Topgunz - air to air upgrade

perez519

[IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171006/62591d64173b13dfae8aa8dbe5a4ef59.jpg[/IMG

Even with anti-slip pulley, no change on the dyno! Same tuner and dyno who's been doing my car for 4 years now. I'm still not making 9psi? And only making 7.5psi according to his dyno. As you can see my torque also dips down a bit on mid power. Any ideas guys? Link here on IG for more info on my mods list https://instagram.com/p/BZ5KvuSDMrE/batt great product btw and love the sense of humor on the instruction lol.


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perez519

https://instagram.com/p/BZ5KvuSDMrE/


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TBatt

It looks like you are running the stock Stillen system. That is where your problem is, you need the A2A kit.

What pulley did you install for the 9psi upgrade, the Stillen or the Vortech?

The Stillen pulley mounts on the engine driven jackshaft and my kit will prevent slip on that side but the SC drive belt may be the problem.

By using my kit on the serpentine drive belt and using the Vortech 2A038-295 pulley and replacing the SC idler pulley with a Gates #36225 you should not get any belt slip.

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

Kamillio

Just as a personal note, I am running A2A and your kit to prevent slippage. I make only 6.5psi on stock pulleys while I should be making 8psi. The MAP sensor says I'm making 8, but my boost gauge and fuel pressure regulator say I'm making 6.5. The gauge and FPR are teed of the same line that the BOV uses to the Stillen intake manifold. Everything is clamped tight and readings are consistent.


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370z

overtureZ

You could have a very minor crimp or hard angle in the boost line running to your gauge.

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Kamillio

The only hard angles in the entire system are the tees to the gauge/fpr. Other than that everything is a nice high radius curve.


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370z

perez519

I'm running stillen 9psi pulley they provided 2 years ago. Yes that will be the next step now is to get Topgunz A2A kit. At same time I will probably replace the impeller and bearings while I'm at it.

So do I need to replace my idler pulley on the SC side?


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TBatt

I don't think that will work in your case. The amount of adjustment on the SC belt tension is very limited. If you increase the pulley diameter to the 64mm one that I'm using it may make it too tight. The larger pulley DOES work if you use the Vortech SC pulley # 2A038-295 instead of the Stillen pulley.

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

TBatt

Which MAP sensor are you using? The stock sensor was not designed to read pressure so it could be off. I'm using the Nissan GTR sensor that SpecialtyZ sells along with there remote tune package. My AEM boost gauge and the GTR sensor agree with each other.

When I was looking for a boost leak I made a leak tester and pressurized the system up to 8psi and both of the sensors read the same (engine not running) during the test. The leak showed up around 3psi if I remember correctly. If you have an aircompressor and a good pressure regulator I'll be glad to loan you my tester that I made.

Top, do you have any words of wisdom that you can share?

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

overtureZ

Did the leak make your car idle funny? Run rich?

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Auto/Z Enthusiast - Mechanical Engineer - Fabricator - Do it for dale

perez519

Yes I have GTR map sensors. But for some reason they still over range and the map code still came back. So I got my tuner to disable that map code.

I don't think I have a vacuum leak I've checked all the lines. I could do a vacuum test as you mention and find out.

I'm using greddy infometer touch boost sensor and gauge. It's digital and connects via OBT-2 live. The monitor can record hi peak of the boost. The weird thing is, it says I hit 9.3 psi at 7600rpm. But during dyno it only shows 7.5-7.7psi max and my tuner could see on top end the power when the car start to slip or not get anymore psi.


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perez519

Also can anyone explain the mid power dip on torque? As you can see the top dyno was done October 2016 and the only changes I made was put on Tbatt anti-slip pulley. Hoping to fix my top end slip and get 9psi.

Is it possible it slipping on the SC idler pulley also? I'm using 9lb pulley provided by stillen btw.



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Jayhovah

What clutch are you running (assuming your are MT)?

My dyno had a similar dip in the middle and it was my OEM clutch starting to slip.

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perez519

Using Southbend TZ Kevlar/ fly wheel/ Zspeed CSC kit. My torque is only at 339tq.


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TBatt

No it didn't because the leak was at the exit of the intercooler which is still before the MAF sensors. The leak only affected my boost or lack of it. When I installed the A2A kit I missed tightening the clamps that hold the coupler from the intercooler to the intake pipe with the MAF sensors on it. It was very embarrassing.....

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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!