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-   -   Topgunz - air to air upgrade (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/110925-topgunz-air-air-upgrade.html)

"Z"en 10-13-2018 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cupcakez (Post 3792040)
oh well
thank you anyways, i appreciate it.
i dont think my car will ever be done.
too many people flake on me that tell me that they will help me out but they dont commit.
unfortunately i cant do anything myself because im completely useless when it comes to doing mechanical work which is why i pay others to help me

even paying them they flake on me
so i have the pretty sad life

im almost to the point where i want to just give up on my build because too many people that i trust let me down.
i'm actually almost to the point that if it isn't done this next coming week then im going to honestly think about selling the entire car with all the crazy after market parts in it for obviously a discounted price and then use that money to buy a diff car

if money doesn't drive them to help me, i dont know what will.

like honestly this is more stressful to me than enjoyable.

i literally had 7 - 8 different people touch my car so far in trying to put it back together because of the inconsistency people give me about helping me out. that's ridiculous right?

I respected your devotion of time and money to the project. If it isn't too late for you when having my bumper removed by my mechanic in the next two months I'll do the measurement for you for the coupler at passenger side.

cupcakez 10-13-2018 12:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by "Z"en (Post 3792059)
I respected your devotion of time and money to the project. If it isn't too late for you when having my bumper removed by my mechanic in the next two months I'll do the measurement for you for the coupler at passenger side.

Thanks man, I appreciate that.
However, like you said, I more than likely will have it solved by then and when I do I will share the information because I am quite sure someone else will run into the issue and that I am not the last person who will run into this issue.

Why does it take 2 months for him to remove the bumper??

redondoaveb 10-13-2018 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cupcakez (Post 3792060)
Thanks man, I appreciate that.
However, like you said, I more than likely will have it solved by then and when I do I will share the information because I am quite sure someone else will run into the issue and that I am not the last person who will run into this issue.

Why does it take 2 months for him to remove the bumper??

I know other people have had this problem, send Topgunz a pm and he'll tell you the solution.

"Z"en 10-13-2018 12:41 AM

Y
Quote:

Originally Posted by cupcakez (Post 3792060)
Thanks man, I appreciate that.
However, like you said, I more than likely will have it solved by then and when I do I will share the information because I am quite sure someone else will run into the issue and that I am not the last person who will run into this issue.

Why does it take 2 months for him to remove the bumper??

I think he just doesn't want to remove and reinstall it again as the car is under tuning. Everything has been installed so far so he doesn't want to change it. However, if I go flex fuel then he has to drop the bumper as I may ask him to install a boost controller so he can't refuse it but has to remove the bumper from my car. There are several other cars currently awaiting for mods and maintainence in his garage so he may simply not wanna delay his schedule for my additional requests. QQ

TopgunZ 10-13-2018 06:37 AM

He won't need to drop the bumper for a flex fuel setup.

Cupckakes...remove that hood latch support. It is fine without it. The couple will fit better then.

Also, spray Windex in every coupler before you put them on. They will slide into place a thousand times easier.

Do not tighten any clamps at all until all the couplers are where they should be or you might create a fitment issue.

"Z"en 10-13-2018 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 3792084)
He won't need to drop the bumper for a flex fuel setup.

Cupckakes...remove that hood latch support. It is fine without it. The couple will fit better then.

Also, spray Windex in every coupler before you put them on. They will slide into place a thousand times easier.

Do not tighten any clamps at all until all the couplers are where they should be or you might create a fitment issue.

Hi, I certainly know he doesn't need to drop it for FF setup but I can take the chance to ask him for the installation of EBC-associated setup on the intake inside the bumper, which I wanna give it a shot in next mods. He has to drop the bumper under the circumstances. Otherwise I have no reason to ask him to remove the bumper from my car, needlessly to say I can have the chance to measure it on my own. Please understand.

Jazz8560 10-13-2018 10:50 AM

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...DDAC15F9D6.png

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...72F0556183.png

:happydance:

I need to upgrade my fuel rails and look into a turboguard! He said it would do 600 easy!

cupcakez 10-13-2018 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 3792084)
He won't need to drop the bumper for a flex fuel setup.

Cupckakes...remove that hood latch support. It is fine without it. The couple will fit better then.

Also, spray Windex in every coupler before you put them on. They will slide into place a thousand times easier.

Do not tighten any clamps at all until all the couplers are where they should be or you might create a fitment issue.


Totally didnt think of using any type of lubrication.
Going to try that
And also take off the black support bar behind the coupler on the top left of the intercooler (passenger side) so the coupler wont be so extremely tight as it is now.

Thanks! Also PMd you regarding some part numbers if you wouldnt mind sharing that ):
I had to replace my air filter since it was caked with dirt from the accident.

Now a few other parts too

redondoaveb 10-13-2018 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cupcakez (Post 3792179)
Totally didnt think of using any type of lubrication.
Going to try that
And also take off the black support bar behind the coupler on the top left of the intercooler (passenger side) so the coupler wont be so extremely tight as it is now.

Thanks! Also PMd you regarding some part numbers if you wouldnt mind sharing that ):
I had to replace my air filter since it was caked with dirt from the accident.

Now a few other parts too

Do you need the part # of the filter? If so, it's K&N #RX-4130-1

TopgunZ 10-13-2018 11:57 AM

Buy a K&N filter cleaning kit. Just spray it and don't re oil if you want better flow.

cupcakez 10-13-2018 12:27 PM

Hah, well I wanted to be safe and just bought another filter xD
I needed part numbers to the couplers in case one or some of em ripped during the installation.

Also my BPV, the part where it opens up is facing the passenger side, should it matter which way the BPV is facing or it does not matter?

I know for putting on the front bumper, the BPV gets in the way if its sticking out too much.
I should need to rotate it behind the Intercooler bracket to make the bumper fit right? Or am i wrong?

TopgunZ 10-13-2018 01:53 PM

Yes, place it behind brackets if needed.

It's better to not blow the intercooler down with hot air.

cupcakez 10-13-2018 03:20 PM

8 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by redondoaveb (Post 3792181)
Do you need the part # of the filter? If so, it's K&N #RX-4130-1

Nooo haha, to be ironic that is the part number I needed was for the top left coupler connecting the IC and the Y pipe that goes through the 3 inch hole we made in the support bracket.

Here are some photos of what the car looks like now.

We managed to put the BPV behind the bracket of the IC, and route the hose to the BPV in a nice way as well, yay!

Check them out!

To be honest, there is a kink in one of the coolant lines right under the throttle bodies, and I have no idea how to fix that...
I will leave that for my mechanic who will come on Monday to triple check everything before we pour all the fluids in and start it up.

He is also the same person that worked on my car and put everything together for my build in the thread, so I completely trust him.

As you can see I did remove the black support bar that was kinking the coupler connecting the upper left intercooler opening to the Y pipe so it looks A LOT better now.

I also went to the store to buy a 2.5" to 3" coupler (the blue one on the bottom right of the IC) because the last coupler that was used on there (the one that came with the a2a kit) was scraped and damaged, so it was definitely a goner.
We managed to clamp it down enough so there's nothing escaping, it looks fine and feels extremely tight to me so it's all good now.

The car should be up and running by Monday!

TopgunZ 10-13-2018 04:13 PM

I'm confused. Why are bolts twisted? Why is there heat reflective tape on piping that does not see ambient heat and should be cooled? Why is a 50mm flange on the exhaust of the Tial? Your causing more harm than good.

Thermodynamics and pressure gradients (air flow)

cupcakez 10-13-2018 04:19 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 3792226)
I'm confused. Why are bolts twisted? Why is there heat reflective tape on piping that does not see ambient heat and should be cooled? Why is a 50mm flange on the exhaust of the Tial? Your causing more harm than good.

Which bolts are you talking about that is twisted?

I just put it on there because I seen other people put it on there lol so I thought I should do the same -- honestly if it makes it worse then I will take it off, didn't know that. Nobody really said anything about it so I thought it was fine..haha glad you said those things though.

Where should the 50mm flange be instead??

I faced it the way it's facing because I was going off of other a2a kit pictures I saw.

Please help me correct the things that are wrong!


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