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Originally Posted by Jayhovah What are your power goals again? If you are going to skip E85 and 1000cc injectors... you can probably also skip the regulator, fuel return, Walbro
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#1 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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I was starting to think along the same lines. That Walbro is only $135 from Seb so don't mind that cost. The CJ hat and return system is a like $400 not including the regulator which is another couple hundred, so might consider holding off on that and see how it goes. There's another $600 plus shipping I can try and get away with - and can always add later if need be. What are you running for a clutch? That's one area prices are all over the map. Seb did recommend his kit for $1500 plus the CSC, but realize there are some lower price alternatives. Looking at maybe a Southbend Stage 3 for $600 plus flywheel and CSC. There is another $500 at least back into the budget. There, just potentially saved $1200 usd. I certainly don't want to take a chance at running lean and causing problems though, so whatever my list changes I will certainly float past Seb for his expert opinion. He is the one that has to tune the car with these parts at the end of the day! I've been told a way to save on the A/A and yield similar results but want more information on it first. Theoretically there's another $1000 to be saved easily but am approaching this cautiously. I don't expect to pare it down to nothing, and don't want to push things into the trouble zone but not getting things I certainly should, but Im pretty sure there is middle ground to be found where things will still work out as planned. |
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#2 (permalink) | ||
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For clutch I went with the Z1 Clutch/Flywheel setup and ZSpeed HDCSC (That I scored for $200 new in the classifieds!) - it's way cheaper than any other combo. I am perfectly happy with it, and the full face disk handles my torque just fine. Drives a lot like OEM with a little more pedal effort. The CSC elimination kits seem to be increasing in popularity, but the HDCSC gets the job done perfectly fine, is cheaper, is closer to the design intended by the Nissan engineers and will be compatible with other mods.... For the sake of example - if you decided you wanted to do a bigger power build in the future and bought yourself a BP kit, I am pretty sure any of the CSC Elimination kits would be incompatible. I think people are jumping all over the elimination kits because the OEM CSC is such a PITA its like of like giving whatever QA jerk who approved that part a big middle finger. And it feels good to give that guy the finger. (Not to be confused with fingering that guy, which also may feel good depending on your persuasion). I would absolutely NOT skip the Air-to-Air kit... Even if you get over the heat soak issues with the stillen design, keeping your ECU in the dark about what your intake temps are seems like a recipe for disaster to me.
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Last edited by Jayhovah; 12-02-2016 at 02:45 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Clutch is further down the list anyhow. I'll get to it, but prioritize the other things first. Same with the locker. I don't mean skip the air to air, just piecing it together a different way. Still moving the MAF up the charge pipe towards the TB'S, still putting filter right on the blower, adding big intercooler etc. However these guys are leaving the aftercooler in place which I'm not sure I agree with. When I have and understand all the info that's been mentioned to me about building it that way I'll pass it along and see if it passes muster. I have ZERO intention of running the Stillen kit as is. Install kit for the Walbro is like $30-40. No fingering going on either way lol ![]() |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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![]() Last edited by ChaseZ; 12-02-2016 at 11:25 AM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Skip the Specialty Z clutch. Buy it from Z1 or Zspeed. Specialty Z royally ****** me over with a defective clutch that ended up costing me an extra $1k between labor to replace it and the rental car while it was down. Plus they're the kind of guys that tell you they'll pay some of the labor overage, and then weasel out of it once it comes time to pay up.
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#7 (permalink) | ||
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2013 Gun Metallic Sport - Gamma V3 Twin Turbogized DIY Gamma V3 TT Install * Jayhovah's Gamma V3 TT Install Pic'Z and Vid'Z * DIY: Washer Reservoir for the Boosted Quote:
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#8 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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On day one of my reign..err administration, the heads of Mishimoto and Evo-R will be on spikes outside my evil lair.
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#10 (permalink) | |
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It was an emotional rollercoaster.
Here is the thread with all the pics and vids.. Jayhovah's Gamma V3 TT Install Pic/Video Dump
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2013 Gun Metallic Sport - Gamma V3 Twin Turbogized DIY Gamma V3 TT Install * Jayhovah's Gamma V3 TT Install Pic'Z and Vid'Z * DIY: Washer Reservoir for the Boosted Quote:
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#11 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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I don't doubt it.
Makes me glad I have a few months to collect parts and do my build. That said, it isn't my style. I'll probably be in there powering through it like a dirty shirt (with a dirty shirt?) day and night until it's done. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Updated the OP parts list. Made the call to run a substantially upgraded A/W setup. Should still see some good gains and is more economical to start out with.
Even beyond that still lots to do in the car with the wrap and decalling for it (company sponsored for events) and all these things add up quick so saving a grand or so over the A/A conversion helps a lot right now. Not to mention still need set of GramLites and tires too, along with a brake upgrade (trying to score a set off a wrecked Nismo). Here is the updated SC list so far: Amended list: Stillen SC, impeller upgrade and 9psi pulley FrozenBoost 101 Intercooler Bosch 850cc injectors K&N filter, right on the blower Greddy FV BOV Relocate MAF to charge pipe Speed density tuning Walbro 485 pump CJM hat and 10mm return kit GTR Plugs AMS Alpha GTR 4 bar MAP sensor OS Giken 1.5 Whiteline Diff bushing SouthBend Stage 3 Street clutch and flywheel (quiet one) CSC Elminator AEM Failsafe Boost/AFR Gauge Upgrade oil cooler to 34 row (will try it out first) Ecutek reflash Possibly custom charge pipe with long enough Y to put MAF right at each TB. Will see how it goes. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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You should add to your list an intake temp sensor located in the plenum after the cooler.
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#14 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Thanks, I knew I was missing something but couldn't put my finger on what it was. AIT had crossed my mind before but ended up forgetting all about it again. Definitely want to know those temps!
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#15 (permalink) |
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I have a brand new dual readout gauge. I think I have a 2 water temp sensor and an air sensor that I bought for it too.Was going to put one air in the manifold, one of the water sensors right before the intercooler and one right after it too see how well the heat exchanger was doing at cooling the water. This would be awesome and very easy to do with the stillen h.e. then swap to the treadstone and see what's going on. I think I bought some in line hose temp sensor bungs/fittings that would make installing them take about 5 minutes. Will sell cheap.
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