You can definitely get boosted for $10k or even less for that matter. Being boosted is one thing. How will you use the power is another. Making 1000hp means nothing if it took 6 straps on the dyno and 3 big guys in the trunk for the car to get enough traction on the rollers to read correctly.

Then there is the question of how are you going to use said power once you can lay it Shen. Are you going in strait lines while rolling? Dead stop? Hitting Twisties? Big sweepers or tight turns?

Adding power to the power plant is one thing. How are you going to use said power and in what fashion is another. This is where all the other $$$ add VB up. Anyone but following my build thread can easily see what it takes. I probably spent $3k on top of my list on things or services but don't feel like adding it.

Then people also forget to add in the time that they spent working on the project. I have spent so much time wrenching be it's ridiculous. My siblings call my car the flying car. Three power is fun but there is always that Little bit of paranoia that something can and will go wrong so that's why I keep messing with the car. There is also that voice that tells you "hey, you already spent $xxxxx and only this great. Another $xxxx more and it will but that much better."

YzGyz

FI Full Turbo Kit (optional)Larger Housing-External Waste gates
34 Row Oil Cooler With blockoff plate
AFR/Boost/Oil Psi Guages & Pods
Motor and Diff mounts
Exhaust 3" 3" tubing all the way
(Optional) CSF Radiator and Upgrade fan
Misc Fluids and Materials Oil and Coolant
Software and Tuning EcuTek or Uprev
(Optional) Turbo and Exhaust Wrap Intercooler thermal coating

Tires Brakes
Steel Braided Brake Lines
Brake Pads XP10 Front XP8 Rear
Brake Fluid RBF600
Rotors Z1 Slotted
Tires 275/35 305/30 RE11

Zspeed Clutch, Flywheel, Elimination Nismo pilot bushing
Quafe Limited Slip Differential
Fluids, oils Clutch, Transmission, and Diff

Suspension
KW V3
Hotchkiss Sway Bars Front Only

Misc
CJM Fuel Starvation Fix Kit
Other Fluids Water Wetter and PS Fluid

This is a short list I put together of what I felt was needed to make useful and safe power. Useful and safe because spinning your wheel(open diff) or wheels(crappy rubber) or your clutch just wastes money. And because you can get to much higher speeds much faster being able to stop faster is important as well. Tires and brakes will add nearly 2k if not more to your costs.

While you can do FI for 10K at that point it's more for show then go.

L O L all you want but nowadays 600hp is the new 250hp, not to mention that's about where our motors go. Its just not enough to play with the grown ups around here. So again, $10k or less sounds good for those numbers but, anything over that you are far better off swapping a more proven platform.

Yes, but besides bragging rights ("my car puts down eleventy billion hp") you aren't going any much faster. Because physics. So while 600hp might be the new 250hp, all you're really doing is spending more money to go beyond that.

Thank you all for the GREAT info. My plan is to have AAM do the install and tuning, just by dumb luck I'm 15 minutes away. I honestly would be ecstatic to have 500 HP, I know turbo's are addictive..but I just want to get the power then concentrate on handling, wheels, tires, etc. in stages. I'd like to do some track days and rest of the time driving curvy roads. I've always liked lower end pull versus redline power, my searching suggested that TT favored a broader spread of power compared to a single turbo hitting harder and up high?

I also really want to stay within the safe perimeters of the stock motor, from what I've read with the correct "supporting mods" (gotta love that phrase) I shouldn't have any grenade issues. Please school me on anything I've misread, misinterpreted or am just plain wrong..I'm a performance bike guy with a fragged back and seeking to emulate as much as possible the power hit and enjoyment good HP exudes!

Alan

FWIW, based on most of the builds on here, the stock motor is good to about 450 ft/lbs torque. Once you go past that, you run a much higher risk of blowing something in the motor.

If u want more bang for buck feed the cat corn. You get big ## at the low cost of a few grand. Lol. Bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump. Maybe a fuel return depending on how much ## but it's a big step VB power wise.

And for what its worth, the bike rush is 2x more exhilarating than the car rush. At least it is in my experience.

YzGyz

Very true but that's a whole different discussion lol

Actually the stock block can handle another 100 ft/lbs and be safe on e85 or 100 octane. Before I switched to e85 my numbers on 100 octane were 556whp and 552tq. :p

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I met with AAM today. They showed me the shop, the different workstations (mandrel bending, tig welding and other fabbing and dyno.) They also showed me some customer cars ranging form 370'z to GTR's. MIke and Tyler then set down with me and went over a detailed list, I'll post the write up in a bit. Overall I was very impressed with the shop and quality of components they build in house. Bottom line we're talking right around $15,000 w/ labor for 500HP with a 1 to 2 week turnaround. Since they more or less center all their focus on the 370, GTR and Infinity they have the process down to a science. Its looking very promising to me.

One question I forgot to ask, whats the deal with emissions? They are installing their 3" true duals and I'm not sure if they have catalysts or not. Of course I'll ask them but in the meantime thought I would ask for members experience dealing with the government moneymaker. I know a friend of mine has a Miata with an LS1 and he does some tuning wizardry to make it pass without removing any hard parts.

I have there twin turbo kit with the 3 inch true duals. I couldn't see it passing emissions. Their down pipes get rid of the cats all together.


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with the upgrades that you initially listed,,,I'm with Spooler 20-25
Gotta have a strong foundation,,,I only have exhaust,cai,helical diff locker w/new bearings & bushings,camber arms & tune....4500+ and i installed all the stuff -Dyno tune.
Do it right the 1st time....just be ready to turn those $$$$$ loose!

My cost were near about $17K for everything three years ago and I had a few discounts as well. If you are looking to flex fuel cost is going to be about $22K.

What are you guys who have to go through emissions doing to pass? I've posed this to AAM but haven't heard back yet. In my mind if I got the 3" true duals with test pipe sections I would think I could drop cats in (and a retune) at emissions time.