Critique my parts list...

2011 Nismo#91

Just from a past plan, not sure if it helps.

~34 Row Oil Cooler With blockoff plate
AFR/Boost/Oil Psi Guages
Z1 Mounts Motor
Test pipes and Exhaust upgrade
Misc Fluids and Materials Oil and Coolant
EcuTek
Silicone Hoses

Tires Brakes
Steel Braided Brake Lines
Brake Pads XP10 Front XP8 Rear
Brake Fluid RBF600
Tires 275/35 305/30 RE11

Drivetrain
Zspeed Clutch, Flywheel, Elimination, Nismo pilot bushing
Wavetech Limited Slip Differential
Fluids, oils Clutch, Transmission, and Diff
Whiteline diff bushing
Replace all diff bearings and seals since it will be open anyways.

Misc
CJM Fuel Starvation Fix Kit
Adjustable Clutch Pedal
Other Fluids Water Wetter and PS Fluid

ChaseZ

If that is the must have list on top of the list above then I may as well sell the Z and get a GTR lol

Chuck33079

Honestly, that's always a concern on building a turbo z. The final out the door cost puts you in a used gtr or similar car. Not to mention boosting a z pretty much destroys the resale.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

ChaseZ

I'd almost be tempted to run the SC alone this summer and do the A/A over the following winter, but I know I wouldn't be happy 'settling' for the stock Stillen package. Most of these costs will be amortized over the winter since I can't drive it anyhow so shouldn't be so bad. Just trying to be judicious what I upgrade and when.

I didn't buy thit car to sell it so not really worried there, however what can be done can always be undone. I keep all my stock parts.

2011 Nismo#91

Your list is pretty much on par with whats the bare minimum needed, the 25 row oil cooler would probably be the minimum sufficent for street driving.

The OS Giken Diff is a lot of money and if your not racing I would say it's over kill. Not to mention it needs regular service. Finned Diff cover is not necessary for street driving either. I would recomend doing all the drivetrain mods I listed, are they required no, but your CSC will eventually fail if not your clutch with the extra torque. Also not required but with more power comes more speed much faster so brakes need more stopping power. Tires are very important as well because spinning your tires can be fun sometimes, but it isn't productive, and why did you spend all that money on power if you just spin it away.

ChaseZ

The OSG is only a couple hundred more than a Cusco or Quaife if you watch pricing carefully. Fluid changes are expected and I just consider that routine maintenance. Also, being as I have a Base the OSG should be pretty much a drop-in. Couple hundred bucks for top quality is well spent in my opinion.

The car will see more than just street driving, both road course and occasional 1320. I'm looking at limiting tire spin not inducing it. It gets you nowhere except back into your wallet for replacements. 325 MT ET Street S/S Drag Radials out back.

The CSC is an issue I haven't addressed yet as the car was brand new just this past spring - and am fully aware it will need to be. Haven't decided what clutch/flywheel I'll run but it wasn't directly relevant to the SC install so I left it off the list. Sidenote: I did add LSD and gears to the list because I'm curious of others' opinions on the 4.08 R&P coupled with FI.

Easy enough to upgrade the oil cooler if need be but this one I'll wait and see how it goes. We don't really get staggering items here even in the summer, but will put it on the track for final decision.

I'm dealing with a close but out of town wrecker on stock Nismo brakes they have on hand right now actually. Depends what they come back to me with. If it's a good deal then I'll go for it, but will need 19's to clear them as I don't think the 18's will - though I prefer to stick with 18's. Will see what happens there.

Guess the short of it is just trying to piece together a plan for this winter's teardown, certainly doesn't mean I'm going to stop there. It also doesn't mean I need to do everything all at once either. Need a realistic list for now and try to not do or include anything that will have to be swapped out or upgraded again later. FI isn't cheap and I don't want to do things twice. Already sold most of my bolt-ons to go this route and we all know how much of a hit you take on used parts.

ChaseZ

Oh, and I get bent over by the exchange rate every transaction too so that's not exactly in my favour right now.

At least the only real labor incurred will be the rear end. I turn my own wrenches but don't set gears.

2011 Nismo#91

18s will fit with sport (nismo) brakes, a number of people who track got with 18s for better selection of tires and savings with each set.

Road course and quater mile are going to make brakes and fuel starve fix more of a requirement then a nice to have.

With that I think you're good to go!

ChaseZ

Very good to know about the brake clearance. I hadn't looked it up but seemed reasonable that the giant-by-comparison calipers would need a larger wheel or offset.

Ironically, I've found there to be much LESS selection of 18" tires nowadays, at least in the larger sizes above 305. Pretty much anything is available in 19" though. I guess 19 is the new 18..

TBatt

Sorry but I do not have first hand experience with the Zeitronix.

The AEM Failsafe is super easy to install and the logging feature is really nice when a problem comes up such as a bad fuel pump. I know this because it happened with me. At first he AF was ok and then slowly started going leaner and because I had proof of the problem Stillen replaced the faulty pump with no questions asked. The interface is a USB cable that I have coiled up in the glove box. It comes with a Bosch WB sensor and bung. When I had Fast Intentions make my CBE I had them install a WB bung for me. Worked out great. One other nice feature of the AEM gauge is that it is easily user programmed for what you want it to do. The failsafe feature lets you control whatever (from a beeper to a boost controller) with a programmable relay that you get to set the parameters to trigger it.

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

ChaseZ

Thanks. I've read up now on the Failsafe and satisfied that's the way I'm going to go.

Now just to figure out if I'm going to make my own pod or go with Gale's. His is clearly OEM quality at a minimum, but need to figure out where my dollars are best being spent.

Jayhovah

Gale's is beautiful but I felt the same way and made my own. For something small like a pillar pod it's pretty easy.... of course not nearly as fancy as Gale's.

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2013 Gun Metallic Sport - Gamma V3 Twin Turbogized
DIY Gamma V3 TT Install * Jayhovah's Gamma V3 TT Install Pic'Z and Vid'Z * DIY: Washer Reservoir for the Boosted

ChaseZ

I haven't attached dollar amounts to each line item on my list thus far and totalled it. Maybe I'm better off not doing that lol

Do you have any pics of yours?

ChaseZ

Should I/Am I going to need a fuel pressure regulator?

Think I'll back down to 750 injectors. The 1000 was just in case I ever ran e85 but the closest pump is like 10 hours drive from here lol. Will plan on having a 103 race gas map however.

stansens

I can recommend the Gale single pod as mine is excellent work done. Jason lives in the Durham Region of Ontario. Nice guy.