Limp Stillen Supercharger dtc p1239
 

My Z will go Limp, taking all Throttle response from me.
No pattern. Have to coast off the road to restart.
Mostly takes One restart attempt.
Can take 10-20 restart tries before it will take throttle from idle.
I've done all the re-Learns, no wire pinches, or rubbing.
I replaced the Throttle Body (Bank2) originally,left-side,drivers-side
but I'm still Limp (no viagra jokes)

I am wondering ...
Does the fact that I can't easily get it out of Limp Mode point to anything?

http://www.the370z.com/tuning/35524-z-unresponsive.html

check this thread

How long has the Stillen kit been on the car? Is it doing it when you coast to a stop?

It's been on the car four months, 3000 miles. I did the 1st SC oil change 500 miles ago. I would say, yes, to the coasting part. It does seem to glitch when rolling under no load. Even an accelerator pedal release to slow on the freeway.
Also, I took it to redline in 3rd gear yesterday at WOT, & noticed power surging every second or so from 5000 rpm up. If that means something. At least I have ruled out the Bank 2 Throttle Body, and any component built into it. Maybe that just leaves the Accel Pedal assembly ? not sure. To be honest, I don't even own an ohm meter. That will be my next purchase. Then I can properly go through the Nissan Service Manual Diagnosis for dtc P1239.

Look in your front bumper, can you see your air filters?

Odds are the black plastic piece that blocks the lower filter from getting direct are is missing. If its not there the lower MAF get air flowing through it and the top one doesn't, when that happens the car starts dumping fuel because of the strange reading. I've helped 5 or 6 people with this problem, all have made a larger block for the air and it went away.

Check the extension cables that came with the Stillen kit. Make sure they are fully plugged in and not pinched or anything.

Before the install, I did read where people were making U-shaped metal pieces to block air. My kit came with a Heavy Gauge Steel piece that bolts to the underside of the bumper & Z-bends down & back to route air below the filters. Airflow is not hitting on the side of the filters, but I am willing to eliminate any problem areas.
see 2 pictures of my shield
I guess the front end is coming off this weekend.
And then is it a shield attached to the bumper that 'semi-tightly' wraps both filters ?? (top & Bottom) ??

I understand Nissan throwing a Trouble Code, but disabling the vehicle seems dangerous to me.
Of course, I have modified said vehicle, so my heirs owning Nissan any time soon seems unlikely.
[IMG]http://www.mynetimages.com/5611e15b60.jpg[/IMG]
http://www.mynetimages.com/afad80997f.jpg

That looks good, that's probably not your problem.

First, Thank you for your time & help.
Let's say it's a Lower Filter/maf issue that you said gave people similar symptoms.
Right now p1239 points at Bank 2. I can switch the maf extension cables inside the engine compartment. If I switch them, & I AM getting turbulence hitting the Lower filter, might it then show that the Throttle Position Sensor Bank 1 is faulty ?
if so, Then I could work on that issue with the mafs. & could use a good description of the shield people are making.
if it still throws the same code1239/bank2 --> could I eliminate the maf sensors ?

Did you try the throttle relearn?

My shield was about 12" long and deep enough that I could wrap it about half way the back of the lower filter. I screwed it to the metal bumper after hand bending it into shape. What you described sounded just like how my car acted but I don't recall if it gave me a code or not.

Swapping the MAF wires should make it change sides if that is the problem but if it's a bad MAF wire it would also change sides. I would say it's worth trying.

Yes, I always run through the 3 resets.
pedal released position relearn, throttle valve closed position relearn, & the idle-air volume relearn. The idle-air relearn can be tricky. My experience with that relearn procedure has taught me to recognize when it does not take correctly. (I think) After the 5 pedal pushes, 7 second wait, & the final pedal push --> if the check engine light goes steady before say 10 seconds, then you need to try again. If it's done properly, it will be in the 12-18 second range after the final pedal push, before the light goes steady & you release the pedal within 3 seconds from that. Then let it idle for 20-30 seconds.

Here we go.
To sum it up so far. Originally getting code p1239 after Z disables itself in limp mode. Replaced full Throttle Body Bank2/left/driver-side. After the same problem, to see if it might be the lower-filter MAF air-turbulence problem, I switched the MAF cables under the hood to see if it would fault Bank 1 throttle position sensor instead. I am now getting the same p1239 code after that switch. So, it does not matter which MAF is sending the signal for Bank 2.
Moving forward to the Stillen Throttle Body extension cable. I checked continuity of each wire in the TB extension cable used for that Bank 2 Throttle Body. That looks good.
I have also used Osirus to check that my Accelerator Pedal is sending proper Voltage to both Banks equally.
I'm stumped. Had my 4 yr. old battery showing 12.00 volts at rest with Osirus.
Pulled it & had it tested --> showed good --> bought a new one anyway, & putting it in today.

I was out of ideas when I had the same problem. As a last attempt at *anything*, I looked up wire shielding in case there was any interference getting in the way of the TPS extension cable supplied by Stillen. That's the one that crosses over the front of the motor. I ended up wrapping my cable extension cable from connector to connector with aluminum foil, and letting it ground itself on the block. I used electrical tape to secure it, and made sure there were not any exposed wires. Well, coincidence or not, I haven't had the problem since. It's worth a try, won't cost you anything.

This is my Therapy post.
I've been battling this intermittent problem over a month.
I will personally strangle the original, overpaid developer of 'Limp Mode'.
please, nissan, just throw the code --> don't kill me.
(I love my Z) Lucky for me ... it is my weekend ride.
Yesterday, I went for a test drive after the engine-bay switch of the MAF cables (and successful idle-air-volume relearns after warm-up). I was trying to get home after it Faulted the same code. Basically, I-20 freeway cruising. It went limp, & I had to pull over in the EXACT same place that I have had to before. What the heck? I was looking for power lines, UFO's, CIA ?? Of course, I've driven past there several times without issue. It's a MIND thing.
Last night, going to get a new Battery (for Grins) ... I caught myself, in the TRUCK, driving in the right lane, in case I went Limp. :rofl2:

Radioflyer,
I was just reading again the link you referenced Early On to me about p1239 & about the foil shielding on the TB extension cable. JWillis72 has been working with me help eliminate the MAF & filter-shield areas. I had not had a chance yet to say Thanks to You yet. Thanks. Now I see your post reinforcing the idea to shield. That is my next try today. Thank you for mentioning that it also needs to ground, awesome! Did you read my joke about power lines ?? In my p1239 Journey, I have actually had two exact places where it has gone limp. I will be better scouting both of those areas today. (simply because We want to Know)

They also have things called ferrite beads to help kill electrical noise. Supper cheap, just clip them around the cable on the computer side.

Had this exact same problem, too the T.

Theres a problem with the extended throttle body cable.

Before stillen had the replacement cable throttle body harness, you had to solder them together, I found a huge change in resistance when the wire was moved.

You might want to consider resetting the ECM if it's a box tune. Mine is still running great.


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Have you checked the pump and coolant level for the Stillen intake heat exchanger?

That would definitely cause this kind of problem.

Did you fix the cable or did Stillen replace it?

I work in the aerospace industry as a EE and this kind of stuff happens all of the time unless proper procedures are used for making cables. Our standards are very high but sh*t still happens.........

I've got a couple days, & about 100 miles, on this foil-fix.
It also fixed some power-surging I was getting at full throttle.
Originally, the TB Extension Cable was routed across the engine -> hidden down under.
During the p1239 codes, I had already plugged, & unplugged this cable for connection problems. I never re-routed it.
So, it was either moving it up above the engine, or foil-wrapping, & grounding the wrap that has helped it.
A third possibility is that Z's just respond well to Bling !! They also respond well to a 40 lb. Bag of dog food in the back.

I called Stillen yesterday to price 2 TB gaskets & a new TB ext. cable.
They requested my trouble code & a picture of the cable I needed.
Maybe I will hear from them today about the 'price'.


http://www.mynetimages.com/f5f2601283.jpg

^ That looks pretty similar to mine, only mine is under more of the crossover stuff. I put mine under so the foil grounds itself by laying on the engine block. Either way, believe it or not, I think the foil actually helps this issue.

If you use Christmas wrapping maybe you'll get 550hp........


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Use something like this....

https://www.zippertubing.com/EMI-Shi...Shield-AL.html

To offer EMI protection for cables. Tinfoil is not a permanent solution, when you crumple it up and wrap it you cause small tears in it, plus the car vibrations degrade it too,

Not to mention that electro magnetic interference (EMI) shielding is useless without a proper ground (drain). Wrapping foil around wires can only be effective if the foil is well grounded.

No problems on today's Drive either. I totally thumbs-up this fix.
I wrapped copper-strands into and around the foil at about mid-point & bolt-grounded it to the block. (nothing is crushing anything). I still have my MAF connections under the hood switched, & untidy too. I will tuck things away before it's all over with. haha I know, isn't that gawdy?


Z-con 2009 san antonio -- 09 PG nismo & stillen GTR

http://www.mynetimages.com/24a86507b2.jpg

I followed up with Stillen today about my parts.
I guess I didn't convince them that my Cable was faulty. The TB cable was $30. I bought the kit 11-5-15.
The TB gaskets I wanted for Spares were $4 each. Not too bad a price on either item.

I have had the new TB extension cable on for a week or two. I routed it above direct engine-block heat. It is not foil-wrapped.
I did want to offer a small factoid about the extension cable. I don't think it was my specific problem, but I feel it is good info. to pass on.
When connecting any of the TB connectors, there are TWO distinct clicks. The connector is 90% on when the 1st click occurs. Then to fully connect it, & hear the 2nd click, it pushes in about 10% more. I had three different companies with SC Kit experience tell me the same thing. --> That some people stop after the 1st click, & it can throw the p1239 code. It was Stillen, UpRev, & JoTech.

Following. Just ran into the same code and limp mode after an ecutek tune, so I tried the foil for now and rerouted the wires. Will see if it resolves the issue.

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I've been on a New TB Cable with no Foil Wrap since my last posting. Taken two 500 mile trips .... no issues.
My cable is routed along the existing wire-loom across the top/front of the motor --> away from direct engine block heat.

Be sure to do these:

2003-2011 Nissan 350Z - 370Z Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning Procedure | Nissanhelp.com

2003-2011 Nissan 350Z - 370Z Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Procedure | Nissanhelp.com

2003-2011 Nissan 350Z - 370Z Idle Air Volume Learning Procedure | Nissanhelp.com

Read my note on the Idle Air Volume about how long the engine light should blink before going steady ... to make sure it takes properly.
Good luck.

Fantastic, thanks for the info! I got a quote from Stillen, I'll go ahead and order that replacement TB Extension Cable.

Replaced the cable, and no further issues here. Thanks!

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Add one more to the list of people experiencing this problem. I just placed my order with Stillen, and I'll try the temporary foil solution until it arrives. Thank you for following up with results on this post, it was very helpful :tiphat:

Guys, Stillen has done an upgrade on the MAF and Throttlebody extension cables. I was having the same problem and after talking to the tech at Stillen he sent me a new cable set and it cured the problem. YOU DO NOT NEED TO PUT FOIL OVER THE CABLE.

It seems that the wire gauge Stillen was using for the crimp connectors was too small causing an unreliable crimp and intermittent problems. I know, I fought this issue for months until I called Stillen. After the new cables were installed it has been 100% reliable.

Did you need both MAF and Throttle body extension cables?

TBatt, Do you know when they Upgraded Cables ?

I still have the problem, but NOT Frequently.
Did the 'steering wheel lock' Disable, & when I loose throttle now ....
hold the start button a couple seconds until it Kills,
tap it back to the ON position, push it again to Re-Start the motor....
If you have throttle after that ...
you're still Rolling --> so back in gear, & down the road you go.

TBat -> Chill man. haha Baby Likes Bling.

I agree with this though. The foil wrap was being desperate. If you Un-plug, & Re-plug the 4 'underhood' throttle-body cable Connectors ... Then I think you will be ahead of the Foil fix. I did the foil, & praised it, & still have it that way.
I also Still have the Limp-mode glitch.

My baby just started doing this crap too. What a terrible feeling going dead in the water in a Z!!! My Stillen was on the first engine (before I threw a rod through the block in March with 22K on her) and it never did this, so I'll try the resets tomorrow and maybe add some bling to see if it stops. Headed to AMP in two weeks to kick some Mustang butt and certainly don't need to go limp on the track. Thanks for posting the relearn links wymoteeZ.


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