stroker turbo setup
 

Some of the sticky data looks dated, please correct me if I am wrong.

I am wanting to build a turbo motor capable of 800+ whp including the appropriate satellite upgrades ( fuel, suspension, drivetrain, etc... ) I am working with a 2009 Nismo as the base. It has roughly 100k miles on it and will be rebuilding the motor before installing a turbo setup. I just finished up doing a 800+ rwhp build for my 300C ( which is extensive! ), and am wanting to do a 370z next. The 300 was pretty niche build, I expect similar issues with this one.

I have no qualms with doing research, but want to make sure what I'm reading is relatively recent. If anyone feels giving enough to point me in the right direction that would be wonderful. Even links to threads or what to search for is appreciated.

If it helps, my budget is pretty lofty as I prefer spending money to do best practices.

Is 4.5L the way to go? ( other options like a different motor? )
How much boost will I need? ( twin turbo )
Where can I turn to for fuel 93/e85 ( I did a fore setup recently )
Are the stock heads the best flowing ones available?

I wouldn't mind hitting 1000whp for a dyno sheet, but realistically I like to enjoy my cars at 90% of their max.

Any links to other peoples builds would be wonderful.

Thanks for answering any redundant questions, its difficult to get started especially when a site is as established as this one.

Start by looking in the members Gallery.

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ed-builds.html

Here's a good place to start.

That too.

You do not need a stroker to achieve those desired numbers, and to be honest you would never be able to put that power to the ground on our cars. Actually it's funny because most who have had stroker motors are not getting the numbers they wanted and end up selling.. Research...
My car is almost finished with my new closed deck block and I told them to keep it around 800-850 on race gas and I have 10,1 cp pistons with a 6466 twin scroll 1.15 ar...

Stock displacement will get you there all day.

What about the stock internals, is it worth upgrading those? I'll search for it, couldnt find a book on these motors either on amazon.

Reading this for more info: http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...thstand-2.html

If you haven't picked a TT kit give us a PM we have a complete package to get you to your goals. Everything from motor to fuel system to TT kit.

4.5l you will have to deal with alot.of heat issues

hmm i noticed this

Since we are familiar with the setup or motor being questioned. Let us help clear up any confusion. The customer who sold his bare block is keeping his stroker crank. He still plans on staying a stroker motor but rather a 4.0L motor instead of his 4.5L setup.

We have had extensive conversations with said customer on this topic of why he wanted to drop displacement and it came down to usable power. The said customer on his "Base" tune and I will repeat this again his Base tune on waste gate pressure was making over 800 ft/lbs of TQ to the wheels by 4000rpms. This was 325 more ft/lbs than he had on his last intake setup. His spool came in over 1000rpms sooner than his previous setup and he was making hundreds of hp and tq more mid range power than his previous setup. And because he still drives the car on the street and with this much TQ on demand he wanted to change the characteristics of the car. Any real tuner will tell you that there is only so much you can do to minimize TQ. Given his extra .8L of displacement over stock he had more power than the chassis and tires could handle that early in the RPM range. This is something he found out first hand at the top dawg event and Zdayz mountain runs.

Given his experiences with the car his best solution was to drop some displacement and in the process he has partnered with us on an ultimate closed deck block that will be the pinnacle of what we offer. It starts its life off just like the closed deck block that cosmo is running in his new build but with all the upgrades we can throw at it.

Anyone stating that the stroker motors dont make power do not have enough experience in the industry or in this platform. Our Gamermodz sponsored Z is the current 350z world record holder making over 1100hp on a 4.5L... so yes they make power...

Lets keep everything factual here and not subject the forum to conjecture that is unfounded and based on ones opinions:tiphat:

There are mods that can be done to mitigate the heat issue. Bullitt took several of these mods and will be bringing them over to his 4.0L build. Remember going to a 4.5L means your pushing 100mm pistons through the cylinder. This large of a piston creates more friction and vibration which in turn creates more heat. If the proper mods are done you can have a reliable car. Bullitt drove his car 3 hours in 100* weather without over heating. Then again he also took the necessary steps to keep the motor cool.

that makes sense... i was going on what was said about it creating heat and him saying that it's true and he suggests a closed deck upgrade.

what record does the 1100hp 350z have?

I ended up going with a 4L stroker. Thanks all. Now to figure out best practices for the block. Should I go closed deck? Zero deck it? I'll search around and also look up head work.

Is it necessary to have a closed deck to get high numbers? I've been thinking of going with a single turbo setup instead but 800+ would still be the goal.

To the OP you have a very legitimate question and we have a lot of customers ask this question. Since you decided on a 4.0L we can give you an example of what our newest build is:

Bullitt5897's 4.0L closed deck motor

Bryant racing billet 4.0L crank
LA Sleeves
Carillo rods
CP 96mm pistons
Race bearings
Oil pump gear upgrade

Now here is the explanation of the parts and why:
Bryant racing cranks are the absolute best cranks on the market! Perfectly balanced and bulletproof!
LA Sleeves are also another point of strength. Coupled with a closed deck collar the sleeves give the cylinder the rigidity it needs for high boost applications.
Carrillo rods and cp Pistons are the best in the industry and you just can't beat them.
The upgraded oil pump gears are crucial to the longevity of the oiling system and will ensure the oil pump stays pumping up to super high rpms!

So OP to answer your question:
We would recommend closed deck blocks for all of our customers. They work very well and many of our new high horsepower clients are making the switch. Sleeving the cylinders will make sure that your cylinders can take a beating in the worse case scenarios and still have a salvageable motor. For anyone pushing the limits we recommend sleeving the motors. Sleeves cost about $600 and is a great insurance policy to save your block.

If you would like a personal quote or just want a more personal answer based on your build send us a pm and we will be more than happy to guide you in the right direction so that you only have to do this once.


- The RJ MFG team

No a closed deck is not needed but it gives the cylinder walls extra rigidity at the top where you see the most force due to the stroker cranks and larger bore Pistons. Think of it as an insurance policy for your cylinders. We are big advocates of proven technology and that's what we bring to the market. From our oil pump gears, GTR intake conversions and closed deck blocks all proven to work and be reliable.

Abec, glad to hear you made a choice, I barely keep the engine build thread up to date as many of the manufacturer for parts do not directly list parts for the VQ37 on their website. Typically I have seen VQ35 but no mention of the 3.7 engine which makes it difficult to know if they support our engine or not.

I will say, it seems some known and new companies are producing parts so it might be a time to re-build the sticky.