BP turbo build/advice

Gooch · 03-08-2020, 11:26 PM

Late post but you need the upstream O2 sensors for sure. Downstream sensors only monitor cat health and have been known to potentially cause idling issues in BP kits. You can easily remove these (Sasha includes plugs) but consult your tuner first as he has to disable the CEL and some tuners like the downstream O2 sensors for doing their stuff. Go OEM for sure.

hc_416 · 03-09-2020, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gooch

Late post but you need the upstream O2 sensors for sure. Downstream sensors only monitor cat health and have been known to potentially cause idling issues in BP kits. You can easily remove these (Sasha includes plugs) but consult your tuner first as he has to disable the CEL and some tuners like the downstream O2 sensors for doing their stuff. Go OEM for sure.

yea i just bought two new downstream 02's. I dont use them at all but since i had to do the work might as well put them in. I have the 02's turned off in the computer so no worries there.

hc_416 · 03-25-2020, 01:41 PM

Quick up date, the car is alive! i have to finish up loose ends and then start to test the work I did. I need to make sure oil gets to the scavenge pump, test the greddy boost controller,(which seems to be working), and then burn off any of the oil I missed in the pipes. After that a really good detail and deep cleaning. DMV is closed here in CT so no idea when it will be on the road... I hope to have her on the road for my b day barring any unforeseen items pop up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23ie1Bkv-yc&t=4s

Here a link to the vid were i got yelled at by my better half after I started the car and made the house smell like oil and exhaust lol.

Boosted Performance · 03-25-2020, 01:56 PM

All you need to do is make sure the pump is running (in the right direction). If it is you are good to go. You can always double check at the reservoir by loosening the AN fitting, you will hear vacuum being pulled by the pump.

hc_416 · 03-25-2020, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance

All you need to do is make sure the pump is running (in the right direction). If it is you are good to go. You can always double check at the reservoir by loosening the AN fitting, you will hear vacuum being pulled by the pump.

I got her up and running then found out the hose from the exit of the oil pump to the oil pan is leaking/dry rotted out. Can you tell me the lane and size fittings? I need to buy a new one, thank you.

Boosted Performance · 03-25-2020, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hc_416

I got her up and running then found out the hose from the exit of the oil pump to the oil pan is leaking/dry rotted out. Can you tell me the lane and size fittings? I need to buy a new one, thank you.

It is -6AN female on both ends.

hc_416 · 03-26-2020, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance

It is -6AN female on both ends.

I was able to cut off the bad part of the hose and reattach the fitting working great now. The next step is after i burn the tank of gas to hit boost and do another check!

hc_416 · 03-30-2020, 09:33 AM

Quick update, I was able to hit boost; she hit 9lbs! I didn't go much past that, just wanted to check my work out. After the test drive a oil hose needed to be tightened. Today is brake bleeding and getting some gas. After working on the brakes I noticed the coil-overs need to be rebuilt at some point; they also need to be readjusted. One side used the tube extension and the other side used spring compression to adjust the height ;(. I bought new/used 285 DWS conti's with 15 mm spacers as well. This should give me a extra 2mm out back so there is a little more breathing room from fender to wheel. Hopefully DMV will open in a week or two so the wife and I can take a cruise once the quarantine is over.

hc_416 · 04-10-2020, 09:52 PM

well..... another problem came up.

My first two rides went great; on my third ride I went to give it full throttle and it fell flat on its face. No boost, and a lot of lag. I didn't want to push it after that so I took it home. It now just doesn't build boost anymore if at all and when I give it gas it falls on its face. It will build boost at random times or when I go first to second 3/4 throttle it seems to work, then when I hit third it just dies. Really looking for ideas what it could be or what I should look at. Here is a list of things that have been tired,

1. Put a new hose and stiffer spring on the BOV
2. Check to see if the turbo is spinning free with my hand(it is).
3. I checked both waste gates to see if they were stuck open and they would work when given pressure. I just pushed on the valve with my finger.
4. I reran the vacuum hose with new z1 line.
5. I have looked for leaks on the cold side by looking at the t-bolt clamps and trying to move them with force. I also checked to make sure they were tight.

I think I will take the cold side apart and check to make sure i put it on tight but any suggestions would be appreciated.

Boosted Performance · 04-10-2020, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hc_416

well..... another problem came up.

My first two rides went great; on my third ride I went to give it full throttle and it fell flat on its face. No boost, and a lot of lag. I didn't want to push it after that so I took it home. It now just doesn't build boost anymore if at all and when I give it gas it falls on its face. It will build boost at random times or when I go first to second 3/4 throttle it seems to work, then when I hit third it just dies. Really looking for ideas what it could be or what I should look at. Here is a list of things that have been tired,

1. Put a new hose and stiffer spring on the BOV
2. Check to see if the turbo is spinning free with my hand(it is).
3. I checked both waste gates to see if they were stuck open and they would work when given pressure. I just pushed on the valve with my finger.
4. I reran the vacuum hose with new z1 line.
5. I have looked for leaks on the cold side by looking at the t-bolt clamps and trying to move them with force. I also checked to make sure they were tight.

I think I will take the cold side apart and check to make sure i put it on tight but any suggestions would be appreciated.

Don't put a stiff spring in the BOV. The engine vacuum at idle, when warm is what determines your BOV spring. Putting a stiffer spring than the vacuum can open, will cause issues.

Double check that your wastegate lines are connected properly. That is more than likely your issue. TB port to lower ports of the wastegates, and make sure all other ports at the bottom half of the wastegates are close. Leave one port open at the top. There is something wrong there for sure.

hc_416 · 04-11-2020, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance

Don't put a stiff spring in the BOV. The engine vacuum at idle, when warm is what determines your BOV spring. Putting a stiffer spring than the vacuum can open, will cause issues.

Double check that your wastegate lines are connected properly. That is more than likely your issue. TB port to lower ports of the wastegates, and make sure all other ports at the bottom half of the wastegates are close. Leave one port open at the top. There is something wrong there for sure.

I'll check again, but i have the lower ports connected and the top ports open to air. I didn't check to make sure all the plugs are in. Great idea, Just to make sure I used a 5mm silicon hose for the vacuum, that is appropriate correct? Also shouldn't the gate work with just spring pressure if there is no pressure at the bottom of the port?

jwick · 04-11-2020, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hc_416

I'll check again, but i have the lower ports connected and the top ports open to air. I didn't check to make sure all the plugs are in. Great idea, Just to make sure I used a 5mm silicon hose for the vacuum, that is appropriate correct? Also shouldn't the gate work with just spring pressure if there is no pressure at the bottom of the port?

No. If you aren’t applying pressure to the bottom port of the gate it would never open. The WG opens based on turbo pressure, or manifold pressure, depending on where you are taking the source. The exhaust gasses in the piping, pushing on the valve seat of the WG, are basically at atmosphere since it’s open all the way out of the muffler. That’s simple hydraulics.

Boosted Performance · 04-11-2020, 11:33 AM

^^^^ Correct

Kit comes with 6mm silicone hose, but 5mm should not make a difference.

hc_416 · 04-11-2020, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance

^^^^ Correct

Kit comes with 6mm silicone hose, but 5mm should not make a difference.

I did get five and its really tough to get it on, I might just get a 6mm. even that is a little tight. Would that cause the gate not to work?

hc_416 · 04-11-2020, 03:34 PM

what are the best spark plugs to get for the kit, is it still the gtr plugs?

03-08-2020, 11:26 PM	#541 (permalink)
Gooch Base Member Join Date: Nov 2016 Location: Washington State Posts: 69 Drives: 15 370z 6MT Nismo Rep Power: 9	Late post but you need the upstream O2 sensors for sure. Downstream sensors only monitor cat health and have been known to potentially cause idling issues in BP kits. You can easily remove these (Sasha includes plugs) but consult your tuner first as he has to disable the CEL and some tuners like the downstream O2 sensors for doing their stuff. Go OEM for sure. __________________ '15 370z Nismo Tech 6MT Magnetic Black, V2 BP Kit 6467 Unexploded Turbo \| '06 350z Touring 6MT Carbon Silver

03-25-2020, 01:56 PM	#544 (permalink)
Boosted Performance The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Edmonton, AB Posts: 1,629 Drives: Z's Rep Power: 3382	All you need to do is make sure the pump is running (in the right direction). If it is you are good to go. You can always double check at the reservoir by loosening the AN fitting, you will hear vacuum being pulled by the pump. hc_416 likes this. __________________ 750WHP starting @ $7,500 to the door FOR DETAILS VISIT: http://www.the370z.com/members/boosted-performance.html FB: https://www.facebook.com/Boosted-Per...6303179791462/ IG @boostedperformanceyeg

03-30-2020, 09:33 AM	#548 (permalink)
hc_416 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: CT Posts: 254 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 12	Quick update, I was able to hit boost; she hit 9lbs! I didn't go much past that, just wanted to check my work out. After the test drive a oil hose needed to be tightened. Today is brake bleeding and getting some gas. After working on the brakes I noticed the coil-overs need to be rebuilt at some point; they also need to be readjusted. One side used the tube extension and the other side used spring compression to adjust the height ;(. I bought new/used 285 DWS conti's with 15 mm spacers as well. This should give me a extra 2mm out back so there is a little more breathing room from fender to wheel. Hopefully DMV will open in a week or two so the wife and I can take a cruise once the quarantine is over. Last edited by hc_416; 03-30-2020 at 09:35 AM. Reason: spelling

04-10-2020, 09:52 PM	#549 (permalink)
hc_416 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: CT Posts: 254 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 12	well..... another problem came up. My first two rides went great; on my third ride I went to give it full throttle and it fell flat on its face. No boost, and a lot of lag. I didn't want to push it after that so I took it home. It now just doesn't build boost anymore if at all and when I give it gas it falls on its face. It will build boost at random times or when I go first to second 3/4 throttle it seems to work, then when I hit third it just dies. Really looking for ideas what it could be or what I should look at. Here is a list of things that have been tired, 1. Put a new hose and stiffer spring on the BOV 2. Check to see if the turbo is spinning free with my hand(it is). 3. I checked both waste gates to see if they were stuck open and they would work when given pressure. I just pushed on the valve with my finger. 4. I reran the vacuum hose with new z1 line. 5. I have looked for leaks on the cold side by looking at the t-bolt clamps and trying to move them with force. I also checked to make sure they were tight. I think I will take the cold side apart and check to make sure i put it on tight but any suggestions would be appreciated. Last edited by hc_416; 04-10-2020 at 09:56 PM. Reason: spelling

04-11-2020, 11:33 AM	#553 (permalink)
Boosted Performance The370Z.com Sponsor Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Edmonton, AB Posts: 1,629 Drives: Z's Rep Power: 3382	^^^^ Correct Kit comes with 6mm silicone hose, but 5mm should not make a difference. Hotrodz likes this. __________________ 750WHP starting @ $7,500 to the door FOR DETAILS VISIT: http://www.the370z.com/members/boosted-performance.html FB: https://www.facebook.com/Boosted-Per...6303179791462/ IG @boostedperformanceyeg

03-25-2020, 01:41 PM	#543 (permalink)
hc_416 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: CT Posts: 254 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 12	Quick up date, the car is alive! i have to finish up loose ends and then start to test the work I did. I need to make sure oil gets to the scavenge pump, test the greddy boost controller,(which seems to be working), and then burn off any of the oil I missed in the pipes. After that a really good detail and deep cleaning. DMV is closed here in CT so no idea when it will be on the road... I hope to have her on the road for my b day barring any unforeseen items pop up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23ie1Bkv-yc&t=4s Here a link to the vid were i got yelled at by my better half after I started the car and made the house smell like oil and exhaust lol.

04-11-2020, 03:34 PM	#555 (permalink)
hc_416 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: CT Posts: 254 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 12	what are the best spark plugs to get for the kit, is it still the gtr plugs?

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