AFR/Boost gauge. I really like the fact that the failsafe gauge is always recording data in two hour files. If I ever have an issue with AFR (bad pump, which HAS HAPPENED ALREADY) I can at least get a clue to what happened. Simple USB hookup to my laptop to download AFR, Boost, RPM and plot it.

Good luck with your build, we are watching over you. Reach out to us if you need help.

[turtle64b]

End of day three. Tired, fingers hurt...

Fuel system installed aside from pinning the pump assembly connector.
Fuel pump wiring upgrade install done aside from aforementioned task.
Meters installed 100%. Dash restored.
MAF/TB extensions installed.

Tomorrow/over the next week:
Mount intake manifold
Mount SC
Install A2A conversion upon arrival
Flash and (hopefully) drive up to SOHO for the tune.

Pictures link:
https://goo.gl/photos/6wexurgWYzweWzYw7

Do you guys think that with an upgraded Uprev license (standard I believe) that I can make the car able to drive three straight hours? Also, does anyone have an AFR meter with a control module? If so, where did you mount/put the module?

Thanks!!

-Brett

[TBatt]

It may just be me, but the fuel pump part of my install was the hardest part!

You are down hill the rest of the way!

Take your time and double check everything! Use WINDEX to install the silicone couplers and then go back and check every single one of the clamps to make sure that you tightened them.

[turtle64b]

Day 3.5:

Fuel system verified tight (pump still needs wired)
Intake manifold and throttle bodies installed
Coolant hoses and radiator fan assembly removed in preparation for crank pulley swap
Throttle body coolant bypass accomplished.

Intercooler arrived today, thanks Topz! I was very excited to see the UPS dude walking up my driveway haha.

That intake manifold install is literally the most tedious thing I have done in my life to date! WOW!

Also, following directions and not getting ahead of yourself is very important here haha...

Pictures:
https://goo.gl/photos/6wexurgWYzweWzYw7

[ScottM]

The blue intake and TB's are gonna look sweet when she is all done turtle

[TBatt]

In case you haven't run wires yet from the dash to the engine compartment, on the passenger side of the engine compartment is a big rubber seal where the wiring harness passes through. That is where I ran all of my wires to the engine for my gauge install and also a small rubber hose for the boost gauge.

Looking good!

[Jayhovah]

Originally Posted by TBatt

In case you haven't run wires yet from the dash to the engine compartment, on the passenger side of the engine compartment is a big rubber seal where the wiring harness passes through. That is where I ran all of my wires to the engine for my gauge install and also a small rubber hose for the boost gauge.

Looking good!

You ran a pressure line into the cabin for your gauge? Mechanical gauge?

[TBatt]

Originally Posted by Jayhovah

You ran a pressure line into the cabin for your gauge? Mechanical gauge?

AEM FailSafe AFR/Boost gauge. The sensor is on the gauge itself so you have to run a very small hose to the intake manifold and tee it with the BOV hose.