Yup because then you'll be paying for them to remove the oil cooler and intercooler all over again. It might pinch a bit but just get it done the first time to keep from paying for it twice. As far as the boost controller, I'm that guy. If it can be blown up, I'm gonna blow it up. A good bit of advice is to have them install one for you and just "You" don't touch it. I know this from experience 23psi on a stock block is the most amazing thing you'll ever feel for about 4 seconds.

You can get a manual boost controller and just not mess with it. It's under the hood, not in the cabin where you would mess with it.

Oh it cannot be any worse than the V-band for the SC intake....:ugh2:

I've had the TT setup for a week now, incredible how it transformed the car. I purchased the AAM kit and they installed it since I'm so close. I've asked them a few dumb questions over the last week and they have been very patient answering them. One thing that has occurred twice now is low oil pressure light (on the tach) has briefly lit up, once as I was letting the car cool down after a drive and today as I was braking and turning into my driveway. When the light comes on (second or so at the most) the idle dips briefly with the light almost to the point I think its going to stall. I asked them about the light and they said it happens on occasion because of the spacer plate they use between the block and oil pan to increase oil but mainly to place plumbing, they say the oil sensor is located fairly high in the block and altering the overall height between the bottom of pan and block causes this glitch once in a while. Has anyone experienced this or agree? AAM has been great to work with so I almost hate to ask the question (and doubt what they told me)

Yes, happened to me this week on my new AAM TT build! Took it to the tech, who measured pressure via computer, and it was within the normal ranges.

--ZOM

Is there a oil pickup extender to go along with the oil pan spacer? Might explain why it only does it once in a while

Yes there's a pickup spacer that should be included in the kit if you're using an oil pan spacer.

A caveat to this is that the spacer included with my BP kit had a spacer for the pickup also. I've seen an AAM spacer kit at a local shop and it had the same spacer. It was cut to the same thickness as the pan spacer. I was considering buying it because it had ports cut for sensors.

I don't really understand this. Is this a different sensor than the pressure sensor that is located near the bottom of the front face of the motor?

If it is the same sensor, how could altering the height cause this glitch? My understanding is that the sensor is just a dumb pressure sensor that is after the oil pickup (after all, the oil pan is not pressurized....) so if it is reporting low oil pressure for a second.... it would seem to me that you have low oil pressure for that second.

I have a high capacity oil pan and there is a spacer on my oil pickup. I've never had my oil pressure light come on.

If anyone can shed more light on this, please do so!

:iagree:

Doesn't that light come on at ~3ish psi of pressure? That doesn't give me warm fuzzy feelings about the build. Might want to have a local trusted shop give a second opinion.

There was probably some miscommunication, there is no reason the oil pan spacer would cause the oil pressure light to come on. (Unless there was a leak sealing the pickup tube spacer to the pump, rather unlikely but possible)

I suspect that the cause and effect might be reversed from your explanation... a dip in idle to the point that the engine almost stalls can cause the oil pressure light to activate. Since the oil pump is crankshaft driven, when the engine speed is too low it will not generate oil pressure.

Also, the post about a tech plugging in and measuring pressure.. they were not being honest with you. The 370z does not have an oil pressure sensor to check the pressure. It merely has an oil pressure switch, which only activates to turn on the oil pressure light when pressure is very low.

There's another thread with a similar issue: http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...sure-idle.html

Regarding the oil pressure measurement, I am trying to figure out what exactly was being communicated to me about the pressure reading. I don't know if there is an aftermarket pressure sensor installed, or if the software reads or estimates pressure some other way. I should know more on Saturday. They intend to connect a diagnostic oil pressure gauge directly to try and find out exactly what's happening, and I'll post an update.

--ZOM

Adding an oil pressure gauge is the only way to check it. The software would have no way to read or estimate pressure using the factory installed oil pressure switch.

"I suspect that the cause and effect might be reversed from your explanation... a dip in idle to the point that the engine almost stalls can cause the oil pressure light to activate. Since the oil pump is crankshaft driven, when the engine speed is too low it will not generate oil pressure."

That actually sounds like what may be occurring, makes sense in my situation ( just a flash of oil light with momentary dip in idle).

I would still like to know why this is happening. The light doesn't flash in the stock setup.

If its from the idle dip, that would be a tuning issue to correct.

If you genuinely have low oil pressure, and it wasnt just from the engine almost stalling, then there are several possibilities.

I took some video showing the oil light flicker at idle, just before accelerating away from idle



So I followed up today at the shop. I was paranoid all week about the possibility of a bad oil pump, so they put a diagnostic gauge on it today (made sure the engine/oil was warmed up). This is the result:



Shows 14 psi at idle, right at factory spec. Worst case dips to 10 psi when lugging down to 500-600 RPM.

Not sure why the light goes on. I am thinking it could be several things:

• The pressure switch is going off when it gets < ~8-9 psi,
• Could be a problem with the switch,
• There's some kind of pressure drop in the tee where it’s attached; caused by a peculiarity in the configuration (turbos are fed from this point)
• Something else going on with AAM kit.

As for the latter, perhaps AAM is looking into it, since there are two of us now experiencing the same issue on a recent install. However, I'm much less concerned now that I saw the pressure reading directly from the gauge.


--ZOM

Just wanted to step in and say that what you are showing is not reflecting the situation I was posting to "alanforn" about. I would want to get to the bottom of what you are showing.

This is what alanforn said: "One thing that has occurred twice now is low oil pressure light (on the tach) has briefly lit up, once as I was letting the car cool down after a drive and today as I was braking and turning into my driveway. When the light comes on (second or so at the most) the idle dips briefly with the light almost to the point I think its going to stall." ( http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ml#post3577934 )

Mine appears to be doing exactly the same thing -- I braked, turned, and just as (or just before) I let out the clutch there was a slight dip in RPM, and light flickered. Only thing I noted is my light isn't on tach, it's on left fuel/temp/info display.

I never see the oil pressure light any time the RPM is over 1000.

Since my pressure was normal when analog gauge connected and RPM's dipped below 600, wouldn't you think it was something with the fitting or pressure switch, and not a serious problem?

Thanks,

--ZOM

I'll contact AAM this week and see if I can get a clear explanation and report back.
Alan

I dont think your video matches his description at all to be honest. Your RPM never dipped much if at all, and certainly did not appear to almost stall.

As for if your problem is a serious one... hard to say without knowing the cause. If there is a leak in the oil galley gaskets or a bad oil pump or something, it could certainly be a very serious concern. But if its just the switch, it wouldnt be a big concern other than to replace the switch. I dont see how the fittings would cause it unless they were very very restrictive and not allowing the switch to see the pressure accurately. You may want to confirm that the turbos are being oil restricted to their specification since over oiling the turbos could over tax the oil system and reduce pressure at all times, causing the light to go on at lower pump speeds, possibly.

THANKS! By the way, tell them I've found four (4) forumites that have mentioned this issue, all who have the AAM Oil Pan Spacer:

1. ZOperaMan (me)
2. alanforn (you)
3. Ill ( http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ml#post3256090 )
4. Aviator44 ( http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ml#post3256412 )

I know "correlation is not causation" but they should definitely investigate.

--ZOM

I certainly will, should have a reply tomorrow.

AAM TT Oil Pressure Light
 

Just to follow up on the intermittent oil pressure light appearing after AAM TT install:

I did contact AAM via PM, but never got a response.

After a couple of tuning adjustments, and about 1000 miles of break-in, I no longer see the oil pressure idiot light flicker. The idle speed may have been adjusted slightly, but it still idles as low as 800 RPM. The only factor I can think of is oil weight may have changed after break-in oil change.

I still want to get a real oil pressure gauge with sender; just need to figure out best configuration that will keep both factory switch and new pressure sensor, along with the AAM tee fitting.

--ZOM

I had a oil pressure sensor installed on my mishimoto oil cooler adapter


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One possibility:

Ive always been paranoid about the mating surface condition between the block and the pickup tube.

If you install an "aftermarket" spacer between the pick up tube and the block then you would introduce another possible leak point.

This spacer has to be "leak proof" on both the block side and the tube side. So, proper surface conditions on all mating surfaces, proper sealer and bolt torque are required to make the joint seal perfectly.

The oil pump is located above the pick up tube flange, and the oil pump would much rather pump air than oil. If the pick up spacer/flange joint is not submerged in oil and not 100% leak proof, the pump might suck air.

Is the flange exposed to air when you turn the car and the oil slosh goes to one side?

Dont know for sure, but its a concern I would have.

A way to eliminate this issue is to make the switch to a dry sump system.

Be very careful with that. One member here had that part fail and it dumped all the oil. Damn near cost him a new motor, and all Mishimoto did as far as their "lifetime warranty" was send him a new o-ring. Not even a whole new adapter, just the o-ring.

Every install I've seen for the extended pickup tube has you rtv the mating surfaces, so you shouldn't have an issue with it sucking air through the cracks.

Any other recommendations for a 3-way connection?

--ZOM

I just did a bunch of research on oil filter adapters and relocation before I decided I didn't really need to relocate my oil filter..

Anything you buy that adapts to the oil filter location on the motor just needs to fit a 20mm oil filter stud. You can find something from summit racing, Mocal (batinc.net), or Earl's (sold at summit and holley). Most of the inexpensive parts you will find are cast - I would recommend AGAINST getting any cast parts. I ordered a bunch of them and every single one had some kind of imperfection in the mating surface. Spend the extra money for a billet part (and with some brands it isn't even that much more expensive).