BP turbo build/advice

hc_416

UPDATE!!!!

The good, I am tuned on about 8lbs, I made 405hp and 323tq on a mustang dyno.

The bad, I still have an air leak I need to find; when the revs start going higher up in the afr is going up and down and not staying steady.

The ugly, I went to a local tuner East Coast Swapper that was bad, (pm for more info I’m not here to trash anyone; or look at my google review), and I let them hold my car for about six weeks and got no tune....

So I made the switch to ECUTECk, and I have to say with the new tune the car seems to be running smoother and is a little more responsive. I had John Visconti tune it, and I have to say he did a good job. He got the car tuned and let me know I had a leak and let me know where to start looking. John is also sending my files over too ECUTECK and talking to Sasa. While the numbers were a little disappointing I am happy that I found a tuner that I could trust and work with to get the car were it needs to be. Now for the air leak; John recommend to start around the downstream 02. I called my installer at Exccelrate Performance and will be dropping off the car next Friday to get the leak fixed. Any advice is always welcome! I will put the dyno chart up in a day or two.

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Boosted Performance

Good work...there is still a bit of power left there if you just bump that boost up by a couple of psi

As for the a/f reading and leak, go straight to the turbine outlet, where the down pipe is clamped on the turbine. Remove it and check for RTV. I have implemented a tongue/groove connection there, but just double check it. Add some of the red RTV that comes with the kit, and you'll be good to go.

Enjoy the car.

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hc_416

Ok Sasa, i will tell my shop to do that, love boosting in first, second, and third! I think there is a lot more left, is the tq low? I believe it is

jwick

Hard to say on a mustang dyno. I was originally tuned on one and my 405 on a mustang was really 500 on a dynojet.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

hc_416

Hey guys! Well I have the shop looking at my car. My AFR seems to be jumping around, not sure why and looking for ideas. They are throwing out that the innvoate gauge is to far up and at the right distance. I'm not sure how I feel about this. I am looking for ideas on what would make the AFR jump around. I was thinking dirty o2? Any advice would be appreciated.

jwick

It bouncing around when? When WOT or when in closed loop?

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

Boosted Performance

I had asked the shop about details on when this is going on, but they never replied. I also suggested they have a look at the down pipe V-band flange, and add RTV to where it connects to the turbine. If this is the issue, the reading would only be bouncing around at idle and possibly very low load. If they get back to my email, I could possibly provide more input.

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hc_416

Thanks Sasa, I will call them tormorrow and let them know what you say. I'm not sure why they didn't reach back out. Hopefully they can respond to you buy 12 p.m

instroke

When at Idle - AFR's will bounce around from 13.9 -14.7 same with a cruising speed. Ideally it should be 14.7 at idle but our digital gauges and with engine pulses - it's practically impossible to stay at 14.7 all the time.

Even at WOT - we see our AFR's go to 10.5 - 11.5 or so... they never just stay in the 10's or 11's.

I used the AEM tru boost on another turbo'd vehicle - and same thing. It always jumps around a little.

best of luck

With Sasha... you are missing a "h" in his name... thought I should let you know..

hc_416

I thought so too, but his email only has that. Sasah want to chime in?

hc_416

Here was his reply to me,

said "The closed loop fueling is going crazy with the car.. Which is l likely due to the sensor placement." He also asked about o2 sensor placement, I provided him pictures, I am just waiting to hear back from him to seer what he suggests.

jwick

That doesn't make sense. Closed loop fueling is determined by the trim fuel O2 sensor which is the one on the OEM header. You didn't move that at all with the install.

Now he could be taking about the O2 sensor which should be post-cat which are now in the same bank. In theory those aren't supposed to do anything but measure that the cats did their job. In reality I believe they do more than that.

I'm not clear on exactly when you are having said issues. In closed loop the car should be running feedback loop from the fuel trim sensor. My closed loop AFR always bounced around a lot, mostly at idle, but it would happen closed loop at speed too but not as bad.

My solution, remove the post-cat O2 sensors and go on with your life. I did and my idle has been rock solid ever since.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

hc_416

Thanks jwick, I will keep that in mind and let them know.

hc_416

Hey guys, i'm back again!

I have been driving the car and it is really fun, but..... in the morning when I went to drive the car it would not make boost under low throttle. I heard a farting sound which sound's like i'm leaking air out. I went under the car and don't see any loose pipes or fittings. Any idea's what i could look at to get it fixed, or is this a bring it to a shop situation? I'm planning on more work in the winter and hope to dive it till after the driving season then get some more work done.

Chuck33079

Stuck bov? They need to be lubed periodically.

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