Quick Question - Brian Crower Stroker Kit
 

BrianCrower.com

On this stroker kit, how much pounds of boost will I be able to hold up?
I'm looking to build internals on top of this stroker kit, so what type of horsepower do you think it'll run with a built engine on this stroker kit?
What turbo kit will work well with this stroker kit?

Thanks for the help

What are your power goals and do you plan on putting that power down to the ground or just want high dyno numbers. Most any turbo kit these days can get you where you want to be.

Also, this stroker kit will already be forged. So this kit will make your bottom end "built".

Like Cosmo said, you can't go wrong with the turbo kits available. The main 3 seem to be Boosted Performance, AAM, and Fast Intentions. Fast Intentions is def a forum favorite. All 3 of those will get you to your goals with the right planning (turbo sizes and appropriate fuel upgrades).

I have the stroker kit FS if you're interested. With low compression for boosted applications.

No certain power goals, I'm looking to see the max power I can get. Definitely planning on putting that power to the ground though.


I see, I was thinking of buying the FI TT kit, but I'm wondering with the combination of the stroker kit and the FI TT kit, how much pounds of boost will I be able to hold up?

I'm also planning on purchasing

Air: AAM COMPETITION 370Z R-LINE 3" TRUE DUAL EXHAUST, AAM COMPETITION 370Z 2.5" RESONATED TEST PIPES, Nissan 370Z 409 Stainless Steel Headers - Ceramic Coated, FI TT Kit

Fuel: 370Z DRAG RACE R-LINE TWIN PUMP FUEL SYSTEM, AAM COMPETITION 370Z FUEL RAIL AND LINE KIT, INJECTOR DYNAMICS ID2000 INJECTORS

Oil: AAM COMPETITION 370Z R-LINE OIL COOLING SYSTEM, MISHIMOTOR 370Z 66 DEGREE RACING THERMOSTAT AND HOUSING, Mishimoto Radiator

Also planning on purchasing other performance parts such as headgasket, ECU, clutch, differential, studs, etc..

I'll also be getting necessary parts to go along with the power such as brakes, sway bars, coils, racing seats & harnesses, etc..

So, with a FULLY built engine and all other necessary requirements, how much boost do you all suggest I'll be able to hold up?

How much boost is a function of turbo choice. 10psi out of a huge turbo is a lot more air than 10 psi out of a small one, so you can't just ask "how much boost".

Also, FI has a 3" exhaust and oil cooler and your fuel system should come from CJM. Ditch the AAM and mishimoto stuff. You don't run headers with a turbo.

I second this recommendation...


(your fuel system should come from CJM)

:iagree: Plus you won't need test pipes when Fast Intentions provide different options of downpipes for their turbo applications.

I would shy away from ordering a BC stroker... I have heard horror stories...

That and I have held the OEM, BC and Mine all side by side. The OEM and Mine were much better quality.

Mine is a private label crank for GTM but here is the manufacturer:
Billet Crankshafts | Crankshaft Repair - We Fix Crankshafts - Marine Crankshaft, Inc. - Outboard Crankshaft Repair

Being as I have span the gamut of power levels for this platform... I have had my hands on a 600whp car all the way up to my current 1000whp car soon to be alot more. I will give you some sound advice that will spare your wallet.

The 3.7L is more than capable of making 1000whp. I would get a closed deck block go with a stage 2 Fast intentions kit with all the options. I would look to CJM for your fuel needs or if your a ways out Fore innovations may have a solution for us at a GOOD price. Each manufacturer of their turbo kits has an ideal setup and after talking with multiple manufacturers my money is on Tony and Team @ FI. Their kit has the best design to date for mid mount twins and is more than enough to get you to any power goal you want. ohhh and as far as clutches go stick to OS giken double for anything under a 1000whp you wont regret it.

Remember speed costs money... how fast can you afford to go?

My first round cost me greatly! my second round is going to cost me nearly $20k just switching kits and gettign upgrades for parts I expected to break.

And his shiat afterwards better put out or he's going to catch A lot of Hell from me... lol But as much as I hate to admit it he's right about the price point. How deep in those pockets are you willing go? Remember in the 350z days 400-500whp used to be the **** but now the bar is constantly being pushed higher and higher..

Yeah, I don't have any idea about the reliability of certain parts, but I am looking to do the best and most reliable build possible at the same time. Any help would be appreciated

If your set on going stroker I would go closed deck and a 4.0L stroker. As far as internals go look to cp or arias Pistons, k1 as budget rods or Carrillo pro h rods as the go to bulletproof rods. I would also port the heads and upgrade the valves and retainers in your heads. If you want to go up in size on the valves that's fine but no more than 1mm. That should cover the general items.

Again I would start with figuring out what kind of power you want because chances are you won't even need a stroker kit. Build a motor (and it doesn't have to be a closed deck block unless your planning on going over 1000whp but the no one knows what the limitations are on this new block either) and go BP or Fast Intentions. 600whp is more than enough hp for the street unless you want a dyno queen and have your car down all of the time..

The benefit of the stroker kit is your low end torque. Not only that but with the normal size turbos (meant for the 3.7L) you will be flowing more cfm than the 3.7L which means the turbos should spool faster but with the negative effect of a lower top end. This is all dependent on the turbos you pick and the size stroker you go with. A big advantage of not going bigger than 4.0L is that you get to have stock bore size. One of the downsides of the 4.5L is the larger rotating mass which requires a special cometic head gasket. A plus side is the car has a lot more torque and acts more like a hi revving v8.

Keep in mind traction in a boosted z the first 2 gears are pretty much a waste because all you would do is spin the tires from the power. Based on that FACT save your money on buying a stroker kit kit because you don't need anymore tq down low. Again where do you want to be in power and how big is your wallet??

There is it. The real question here is do you want a single turbo setup or twin turbo setup. Both have there pros and cons. As far as I am concerned, there is only one choice for each setup. All of the others that are available are suspect in my book.

If Phunk (CJM) is still selling his Greddy Twins, that would be a pretty good move as well.

Considering these two have spent close to a new house buying turbos, motors, and whatever upgrades I would take their two cents. Do some researching on guys who have built some crazy Z with stroker kits. You definitely have the funds are great, and once you get that beast up and running you will want more power. Like Cosmo said how much money you have to spend will determine how much power you will make.

All this talk of big power, makes me horny. :leghump:

The OP can always do a staged build and spend the "house" over the course of a couple years. The key is engineering the build and choosing parts that allow for growth.

But hey, go all the way if funds are plentiful!

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I see, so sticking with the stock block would be a smarter idea if you're not really looking to fabricate. It'd be better to stick with that 3.7 block and just build from there. What do you think is a good idea for crank if I stick with the stock block?

Not sure, do you have any idea how much pounds of boost the FI Stage 3 kit will go at max? I'm pretty sure I'm not going to reach that max limit anyways, just curious. I'm looking to reach 1000hp and above, reliably.

I'm looking for 1000hp, and I'll definitely do some research on people who have previously purchased the stroker kit and I'll see what they've come out with.
:iagree:

OP the stock crank will be fine for under 1000hp and daily driving. Since many here are already doing that. The link I posted earlier can make you a billet crank which is what I am running but specs for the stock 3.7L. That's the route I would go.

As for your question on the fast intentions stage 3 kit. You should expect about 1100whp out of it. There is only one person with the kit "carbon Z" and his car won't be running until after zdayz. I have talked with fast intentions at length on their turbo choice for the stage 3 and the stage 4 in my case and I am fairly confident that carbon Z will make 1100whp. Whether that's with over 30psi or mid 20's is yet to be seen. And because there are no public turbo maps for these turbos I couldn't tell you where the efficiency ranges are and where you theoretically be able to make that power.

A closed deck 3.7 with a FI stage 2 will make 1000bhp no problem!!!! A stage 3 will make it in whp and a stage 4 will make it on pump gas with ease.

Keep in mind the closed deck block has yet to be tested to it's limitations and reliabilities.. I would highly suggest going with what has been tested and true by people who are not trying endorse others products here on the forum.. You do not need a stroker kit or a closed deck block to reach your hp goals . Just trying to save you time and money but to each his own. Also keep in mind with those power levels you would never to be able to put that power to the ground unless you make a blown race car out of the z.

Cosmo,

Then why are you running a closed deck block? There are significant cooling advantages to a closed deck block versus our factory open deck.

As for putting the power down if I am able to put down over 700tq then yes it's doable... Ecutek has a great traction control system and is arguably better than the race logic system. With the bigger turbos the power curve is different. On a stage 1 kit from fast intentions the first two years are hard to manage based on how quickly torque comes on. On a stage 2 kit 2nd gear becomes manageable. I believe with the stage 3 and 4 kits maintaining traction with an aide like ecutek is very doable given my own experiences.

I see what you mean, I've viewed CarbonZ's 1000 hp build thread but haven't checked back in awhile. I'll keep updated on his thread to see how his build turns out. Since he's the only one with the FI Stage 3 kit, hopefully he'll make a review on it. But, seeing as many people are very happy with the FI Stage 2, it obviously proves FI is reliable, so I don't see why Stage 3 would be any worse, if not better.

So I should plan to build off of my stock 3.7 block, and scratch the stroker kit idea? With a built 3.7 engine and the FI Stage 3 kit, I should be able to reach 1000 hp safely?
Also, do you know anyone whose got the 370Z R-LINE TWIN PUMP FUEL SYSTEM from AAM? It seems like it'll do well, but I don't know how reliable it is.
Of course I might just go with CJM for my fuel.


Thanks for the help

A built 3.7L motor will get you to 1000hp without a problem. However, its to be noted that quality components and a good engine builder can make or break your car and its reliability. For internals I would look into Arias, CP, Mahle, and Carillo. These are the top manufacturers that everyoe with a reliable build is running. A few have chosen K1 rods which are a medium grade budget rod. Its a great rod for those in the 600-700hp range but for 1000hp I would go carillo or Mahle. Arias and CP make great pistons for the Z and have proven to be extremely tough.

Just remember when you go stage 3 with FI they customize your turbos to your motor size to ensure you get the best efficiency and response from the kit. I have had long conversations with Tony (the owner) of Fast Intentions and their mentality to Turbo kits is SPOT ON!

As far as fuel system there are multiple options AAM is one option. However CJM is another option. You will want to go to a twin pump and ID1300's as a minimum.

Remember when you mod this far you have to have the expectation that more service is going to be needed. The reason I say this is because your taking a car making 330bhp and now pushing 350+% more power through the chassis and drivetrain. If your wanting to stage the build I would get a built motor with mild headwork (upgraded valves and retainers plus a port job) in stock displacement and compression and run that until your ready to throw the TT kit and fuel system in at one time.

Staging the install is going to cost your more in the long run if you are using a shop to do the labor. its best to do it all in 1 shot and I would splurge and get ecutek!

10psi is 10psi as the measurement is not taken at the turbo but out of the downstream system, (ie intake pipes and manifold). Now a larger turbo will make a higher boost number and will be running at a much lower percentage of capacity than a smaller turbo at a given boost number. That's where the benefits are derived.

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You have to take flow into consideration. 10psi out of a large turbo is a lot more cfm than the same psi out of a small turbo.

No, it is not. A larger turbo has the potential to flow more cfm and will be using a smaller percentage of its flow potential at the same PSI than a smaller turbo would, but 10 PSI is 10 PSI. If the downstream tubes are larger it would take more volume of air to create 10 lbs of pressure but you would still only have 10 PSI.

PSI is a function of pressure, not volume. The reason it is called FORCED Induction is that you are forcing air into the motor at a rate exceeding what the motor pulls on its own. You can have an unlimited volume (vented to the atmosphere right off of the manifold) of air available and (assuming a correctly designed intake ie no flow restriction) will still only pull in what the motor pulls through its intakes. When you add FI you are utilizing the pressure (PSI bar etc) the device creates to force more air into the motor. Thus 10PSI of air entering the same intake manifold will always be the same 10 PSI of air no matter the size of the pump. The only way to get more air into the motor is to increase the pounds per inch.


What you are describing with the "more cfm" of the larger compressor is pushing more volume into the same space thus raising the PSI of the system.

Ok. So when I look at compressor maps showing flow for different sized turbos showing dramatically different cfm at the same PR, what am I missing?

Like in the following: Compressor maps - examples and explanation

You're confusing the difference in flow and PSI and what each means in terms of getting more air into the motor. If PSI is kept the same the motor could not care less about an increase in flow because without the increase in PSI it is not going to see an increase in the amount of air entering it.

Again, a larger compressor can create higher pressure levels but when run at the same pressure level as a smaller compressor its only advantage is that it is running at a lower percentage of maximum output.

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So it would be a good idea to use these for my build?

Carillo Rods: https://www.z1motorsports.com/engine...hr-p-8883.html

CP Pistons: Can't find the link (link it..?)

FI Stage III: FI 370Z Twin Turbo System, Fast Intentions

AAM Comp Twin Fuel Pump: AAM Competition - Nissan GT-R, 370Z Turbo Performance Specialists (with ID2000 & AAM Fuel Line Kit)

I have other questions for parts that I'd like to have your suggestion on.

Exhaust? I'm thinking of going with the AAM COMPETITION 370Z R-LINE 3" TRUE DUAL EXHAUST, which sounds great! Not sure how reliable though. I was thinking of going with the FI TT TDX, but after watching the video decided against it, not loud enough for me. Also going to go with the AAM 2.5" Test Pipes, but what do you suggest?

Spark plugs..?

No point in going on, I'm basically asking for your opinion on the ENTIRE build for a reliable 1000hp+ 370z.

Thanks for the input man! :tup:

For the fuel system, pm phunk and get his thoughts. He's pretty much a one-stop shop for all your fuel needs.

You're missing the fact that you are confusing flow rate and PSI and what each means to the motor. CFM coming out of the compressor has nothing to do with the PSI (the amount of air) entering the motor. The motor can only naturally accept (Naturally Aspirated) so much air. Forced Induction does what it says forces more air into the motor using a generated pressure difference (PSI, bar, etc.) CFM only comes into play if the compressor cannot flow high enough to make the desired PSI.

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OP to answer your questions:

1. Yes those are the carillo pro H rods and are G2G!
2. Check out the manufacturers websites for the piston part numbers.
3. Yeah that will work
4. There fuel system is good to about 1200whp on pump and 1000whp on e85 according to their tech.
5. Go 3" where ever you can on the exhaust! back pressure on the exhaust will hamper your turbo performance from my experience so far.
6. Go HKS 1 step colder spark plugs or NGK 1 step colder.

Remember this is only the start to the build there are a TON of small items that no one thinks about.... What you have here is a good start but is only the big ticket items... its the little ones that get you once they all add up.

I see, I'll definitely look around and keep updated on other build threads such as CarbonZ's and yours.. I'll let you know when I start my build and hopefully you'll be able to help me out with any questions I have, especially for those "small parts."

Thanks man!

Any time...

You won't need test pipes with a forced induction build. Your turbo downpipes will replace those.

As far as spark plugs, I believe the GTR spark plugs are the NGK step colder plugs. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Also, I'm assuming you will have someone (a shop) build you your motor. If you go that route you should be able to tell them what power you are shooting for and they can (should) build a motor capable of that power. They can source all the parts you need without you even having to think about it. Now, if you do go that route, prepare to spend some change. Shops make money off of selling parts as well as labor. Getting a built motor for 1000whp will be much more expensive than just adding some parts prices together. Some more high profile shops will charge you top dollar. Places like IPP have built motor packages priced pretty well. Do your research and shop around. Call around to all of the big name Z shops and talk with them. Find which ones you feel comfortable with throwing your money at.

You have a lot of research to do. Follow the words of wisdom from some of the guys here on the forums. But also do research outside of these forums and get a good understanding of this crazy turbo world. There are a million variables when it comes to making power like that. Not only in the motor but the entire drivetrain. Tuning. I could go on and on. It's fun, exciting, brain hurting, stressful, expensive, taxing, exhilarating all rolled up in one ball lol. Good luck. You seem like you have been pointed in the right direction.

I've got my own shop down here in Orlando, so I don't think I'll have to have a shop build it for me.. but going to the big Z shops around and asking what parts to use for my 1000hp build is definitely something I'm going to do. My shop isn't as "big" as other places around such as Titan Motorsports, Real Street Performance, etc.. But it's a shop that I use for only my cars, I don't have customers. So more like a personal shop. I'd like to assemble the motor myself, since I'll know 100% sure that every nut and bolt is on there.

That's what I am doing as well. You are going to learn a whole lot in this process and you are going to spend a lot of money on quality tools. That's assuming you don't already have them. If you have any questions feel free to ask. I'm no expert by any means but I know a few things.