PCV Delete, Catch Cans, and Unmetered Air

blueranger

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F.I. Stage 1 Twin Turbo #48 | E85 FlexFuel | Built 7AT | F.I. 34 Row Oil Cooler | F.I. Flex Plate | F.I. 19 row Trans Cooler | MT ET Street S/S | ECUTEK Tuned by Seb | RPM Roll Bar

Wonka2581

Any news on when Z1's Dyno will be back up and running?

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Wonka2581

Looks amazing!!! Question, do the filters get in the way of the hood?

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"I have nothing to offer but blood, toil, tears and sweat""Winston Churchill"

Jshvr

It's back up now!


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PongSanity

Nope. Hood closes perfect.


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Wonka2581

Cool, I couldn't tell from the pics

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PongSanity

AGREED. that's one DIY wire tuck I won't mind tackling.



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Jshvr

I hope I can mount my catch cans that way so I can keep my windshield washer reservoir!


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Kris9884

Interesting idea, I'll have to look at this.

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ChaseZ

Just to make sure it really is as simple as this.

The smaller lines on front of the valve cover are tee'd into the back of the Stillen intake as illustrated.

The 5/8 lines are looped together then tee'd at the drivers side where it continues to a vented catch can.

Would that not still leave unmetered air to be drawn in from the PVC elbow?? My elbow cracked this morning and that caused a complete vacuum leak as read on my boost gauge.

I don't want vacuum leaks obviously, not do I want unmetered air going in.

ChaseZ

So improving on that diagram I deleted the 3/8 front line altogether. Each fitting on the valve cover has a 3/8 edelbrock uni-filter in it now instead and capped the fitting in the back of the manifold. The catch can breather part is staying the same.

Girald

Ok, so heres a break down from what ive learned the hard way..

you have 4 holes that need to breathe..

Your PCVs -
they are on the front side of the valve covers.
They dump 90% of the crap coming out of the crank case.
the hose inner diameter is 3/8" (metric equiv)

for forced induction, its highly recommended that to go to a catch can system with proper filtering here. its also recommended to drill out the pcv or get a pcv valve flow through from cjm. might want to plumb the exit from the catch can back to the intake pipes for proper vacuum..

if you do run the cjm flow through, that's 8an, so might want to run 1/2" elbow and hose to the catch can to reduce the amount of fittings and widen up the hose for more flow

I read on the gtr forums, that vacuum is an issue and that vent to atmosphere is counter-productive - in other words, anything that helps outflow the crankcase pressure under high boost is most likely best the best option.

your CCVs -
those are the holes to the back of the valve covers
drivers side is elbowed and the passenger side is straight
they hardly dump anything nasty if at all.
the hose inner diameter is 5/8

I dont see why these cannot be vented to air since they are fairly clean in comparison. running a line elbowed at the fender liner gap and down, secured and filtered should solve it.

IMO, i wouldnt add filters right at the pcv or ccv outlets.. these out outlets are pumping out noxious gases and they WILL get sucked up by your a/c - heater cabin inlet. Believe me i know... turning on the heater was short lived, i thought i was going to die of asphyxia. Not noticeable at highway speeds, but definitely at slower speeds. AND - the pcv will puke out sht and dirty up the engine




Disclaimer: do this at your own risk, drive the speed limit and drink plenty of water.

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FrostZ34

Do you have pictures of this? Sounds like a great setup. I’m trying to do the same type of thing right now but I have the Motordyne upper manifold and the vacuum connections are not on the front like the stock manifold.

Girald

Update from my last post...

The PCV and CCV definitely breathe together.. Originally i posted that adding the PCV to the catch can would be the answer, with vented CCV...

not the case... so the exit pressure from the engine want to find a way out... if there is restriction ( catch can filter element etc) in the PCV, the engine will puke out of the CCV... i found this out after doing some workj to the car and found what looked like residue under the car resembling an oil leak... after searching for leaks, i tracked to the wheel wells where my CCV hoses were.

So naturally, I would suggest a 3 port catch can per bank (2) OR a tee-off at the PCV flow through point per side, where you can bond the 5/8 line with the 3/8 line and send all outbound to the catch cans... the 5/8 line is odd since the exit from the CCV exit ( look inside the plumbing) is much smaller, so i dont anticipate a pressure bottleneck.

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THE BULL

Here's a setup I came up with. This would be the second time I'd done this.

I have been running this in my car for almost two years now.

I've switched the vacuum source of my PCVs to the Evap system. I've T'd the nipple behind the Throttle flanges to receive the air from the PCV.

In my vehicle and in my engine stand I've bought some generic 90deg tubes $2 ea at autozone and put a 3/8s hose and sent it towards the back.

In that curve that it goes up there seems to be plenty of room for a catch can on both sides.

The ones in these pictures are clear because I want to monitor the amount of oil they see. In my experience the braided pool hose will darken and deteriorate faster in an engine with higher PCV contamination.

I will be testing differences in AFRs between my setup and the OEM setup since in my set up I see a bit more crank case vacuum than OEM I also see improperly distributed PCV gasses due to the new vacuum location. I'll compare between both however if there are differences then it would be really interesting to see how much could they affect AFRs and driveability.

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