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I just looked looked at the Michigan Motorsports extensions. They are 5-wire extensions. You could not use them to connect to the TB since the TB connections are 6-wire. All
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#1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Pittsburgh
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I just looked looked at the Michigan Motorsports extensions. They are 5-wire extensions. You could not use them to connect to the TB since the TB connections are 6-wire. All of the Stillen extensions are 6-wire so you can use any of the three that come with the kit to extend to the TB.
I will say, however, that I have tried all three of the Stillen extensions to connect to my TB and at some point or another all three have hit me with the P1239 code. |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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I believe its a heat issue with the wires and going to wrap them in a thermal sleeve as some suggested. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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I've been having this same issue and it's really affecting my enjoyment of the car. It's happened to me probably 7 or 8 times this summer / fall. Seems to be increasing in frequency. It's to the point where I'm uncomfortable driving the car in heavy traffic b/c I never know when it's going to go limp. I've emailed Stillen about this, but of course, I've not heard back from them. I just ordered the Michigan Motorsports cable, so I'll see if that helps / fixes it. Thanks @Z4fun for finding & posting that!
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TopGunZ Rotrex SC / CJM RFS / 1300 / Ecutek / Dynosty / F.I. TP & CBE / Z1 / Swift / SPL / Whiteline / Hotchkis / Michelin SP4 |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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I would of bought Topgunz cables since he is selling them for $20, if I knew before. Awesome guy, definitely support him ! My issue was the same it ran fine for about 1 year , then started acting up once in a while then more and more often. Cables shouldn't react like that unless there's an external force acting on them to lower the life span like (heat , tention, ice, ect) I feel changing the cable is a bandaid if we don't fix the underlying issue. I have the car with my mechanic and we are gonna try to find a way to resolve it permanently, if we can reroute them somehow, or if not insulate the hell out of them I will send some pics when we figure it out. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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I checked w/ Aaron a while back & the replacement cables that he has are the same ones (Stillen Gen II) that came w/ the full SC kit that I bought from him. So, I'm wanting to try something different. I will also try wrapping / insulating the new cable.
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TopGunZ Rotrex SC / CJM RFS / 1300 / Ecutek / Dynosty / F.I. TP & CBE / Z1 / Swift / SPL / Whiteline / Hotchkis / Michelin SP4 |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Hey guys , after some testing and research we concluded the cause is 100% heat. since the wire is being heated its increasing the resistance causing and interruption in the signal throwing the tb off and causing it to go into limp mode.
My mechanic said he tested the wire cold then warmed up the car and tested again and saw a dramatic rise of resistance in the cable. The two options we had is to insulate with a sleeve or try to reroute the wire. Since I am adding a vented hood, we decided to go with the sleeve. (attached pic) In doing more research this is actually a well known fact in thermal electrical engineering here is the definition for Heat resistance. Heat Resistance Heating a metal conductor makes it more difficult for electricity to flow through it. In metal conductors, electrical current flows due to the exchange of electrons between atoms. As electrons move through a metal conductor, some collide with atoms, other electrons or impurities. These collisions cause resistance and generate heat. Heating the metal conductor causes atoms to vibrate more, which in turn makes it more difficult for the electrons to flow, increasing resistance. https://nationalmaglab.org/education...eat-resistance ![]() |
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