Originally Posted by TBatt In case you haven't run wires yet from the dash to the engine compartment, on the passenger side of the engine compartment is a big rubber
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05-04-2017, 05:44 PM | #31 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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05-07-2017, 07:00 PM | #32 (permalink) |
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Day 3.75?
Reconnected all electrical connectors to reconnect the battery to op-check the meters. Both meters seemed to respond normally! The fuel pump though... I hear the relay click for the fuel pump, but I don't hear any sounds from the vicinity of the gas tank. Should the pump spin up when the car is on (I'm not turning over the engine yet)? I installed the Aeromotive wiring kit that runs the 10ga wire from the battery to the pump and I'm 98% sure that I wired the connector properly (I also installed the billet tophat). I have the Aeromotive Stealth 340lph pump. The rest of the parts should be here Tuesday for me to wrap this project up! For now |
05-07-2017, 09:08 PM | #34 (permalink) |
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I do have one that taps off of the regulator in the engine bay. I didn't see any pressure on it. The pressure regulator is backed out all the way at the moment, so I don't know exactly what pressure to expect, just "minimum." I'll give it another go in the morning and verify. I'll also take a multi-meter to the new power circuit to ensure that there is not an open somewhere.
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05-08-2017, 12:08 PM | #35 (permalink) |
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Day 4
Fuel pump gremlin:
The relay clicks and voltage (~12V) is present at the connector into the gas tank. Relay is only energized for about two seconds. Pump never sounds like it's running, even during the ~2 sec that voltage is present. Ground wire is connected to a good ground, as verified by checking resistance to the negative terminal of my sub amplifier (<0.5 ohms). Next step is to direct connect the fuel pump connector to the battery momentarily to determine if it's the power circuit to the pump or the wiring internal to the fuel tank. Crank pulley: Bolt came off surprisingly easy. I braced the crank pulley against the engine and gronked on the bolt to break it free. Oil came out of the bolt hole, which I assume is OK. New AMS lightweight crank pulley is installed and torqued to 30 ft-lbs plus ~90 degrees. Coolant overflow relocation: I think the overflow bottle is different from the Stillen supplied one. If you look at the pictures, I'm curious as to how to route the coolant hose that used to be attached to the bottom of the stock reservoir to the bottom of the new reservoir. I'm thinking that I'm gonna grab some tubing from Autozone and go from there. 1/4 inch boost line: I've gotta grab some tubing for this and another T-fitting to route manifold pressure to the boost meter as well as the fuel regulator. How did you guys make this work? The Prosport tubing does not take to stretching well and there is no supplied tubing to connect the fuel pressure regulator to the manifold... I had to mount the SC to the engine for posterity's sake... Nothing is tightened down, I just wanted to see what the end result would look similar to haha. I went through 3 Dremel cutting wheels to clear the pinch weld for the flipped volute. I'll verify clearance once I'm ready to tighten down. Pictures Link: https://goo.gl/photos/6wexurgWYzweWzYw7 |
05-08-2017, 12:50 PM | #36 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Is that new crank pulley the same exact size as the oem one you took off?
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05-08-2017, 01:47 PM | #37 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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Quote:
When I out it together initially I'd wrapped the wiring up nicely and ziptied it to this OCD thought it looked nice and clean, but that ended up being the cause of the problem. I put a new connector on and left the wiring loose so nothing had any weight at all on it. Looked sloppy but out it all back together and worked like a charm. Symptoms were similar to what you're describing. |
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05-08-2017, 01:52 PM | #38 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Oh and you don't need to remove the OEM coolant overflow with the A/A. Mine was already gone so will have to decide if I want to relocate the Stillen one or fab up some brackets to out the OEM one back since my tabs were all cut off for the old charge pipe. That line you're talking about to the bottom of the OEM tank I cut and capped off in the drivers side of the engine. If you're leaving the OEM tank you can run it under the SC mounting bracket.
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05-08-2017, 02:59 PM | #39 (permalink) |
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Take a look at my install. I'm using the stock coolant tank.
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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE! |
05-08-2017, 03:05 PM | #40 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
You probably won't hear the pump until it is primed and has some pressure on it. You can always hook a hose to the outlet and see if it is pumping. I'm old and may be wrong....
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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE! |
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05-08-2017, 07:18 PM | #41 (permalink) |
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Thank you all for the input!
Topz: The pulley size is the same where the belt contacts the pulley. The AMS pulley is slightly larger in overall diameter but has a little deeper groove than OEM. Chase: I was really hoping to not have to pull the assembly back out lol but I kinda figured that was where I was headed. I'll skip the direct connect part and just pull the assembly to have a looksie tomorrow or Wednesday, thanks! TBatt: My overflow tank looks different from yours... I kinda like the look of this new one too! The line seems to run fine underneath and with some extra tubing, I think I can safely clear the belt and pulleys to get it to the new tank. Also, I do only expect the pump to run for a few seconds, but it's not running at all... Thanks again guys! |
05-08-2017, 07:37 PM | #42 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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They changed the tanks somewhere along the way. Mine is the same as yours.
I was hoping not to remove the assembly too, but once I came to terms with it, pulling it is really only a ten minute job it's just a bit of a pain is all. If your Relay is engerzing, which clearly it is, then pretty safe bet the problem is past that point. Even after diagnosing the loose ground in there I still bench tested the pump just to be sure before dropping the assembly back in. |
05-09-2017, 11:50 AM | #43 (permalink) |
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I found it easiest to remove the passenger seat when working on the fuel pump. One word of caution is that if you do not have the seat cables connected and turn the ignition on the airbag warning will be set and you may have to go the dealer to reset it unless you have a really good scan reset tool.
I'll be removing my fuel pump for more CJM mods soon.
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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE! |
05-09-2017, 12:55 PM | #44 (permalink) |
Track Member
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Found that pesky fuel gremlin!!!
My buddy 1) pinched the power wire from the tophat connector to the fuel pump connector and 2) didn't push in the blue pin locking device for the in-tank connector to the tophat. A simple cut, strip and re-pin of the power and ground leads for the pump and the pump primes just fine now. I sealed the leak at the external filter (wasn't tight enough) and the fuel system is 100% ready to go. 20 lbs on the pressure gauge at the regulator fully backed out. For the fuel pump assembly work, I moved the passenger seat all the way forward as well as leaning it all the way forward and it allows plenty of room to get in there. All you really need to do for the CJM stuff is get the assembly out of the tank. Most of the rest is done outside the car. Should get the remainder of the conversion parts today, so my goal is to turn the engine over tomorrow or Thursday at the latest! |
05-10-2017, 06:13 PM | #45 (permalink) |
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Done! -ish
I have just about wrapped up the install! If you guys wouldn't mind asking me some questions about what I did to make sure that I know exactly what to check for, or just tell me lol, I would really appreciate it! I have lots of pictures from lots of angles and I will be more than happy to take more to get any feedback that I can to ensure first time success haha. I followed most of the instructions nearly to the 't'.
Things I didn't do: Modify the driver's side relay box bracket. It has good clearance without drilling out the holes to shift it. Install any air-water stuff. Don't need it!! Install Stillen-supplied coolant reservoir. The OEM one fits fine and clears the belts. Things that I did: Installed new fuel injectors (ID 1050x's) Installed new spark plugs (OEM GTR) Installed CJM S1-SE fuel return system w/ pressure regulator Installed Aeromotive Stealth 340lph fuel pump Installed independent fuel pump wiring kit Installed CJM billet fuel pump tophat Installed Stillen SC kit Installed Topgunz Air-Air conversion Installed Prosport Evo AFR and boost meters Checks I have done so far: Fuel pump primes correctly Fuel lines are leak checked Meters energize and appear to work, but will need to check further when ready to turn the engine over. Serpentine belt clears everything and every rib covers every applicable rib of the pulleys Checks I intend to do: Check air lines for leaks when ready to turn the engine over Meter op-checks when motor is running Noise check for anything abnormal sounding Fuel line double check I'm sure there are things that I am missing, so please back me up! I appreciate all of the input that I have gotten so far, and my success is due in large part to all you fine folks! Pictures: https://goo.gl/photos/6wexurgWYzweWzYw7 |
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