Engine hoist lift points

phunk

run a couple straps around the engine up to the strut bar close to the strut tower. or just wrap around the engine mount brackets and up to the bar.

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Girald

ill be pulling out the motor to deal with some turbo issues as well.
installers did a poor job of installing the aam tt kit, now im pulling it to address come concerns before my drivers side wastegate becomes a crumpled beer can.

problems im running into:
1: the a/c junction next to the brake reservoir doesnt want to come off..ideas?
2: the stick shift knob - how am i getting that damned thing off?
3: the bolts used for hoist - are they oem? if not what is the thread pitch?

since the ic pipes interfere with just pulling tge motor out, i was thinking of removing the front subframe cage ans sway bar then just lifting it off the mounts and sliding it forward... good or bad idea?

im guessing, if this doesnt work, ill have to drop the front subframe all together, but im trying to avoid that one.

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AAM tt'ed // Soon: Moving back to the East Coast

Rusty

Shifter knob. Is it stock or aftermarket? Try a strap wrench. If that don't work. Wrap it with lots of duct tape, and use a pipe wrench.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
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sirnixalot

i just cut a flat bar and welded some D rings to it, bolted it to the lower intake manifold

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2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading
2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

Girald

Props to you... i just used that idea to pull mine out. i snaked a 6.5' strap for just in case, and slung the rear with another balancer, ( not noose tied it)

good times but pita getting it back in.. lol

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AAM tt'ed // Soon: Moving back to the East Coast

Girald

thanks..

i found out that i could just unscrew the transmission linkage ... just 1 bolt.. ez japanese then go in and unscrew the shifter alignment plate etc to remove it all togther ... shifter knob untouched...

easier than i thought

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AAM tt'ed // Soon: Moving back to the East Coast

ChrisDrift

Sorry to bump an old thread but this is the first thing that comes up on google when you search for 370z engine lifting points so I figured I'd add my 2 cents I used the photos from earlier in this thread as inspiration, but went for something slightly more heavy duty and picked up from 4 of the intake manifold bolts rather than 2. Note that I was only lifting the engine, not the transmission (already removed that separately).

Welded some lifting eyes to some box section:





Put them on the intake manifold bolts like so:



Attached engine hoist hooks:



and she came out



I did struggle at first with one of the engine mounts not lifting up, even though the nut was off it. Turns out it had just glued itself to the subframe with corrosion



So yeah had to attack that with a pry bar for a minute, but after that it was all good.

I saw someone earlier said they used 10.9 grade bolts but I only used 8.8 because when I googled it I discovered even an 8.8 M8 bolt can lift well over a tonne. The one thing I was worried about was the fact that these are aluminium threads we're lifting from... but I figured if it went fine for someone else here only using 2 of the threads then it should be fine for me using 4

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Me drifting/crashing my 350Z and 370Z: https://youtube.com/ChrisDriftVideo

Tomarango

I know,
Too late to the party but if you read this can help out a fellow Z please?
How did you know your subframe was bent? I suspect theres something going on woth mine with the way it drives sketchy steering). I've done control arm bushes, upper arms, steering rack, swaybar and links, shocks and springs. Its the only Z ive driven but it just doesnt feel riggt. Steering has a mind of its own.

Spooler

Sounds like you have a Tramline issue. The ruts in the road steering the car. Not much you can do about that. Larger front tires seem to help. You ride over the ruts, not in the middle.