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700hp twin turbo project

Got the JE pistons in Friday. Dropped my stuff off at the machine shop today. Baby steps!

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Old 02-22-2016, 11:57 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Got the JE pistons in Friday. Dropped my stuff off at the machine shop today. Baby steps!

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Old 02-23-2016, 03:26 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Very cool. Wouldnt fit an engine block in to my trunk.
These are the CR 10:1 pistons, are they?


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Old 02-23-2016, 09:30 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by V1H View Post
Very cool. Wouldnt fit an engine block in to my trunk.
These are the CR 10:1 pistons, are they?


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Yep. They are the 10:1's.
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Old 03-03-2016, 11:27 PM   #64 (permalink)
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So over the past few days I got a little bit accomplished. Memphis370 and my dad assisted with engine removal.

Before:


After:



Theres all kinds of little shrapnel on the front subframe lol. While removing the engine and transmission, one of my connectors on the transmission got smashed and broke against the transmission tunnel. Luckily I have a friend that works at Nissan and actually had one on hand. I also picked up another connector for the factory dash gauges since Ill be relocating my other gauges. Where? I don't know yet.



Once we got the motor out, there were little metal pieces falling out everywhere. Me and Memphis370 will be taking the other motor apart for poops and laughs to observe the damage, but here is a little sneak peak lol. Go big or go home right?





Im pretty excited to see the damage. I can salvage a few things off of this motor (intake plenum, valve covers, timing covers), but most of it is toast I'm sure. Im kind of waiting, not knowing what to do with my hands right now since my block is still at the machine shop. They said Monday it should be done by Wednesday. Well here it is Thursday night at 10, and Im blockless. I did however purchase some precision tools for assembly. Stuff to check clearances and what not. For what Ive paid in tools I could have easily just paid to have it assembled, but I like to do things myself. I want to know its done right, and will do it to the best of my ability. Hopefully my ability doesn't fail me lol. I have already learned a lot through this process and I havent even done anything yet. Learning is fun and is a part of the journey for me!

I also picked up some SPL bushings. Kyle at IPP hooked me up on them. From what I have heard, you don't get much wiggle room with SPL on price, but he gave me a bit off of MSRP. Ill definitely be hitting Kyle up when it comes time for a few more SPL pieces. Anyway, with more power, I know that bushing in the subframe is going to be dead fairly soon. So I got new differential bushings. Also, since I'm going to be back there, I went ahead and got new subframe bushings as well. You might say to yourself, "Dragon wtf are you thinking? Whats the purpose of this car going to be?". No purpose. I loved the solid feel on my old 350z (had solid everything) so I decided to do the same to my 370z. The response is amazing and feedback from the car is instant. Its hard to explain. Last but not least, something I almost forgot about since its been hidden away in a closet for over 3 years, I have a finned Nismo differential cover Ill be putting on. I got it for my 350z back in the day, but then it got totaled out before I got around to putting it on. Lucky for me, it also fits the 370z.







As always, Ill try to stay updated for those of you who are interested. Its fun documenting these things so when Im old, I can show my grandkids this stuff and call them sissies.
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Old 03-04-2016, 01:11 AM   #65 (permalink)
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Good stuff
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Old 03-04-2016, 01:34 AM   #66 (permalink)
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Definitely like to see the damage. Will be installing my BP kit soon. Fingers crossed I don't end up like this..... Excited to see this build
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Old 03-04-2016, 05:52 AM   #67 (permalink)
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WOW
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Old 03-04-2016, 10:19 AM   #68 (permalink)
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How are you installing the subframe bushings, I am looking into doing that as well.
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Old 03-04-2016, 12:40 PM   #69 (permalink)
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I thought the engine usually drops out the bottom?

How long did it take to get all that stuff disconnected?
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Old 03-04-2016, 02:05 PM   #70 (permalink)
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How are you installing the subframe bushings, I am looking into doing that as well.
Its a process... you have to obviously remove the subframe. So you have to disconnect the ebrake cables, take the brake calipers off, take the exhaust off, disconnect the driveshaft, and take a few suspension components off. I havent decided if I want to burn them out like i did on my 240sx or drill the meat out and cut the race with a sawzaw.

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I thought the engine usually drops out the bottom?

How long did it take to get all that stuff disconnected?
Taking it out from the bottom is the "proper" way to do it. Unfortunately I don't have prolonged access to a lift and Im doing all the work at my house with no lift. So the next option is to remove the radiator support.

It wasn't that bad. Maybe 2 hours, and thats a high estimate. The most difficult part was taking the ziptied wiring harness off of the fan shroud lol. Also, trying to disconnect the AC lines with cheap disconnect tools was a waste of time. I had to borrow some nice ones and they came off really easy.
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Old 03-04-2016, 02:54 PM   #71 (permalink)
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I upgraded the sub frame bushings when I replaced the rear differential. The mechanic said getting the oem bushings out were a real pain in the a$$. Beware as they are noisy on deceleration because of the flexing of the subframe under load. It chatters until the load is relieved. I have gotten use to it now and it doesn't bother me but if you are sensitive to cabin noise I would not recommend it.

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Old 03-08-2016, 06:19 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Alright guys, I need some help wrapping my head around bearings... I have been beating my head against the wall about this since 7 this morning. I know my measurements, I know what I want my clearances to be, but I have no clue how to get the proper sized bearings.

So, for reference, we will use the stamps on my block and crank. The block for Main #1 is stamped "S". The #1 main on the crank is stamped "M". Here is a picture from the FSM stating measurements and grade of bearing for those particular stamps.



Grade 4 bearing per FSM



Now here is the math.



Someone help me out here. Using the measurements out of the Nissan FSM and math, it says my clearance will be .0007, however the minimum clearance is .0014. What am I missing? This is making it difficult for me to find the proper size bearings I need. The math isn't adding up and it's driving me crazy.
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Old 03-09-2016, 11:20 AM   #73 (permalink)
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Agreed that the math does not add up. Maybe the assembly lube is supposed to take off the last bit for the final clearance number they give you in the manual.

BTW, have you looked into using aftermarket bearings to get away from the over-temp issue with the "green" Nissan ones?
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Old 03-09-2016, 11:27 AM   #74 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by B&W_Evader View Post
Agreed that the math does not add up. Maybe the assembly lube is supposed to take off the last bit for the final clearance number they give you in the manual.



BTW, have you looked into using aftermarket bearings to get away from the over-temp issue with the "green" Nissan ones?

I haven't. The only aftermarket bearings I know of are the ACL mains. I don't think anyone makes aftermarket rod bearings.
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Old 03-09-2016, 12:10 PM   #75 (permalink)
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I haven't. The only aftermarket bearings I know of are the ACL mains. I don't think anyone makes aftermarket rod bearings.

The last time I checked, coated oem rod bearings were the best option available since there's no aftermarket option.
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