New FI club member

TBatt

Seb sent me another tune to try and permission for a WOT run! I'll step into it with a couple of partial throttle runs first and check the AFR before going WOT. Saturday is gonna' be FUN!

The transformation so far has been unreal. The car drives like stock until you put your foot into it. My gas mileage sucks! It's not the car, it's me playing with it and we ain't even at full power yet. But hey, gas prices have been going down lately so enjoy it.

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

TopgunZ

So using your initial butt and fun factor dyno how much power/tq do you think it will have over the water setup?

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TBatt

I don't have that reference as I installed my a2a from the beginning. All of the water parts are still unused in the box. When I get the time I will make these parts available on the forum in case someone would like to have them as spares.

What I can say is that the intake air temp is about 1 degree C above ambient on my part throttle runs. Hopefully I'll have the WOT log done Saturday afternoon. It will be hot so this will be a good test of the a2a. I've been really studying my Ecutek and AEM data logs. So far the car is running great!

I will have the car on the dyno August 6th then we will know for sure just how much fire this dragon breaths!

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

EliteXpress

It's really nice to see these builds coming alone successfully, most all proving that this is a much better setup going Air2Air. I only wished this alternative was available for me when I had my supercharged Z. Continue the great work topgunZ, you have really changed the game for the Stillen guy's.

TopgunZ

Thanks man. Glad I can help others obtain better results and put this motor to good use more reliably.

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ROTREX SUPERCHARGER TUNER KITS - $6799/ CUSTOM STILLEN AIR TO AIR KITS -$2100/ 700+ WHP!! WWW.TOPGUNSPEEDWORKS.COM

TBatt

First WOT run was made on Saturday and the boost was low. I have the 9 psi pulley on the SC but the max boost recorded was only 7.2 psi. Sealing the MAFs with RTV and will re-run maybe today. I also have the larger idler to install on the SC drive belt. I'll go ahead and get it installed too. It has been so dang hot that working on the car hasn't been a lot of fun. I have a large shop fan and a couple of smaller ones that I blast toward me while working. Feels like I'm working in a hurricane but it makes it tolerable.

Otherwise the car is running great! Seb is a magician!! Still, with "only" 7 psi it was amazing! The car pulls like craZy!

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

TopgunZ

A good way to check for leaks is to use a shrader valve in a 2.5" pvc pipe cap and put it on a coupler as far uspstream as possible and pressurize your system.

This is what i did and i found a leak with ease. You can hear the air coming out.

Guess where my leak was?...... one of the maf seals..lol.

That stillen manifold could easily be a culprit as well.

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ROTREX SUPERCHARGER TUNER KITS - $6799/ CUSTOM STILLEN AIR TO AIR KITS -$2100/ 700+ WHP!! WWW.TOPGUNSPEEDWORKS.COM

TBatt

My Supra buddy suggested the same thing. I'll try a run this afternoon and see what my AEM log says. So far it is within .1 psi of what the MAP sensor reads according to the Ecutek log. The nice thing about the AEM is that it is logging all of the time so all I have to do is plug it in to my laptop and download it to see what is going on. It records two hours of data and then starts overwriting the old data so you always have two hours of history available.

One of my new front tires is bad. I took the car back to the tire shop and they now have 3 1/2 ounces of weight on the left front tire and it still isn't right. I called Tire Rack and they are sending me a new tire. Great people to work with!

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

TBatt

When I made my WOT run and got off the throttle I heard a loud clunking sound coming from the front. I pushed the clutch in and the sound immediately stopped. When I let the clutch back out the noise came back too. After the car had slowed down the noise was gone. When I got back to the house I started looking for what could have caused the noise. It was caused by the torquing of the motor while decelerating. If I put the car in reverse and popped the clutch the same sound could be heard.

The problem was the front throttle body was touching the tower brace. There was zero clearance and when the car was accelerating it was just pushing harder on the brace but when the torque was reversed the throttle body and the brace were banging into each other. Anyone else had this interference problem?

The solution was simple, I just added some washers under the brace and now the noise is gone. I knew that there wasn't much clearance there but the two parts were in constant contact without the spacers.

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

TBatt

Sealed the MAFs and installed the larger idler pulley so I have lots of tension on the SC drive belt. No luck. Still only getting 7 psi of boost.

I replaced the 3.4 inch SC pulley with a 2.92 from Vortec and that should have put me at 9psi so I have a leak somewhere. Next culprit is probably the Stillen intake plenum. I'm pretty sure that the block off plate is sealed good but the problem could be the silicone mating gasket where the upper manifold mates to the lower. If it is leaking under pressure it should also be leaking under vacuum so I might be able to use the propane test to check for a leak up under the plenum. Has anyone tried this? The method is to attach a rubber hose to a propane torch and open the valve so a small amount of gas is coming out and then run the hose around suspect areas. If a leak is found the engine idle will change. Of course this is done in a well ventilated area with moving air.

As you know, getting the intake filter off to do a pressure test is not easy or simple but it may be the only good method of checking for leaks. I think I would rather fabricate a pressure adapter to the pipe feeding air into the intercooler core, where the pipe mates to the SC. This would allow me to check everything except the junction of the SC to pipe.

I'm open for suggestions.

Otherwise the car hauls AZZ. I have a open diff on the car that will soon be replaced with a Quaife. At about 6500 rpm (80mph) the rear wheels are breaking loose! The traction control light starts flashing. On my next run I turned off TC to make sure the TC was not cutting power. Amazing that the car is developing enough power to spin 305 RE-11 tires AT 80MPH! The Quaife should help that issue out. Can't wait to get full boost.

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

TopgunZ

List your pulley sizes for me:

Serp side =
Jackshaft =
Supercharger =

Also, I had tried the propane method and it didn't work for me. Thats when i pressurized the system and BOOM. There it was, super easy to see at that point. I had the propane all around that area too and it didnt blip the idle at all.

Here you go. If you have Prime then and order it today it will all be there for you Friday. I cant remember if the 2.5" is the inner or outer diameter but you get the picture. I'd just take a silicone coupler in to Home depot or the like and find the cap that fits. Drill a hole in there. Use a couple rubber washers and a nut and your done.

WARNING: Do not stand in front of this when you are charging it. Mine came out once and luckily it was facing a wall. It hit the wall at like 100mph. That would have hurt..lol. I scuffed up the sides of it so it had a little better bite and it never came out again. Hold on to it when filling it so if it does come out it doesnt smack your hand.

https://www.amazon.com/Control-Devic...schrader+valve

https://www.amazon.com/Genova-Produc....5%22+pipe+cap

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TBatt

Serp side = stock (size?)
Jackshaft = stock (3.2?)
SC = 2.92

Thanks!!!

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

TopgunZ

Yeah you must either have a leak, or your boost gauge is Ef'd. What gauge are you running?

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ROTREX SUPERCHARGER TUNER KITS - $6799/ CUSTOM STILLEN AIR TO AIR KITS -$2100/ 700+ WHP!! WWW.TOPGUNSPEEDWORKS.COM

TBatt

Boost gauge is a AEM Failsafe. The MAP sensor/Ecutek log and the AEM data log both agree that the boost is only 7.2 psi. I'll plan on doing a leak test this week.

My Supra buddy had a similar problem and he had to do the same to find his problem.

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

TBatt

I forgot to mention how well the BOV muffler works! Sounds really smooth without a lot of drama. For less than $10 it is also a cheap fix. You can see it back on page 4.

It is capable of flowing 150CFM at 300 PSI so it is very low restriction. Drops the noise by 20db which is a lot!

I'll be heading to the hardware store on the way home to pick up items to do my leak test this weekend. Wish me luck!

I don't think the leak is coming from the intake gasket because the manifold vacuum is really strong according to my gauge. The MAFs are sealed so it must be a coupler somewhere.

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!