Does FI do a payment plan?

jabo5779

You are pretty much spot on. But that is for base z with a BP kit bought second hand, brakes, diff, gauges, labor, diff mounts, diff cooler, short shifter, wheels, tires, clutch, flywheel, RJM master cylinder/pedal, other crap I can't remember at this point, etc.

If I did my build with FI......... I think it would be closer to 30k starting with a base z.

NISMO IX

$30,000 base + $30,000 turbo kit and all necessary requirement =$60,000. Twice the money for twice the car, you get what you pay for.

I personally would rather pay upfront instead of having to owe for something IF it breaks.

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2017 Ford Focus RS Nitrous Blue "KB43VER"
2014 370z Mag Blk 6M "KOKURYU" (Black Dragon)

blueranger

I would save an equal amount each month for 10 months in a separate account you will not touch.

If by the 7th month you are still good and do not need this money for anything else (more important) make the deposit and keep saving for the last three months it takes to get the kit.

You can also build your car with supporting mods needed now before you buy the kit to keep the cost down.

In my opinion a TT kit is impressive and worth it but it is expensive.

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F.I. Stage 1 Twin Turbo #48 | E85 FlexFuel | Built 7AT | F.I. 34 Row Oil Cooler | F.I. Flex Plate | F.I. 19 row Trans Cooler | MT ET Street S/S | ECUTEK Tuned by Seb | RPM Roll Bar

Chuck33079

If cost is a major concern, the BP single kit is less expensive and much easier to install. You could even diy if you're reasonably handy and save a few grand on labor.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

wideglideleon

Senna-F1

You're best bet is to sell what you have and buy a 370z that's already been modified. They've mostly had $15,000 to $25,000 or more invested, and basically get a very, very small fraction of that money back when it's sold.

louiey370z

I don't believe they fit AT cars

louiey370z

Not a bad suggestion. Question though since it just got into mind. I haven't seen much single turbo kits for 370Z's until now. Are there any that fit AT?

Chuck33079

You're correct, never mind. If you're auto, you need some cash in the budget to build it up to handle a turbo. There's a reason the AT guys usually go with a supercharger. The at has issues with adding a lot of torque.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

blueranger

This is why I went with F.I. TT & Transmission build for my Auto.

Currently running 625-650whp on E85 and still holding strong.

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F.I. Stage 1 Twin Turbo #48 | E85 FlexFuel | Built 7AT | F.I. 34 Row Oil Cooler | F.I. Flex Plate | F.I. 19 row Trans Cooler | MT ET Street S/S | ECUTEK Tuned by Seb | RPM Roll Bar

solidus

Yup trans starts acting the @ss as soon as it starts getting close to the 400rwtq range. Did the same thing with the Nissan Titans. The fact that he's AT add's more $$$$ due to the built trans/trans mod and torque converter ( Not necessary but a good idea.) I dunno how much FI charges but Level 10 would about a bit over 2k for the bulletproof kit with torque converter and valve body but then you have Labor to worry about. Their Complete built trans is 4500. and you still have the R and R labor plus shipping on the plus side it's rated for 700whp but can be uprated to 1000whp.

solidus

OP I'll tell you a story to put this in perspective. Maybe 4 people on this forum even know this but I think it can help you understand where we're coming from.

This past February I bought a 2015 Nismo, I immediately did Ark Springs, Takeda Long tubes , exhaust and HFC's. I had recently gotten rid of a full bolt G37 coupe and I still had my UPREV tuner cable with the license. Right off the bat I felt like my G37 ( With full bolt , geared and carbon driveshaft ) was much quicker than my new Nismo so I felt my only option was to go boosted (I go progressively harder at everything I do. ) and looked at my options. I knew what I had cash wise and I knew what was necessary for each of the options availible. I looked at F.I. , AAM , Vortex , Boosted Performance , Stillen and the company which cannot be named. Taking it all into consideration with the peripheral modifications I'd have to make and labor I decided on the BP kit. If money was'nt a concern I would've shipped my car to F.I. but I could'nt because even though I had the money , it's highly likely that I would've been subjected to at least 2 years of cold shoulder.
So.........I got my clutch , had it installed. As soon as it was broken in I sent the deposit for the kit. While waiting for the kit I ordered my guages, boost controller , Fuel return system and radiator. When the full kit arrived I bought new RE-11 tires. As soon as the tires were installed I took the car to my friends shop to do the install. Had a few issues that ate up time but finally got the install done. First time on the dyno I did'nt have the trans harness up high enough and it burnt the harness. I almost passed out because I thought I had to replace the ECM,BCM and PCM. Went to Nissan to get a price and they quoted something like 1500.00. I spent 7 dollars on some wire did a little soldering , raised the harness and wrapped it in leftover lava wrap...situation resolved. Take it back to the dyno to finish the tune.
Kept getting random boost spikes of 16psi when the boost controller was set to 9.5psi. Thought it may have been the solenoid so we turned it off. Finished up the tune at 7.5psi just to get it over but it was still spiking from time to time at WOT. Car made 443rwhp/374rwtq on a heartbreaker Mustang dyno. I did'nt think that was all that bad at 7.5psi. Left the tuner with the expectation of troubleshooting my boost controller and having it retuned at 12psi later.
The very next day I decide to take the car for a spin. On my way home I got on an onramp and saw nothing but road ( Hey y'all watch this moment. ) I decided to just have at that stretch of road. Right at the top of third gear it felt great. Hit fourth gear and it was incredible. To my amazement it suddenly felt like I got a nitrous hit and the car surged and chirped. Pulled like I never imagined. I was thinking to myself "Holy $#it!!!" . Then.......silence. In my rear view I see a poof of smoke then my oil pressure guage went to zero and my dash lit up like a Christmas tree. The whole time all I heard was wind noise. I was numb because I knew what it meant. I coasted to the side of the road and popped the hood. There was no oil leaking anywhere just smoke coming from my breathers. My boost controller showed a peak of 23.7psi, no need to investigate further because I'd call that catastrophic any day of the week. Called AAA and the GF to let her know I would'nt be meeting her like I planned. ( She showed up to do the "Told ya so" dance on the side of the road. )
Once home I just put it in the garage and walked away. Went online to price built blocks and had to ask myself exactly where I wanted to be before I spent the money. (The car felt great at 7.5psi) After going back and forth I decided to just find the lowest mileage motor I could , disconnect the EBC and run 10.5 springs at wastegate pressure. This completely removes the idiot factor. God smiled on me and I found a complete 2015 Nismo motor with 7500 miles, cost me 3k for the motor. Next week I'll be swapping over my intake manifold , injectors and fuel return. Then slap new GTR plugs into the new motor then have it installed. The install is going to cost me right around 1400.00 . Then another 500.00 for a retune at 10.5psi. That's a little less than half of what I originally spent.
I don't blame anyone for this because what I believe actually happened is that I plumbed the EBC backwards. It's been since the beginning of October that I popped the motor and I have'nt so much as pulled the oil pan and I don't plan to until I'm taking the car to have the install done. If my block is salvageable I'll start to build it over a year then swap it in and sell the one in the car now. The emotional me is kicking itself in the a$$ over this. The logical me is learning from it. The original cost of my kit was 7300.00 (minus a couple hundred because I already had Uprev ) and right now I'm a tad over 20k with my adventures. Putting it back together on wastegate with 10.5 springs is just making it as "idiotproof" as I care to go until I get a built motor. This time next year I intend to have a built block and looking to be making around 700rwhp.
Sorry for making it a book but that's my story. If I had financed this it would be too easy to walk away. Fear elicits two distinct reactions:

Fack Everything And Run
Fack Everything And React

Forced induction is deep water when it comes to car modding and it demands that you are ready from the start to deal with forced induction things that may or may not happen. In my case it would've been too late to try to save up a Built Block fund because I would've had to wait for weeks to get that money set aside.

Really hope this helps you understand at least a little bit.

jabo5779

Thanks for sharing. There are valuable lessons in this story from a very humble Z owner.



Best of luck to you with your ongoing project.

Spooler

^^^^ It is painful when things go wrong. Been there done that. If it hasn't happened to you, feel lucky.

solidus

for me it was like that Odell Beckham commercial. I was just sittin there numb thinking "So this is what those guys feel like!!"