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I was a little hesitant to post pics of my pillar pod because I am not 100% happy with it and plan to work it a little more in the future... but here ya go! =) http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...2&d=1480697992 http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...3&d=1480697992 |
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The pictures aren't the best but from what I can see so far that pod is looking great! Definitely want to see it when it's done. I started thinking yesterday I might just recess the gauge into the center cubby and even leave the lid on for a bit of a stealth look. Easy enough to pop it open when I want to see it. And still leave room for my sunglasses, which is pretty much the only thing I ever put in there anyways. Plus the price on install is $0.00 :p |
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Yeah sorry the pics are so junky... I just snapped them this morning when I pulled the car out, but I was already late for work. =) Hopefully I will have a chance to redo it some time... since it's currently functional redoing it has moved to the back of the list =) I'll be happy if it gets done some time in the summer. |
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Can't wait til I've collected enough parts to start this install :) |
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FYI - I am only running 600cc injectors and a Walbro 255 in my otherwise-stock fuel system and have not had issues though I do feel it is a little small. If I had to do it over again I would do what I suggested above. This all depends on goals of course. I am in the mid 500's and do not have plans of increasing. Quote:
I would recommend you start installing anything you can right away to save time later... for instance, go ahead and install/wire your gauges and route the sensor wiring to the engine compartment.. That will save you at least half a day when you are like THIS CLOSE to driving it for the first time =) Also anything you can complete in stages and will help, especially if you have parts ahead of time. For instance, install the whole fuel system and ask Seb to provide you a stock Map scaled for the bigger injectors... That way you can check-out that portion of the build and troubleshoot it without having changed a bunch of other things (if necessary)... and it will save you a day or more when you get the parts for the rest of the install. Looking forward to your build!! |
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I was starting to think along the same lines. That Walbro is only $135 from Seb so don't mind that cost. The CJ hat and return system is a like $400 not including the regulator which is another couple hundred, so might consider holding off on that and see how it goes. There's another $600 plus shipping I can try and get away with - and can always add later if need be. What are you running for a clutch? That's one area prices are all over the map. Seb did recommend his kit for $1500 plus the CSC, but realize there are some lower price alternatives. Looking at maybe a Southbend Stage 3 for $600 plus flywheel and CSC. There is another $500 at least back into the budget. There, just potentially saved $1200 usd. I certainly don't want to take a chance at running lean and causing problems though, so whatever my list changes I will certainly float past Seb for his expert opinion. He is the one that has to tune the car with these parts at the end of the day! I've been told a way to save on the A/A and yield similar results but want more information on it first. Theoretically there's another $1000 to be saved easily but am approaching this cautiously. I don't expect to pare it down to nothing, and don't want to push things into the trouble zone but not getting things I certainly should, but Im pretty sure there is middle ground to be found where things will still work out as planned. |
Skip the Specialty Z clutch. Buy it from Z1 or Zspeed. Specialty Z royally ****** me over with a defective clutch that ended up costing me an extra $1k between labor to replace it and the rental car while it was down. Plus they're the kind of guys that tell you they'll pay some of the labor overage, and then weasel out of it once it comes time to pay up.
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For clutch I went with the Z1 Clutch/Flywheel setup and ZSpeed HDCSC (That I scored for $200 new in the classifieds!) - it's way cheaper than any other combo. I am perfectly happy with it, and the full face disk handles my torque just fine. Drives a lot like OEM with a little more pedal effort. The CSC elimination kits seem to be increasing in popularity, but the HDCSC gets the job done perfectly fine, is cheaper, is closer to the design intended by the Nissan engineers and will be compatible with other mods.... For the sake of example - if you decided you wanted to do a bigger power build in the future and bought yourself a BP kit, I am pretty sure any of the CSC Elimination kits would be incompatible. I think people are jumping all over the elimination kits because the OEM CSC is such a PITA its like of like giving whatever QA jerk who approved that part a big middle finger. And it feels good to give that guy the finger. (Not to be confused with fingering that guy, which also may feel good depending on your persuasion). I would absolutely NOT skip the Air-to-Air kit... Even if you get over the heat soak issues with the stillen design, keeping your ECU in the dark about what your intake temps are seems like a recipe for disaster to me. |
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Clutch is further down the list anyhow. I'll get to it, but prioritize the other things first. Same with the locker. I don't mean skip the air to air, just piecing it together a different way. Still moving the MAF up the charge pipe towards the TB'S, still putting filter right on the blower, adding big intercooler etc. However these guys are leaving the aftercooler in place which I'm not sure I agree with. When I have and understand all the info that's been mentioned to me about building it that way I'll pass it along and see if it passes muster. I have ZERO intention of running the Stillen kit as is. Install kit for the Walbro is like $30-40. No fingering going on either way lol :icon17: |
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Good to know on the Walbro install kit! I don't have plans to upgrade, but you never know =) |
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Here is the thread with all the pics and vids.. http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ideo-dump.html |
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