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However, like you said, I more than likely will have it solved by then and when I do I will share the information because I am quite sure someone else will run into the issue and that I am not the last person who will run into this issue. Why does it take 2 months for him to remove the bumper?? |
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He won't need to drop the bumper for a flex fuel setup.
Cupckakes...remove that hood latch support. It is fine without it. The couple will fit better then. Also, spray Windex in every coupler before you put them on. They will slide into place a thousand times easier. Do not tighten any clamps at all until all the couplers are where they should be or you might create a fitment issue. |
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http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...DDAC15F9D6.png
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...72F0556183.png :happydance: I need to upgrade my fuel rails and look into a turboguard! He said it would do 600 easy! |
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Totally didnt think of using any type of lubrication. Going to try that And also take off the black support bar behind the coupler on the top left of the intercooler (passenger side) so the coupler wont be so extremely tight as it is now. Thanks! Also PMd you regarding some part numbers if you wouldnt mind sharing that ): I had to replace my air filter since it was caked with dirt from the accident. Now a few other parts too |
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Buy a K&N filter cleaning kit. Just spray it and don't re oil if you want better flow.
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Hah, well I wanted to be safe and just bought another filter xD
I needed part numbers to the couplers in case one or some of em ripped during the installation. Also my BPV, the part where it opens up is facing the passenger side, should it matter which way the BPV is facing or it does not matter? I know for putting on the front bumper, the BPV gets in the way if its sticking out too much. I should need to rotate it behind the Intercooler bracket to make the bumper fit right? Or am i wrong? |
Yes, place it behind brackets if needed.
It's better to not blow the intercooler down with hot air. |
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Here are some photos of what the car looks like now. We managed to put the BPV behind the bracket of the IC, and route the hose to the BPV in a nice way as well, yay! Check them out! To be honest, there is a kink in one of the coolant lines right under the throttle bodies, and I have no idea how to fix that... I will leave that for my mechanic who will come on Monday to triple check everything before we pour all the fluids in and start it up. He is also the same person that worked on my car and put everything together for my build in the thread, so I completely trust him. As you can see I did remove the black support bar that was kinking the coupler connecting the upper left intercooler opening to the Y pipe so it looks A LOT better now. I also went to the store to buy a 2.5" to 3" coupler (the blue one on the bottom right of the IC) because the last coupler that was used on there (the one that came with the a2a kit) was scraped and damaged, so it was definitely a goner. We managed to clamp it down enough so there's nothing escaping, it looks fine and feels extremely tight to me so it's all good now. The car should be up and running by Monday! |
I'm confused. Why are bolts twisted? Why is there heat reflective tape on piping that does not see ambient heat and should be cooled? Why is a 50mm flange on the exhaust of the Tial? Your causing more harm than good.
Thermodynamics and pressure gradients (air flow) |
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I just put it on there because I seen other people put it on there lol so I thought I should do the same -- honestly if it makes it worse then I will take it off, didn't know that. Nobody really said anything about it so I thought it was fine..haha glad you said those things though. Where should the 50mm flange be instead?? I faced it the way it's facing because I was going off of other a2a kit pictures I saw. Please help me correct the things that are wrong! |
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