BP turbo build/advice

jax4557 · 03-27-2019, 08:53 PM

Sasha, I emailed you about some parts a week or two back that I need to get a price on to order.

Thanks in advance,

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boosted Performance

Sorry, missed the PM....replied.

Boosted Performance · 03-28-2019, 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jax4557

Sasha, I emailed you about some parts a week or two back that I need to get a price on to order.

Thanks in advance,

Lengthy reply sent.

hc_416 · 03-28-2019, 08:55 PM

Well, as for my car i'm still saving up some money. I changing jobs and considering ats v coupe or to fix this. Did anyone test drive one?

hc_416 · 01-19-2020, 04:05 PM

Well I back, going to try to get the bat-mobile back up running. I got engaged and took some trips so... the bat-mobile fell to the wayside. To recap the oil pump went and took out the turbo; it also filled my intake piping with oil. At this point I have the car apart and just received my oil pump from Turbo-Werx. I did have to pay for a new one but they did give me a discount and worked with me, props to them. My next task was to follow the wiring of the pump and see if that played a part in this problem. In the directions I have it says pump wire to add a circuit direct. In my car i have a 80 amp relay fed by a 30 fuse off the battery.This relay has a blue wire that is MIA in the engine bay and the other wires taped off. Is this wired correct or should it just be red to the add a circuit and the black to a grounding source. Also please no, "who installed it, your noob, read more, ect..." Maybe Boosted Performance can chime in?

solidus · 01-19-2020, 04:13 PM

Had the same thing happen. Make sure to clean the intercooler too. Mine had a ton of oil in it and I had to dunk it in about 40 dollars worth of gasoline to clean it out.

hc_416 · 01-19-2020, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solidus

Had the same thing happen. Make sure to clean the intercooler too. Mine had a ton of oil in it and I had to dunk it in about 40 dollars worth of gasoline to clean it out.

Did you every find out what happened? and do you have the relay for the pump? I wondering if they wired in the fuel pump and oil pump on that relay for easy install.

solidus · 01-19-2020, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hc_416

Did you every find out what happened? and do you have the relay for the pump? I wondering if they wired in the fuel pump and oil pump on that relay for easy install.

First time was my fault. When I popped my motor, I had debris in the line that got into the exapump and destroyed the gears. I had a small incident on the new pump with the wiring being pinched and shorted on install of the new block. I really wished I had a Comp oiless at that time. Outside that no problems.

hc_416 · 01-26-2020, 11:42 AM

Is there a reason i can not use the ETS A open fuse postion right next to the battery? I have a relay that seems to have no reason to be there. I was going to get a new add a circuit, plug it in to the open Ets a socket and solder the wires together. Then just us the return/ground right to the battery terminal. They way its wired now is thirty amp fuse to the bat, then to an 80 amp relay then to my oil pump. I paid for the install and am going to do the work myself now since there needs some things ironed out. Thank you in advance.

hc_416 · 02-02-2020, 03:17 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zpG...32MoHm&index=1

Here is a quick link to what i did to fix part of my install. They are quick and short vids, hopefully they can help someone that might have the same questions.

hc_416 · 02-09-2020, 07:32 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zpG...32MoHm&index=1

Updated the vids with three short ones, (oil sump playlist). It shows some of the work to finish up the electrical wiring. Cool stuff about the charge resistor, you can even put up to a 2 gauge . Still need to figuer out how I want to use the power side with the fusible link. Any ideas would be appreciated.

hc_416 · 02-17-2020, 09:08 PM

Quick update, I sent out the turbo today and got some good news. If its only the seals that are bad it should be under 400 bucks to fix; lets hope so. I also just finished setting up a quick jack so I can have some more room to work. You can see a quick vid if you follow the link above. They seem to be a lot easier to work with than jack stands and a jack. Next step will be to get four of my buds to come push the car in so I can prep her. I still need to clean out most of the pipes and replace two 02's and a innovate afr gauge sensor. Still progress is progress.

hc_416 · 02-22-2020, 06:53 PM

I was finally able to get the car back in the garage and up on my new quick-jacks! I am now waiting for the turbo to be returned. While waiting the plan is to clean out the rest of the pipes. Then try to find a way to put in a small cat so I can easily pass emission. There is a video of the room underneath the car if anyone was thinking about purchasing a jack. Please just follow the link above.

hc_416 · 02-25-2020, 09:13 AM

Does anyone have part numbers for the upstream and downstream o2's? I just want to make sure I get the right ones. I think I am going to get oem; I have ngt right now. Also if boosted performance could chime in and just verify which o2's I need up steam or downstream? I'm not to do confident they put in the right ones.

The Real JayZ · 02-25-2020, 11:07 AM

Dayumm! Sasha you're still around? Gotta pm you. I was one of the first to run your kit on my 2nd 350. Now heading back to page 1 to learn

hc_416 · 03-08-2020, 09:31 PM

Quick update. I was going to clean the exhaust out but i found that they muffed up the wiring for the gauges. I ended up fixing the wiring and plumbing but need to finish up the oil and temp one. It is giving me a issue. If you watch my vid you can see a really good spot to drill into the car to run some wires for your audio equipment or for fuel pump wiring.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpEyKgke2rM&t=1s

02-09-2020, 07:32 PM	#535 (permalink)
hc_416 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: CT Posts: 254 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 12	https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zpG...32MoHm&index=1 Updated the vids with three short ones, (oil sump playlist). It shows some of the work to finish up the electrical wiring. Cool stuff about the charge resistor, you can even put up to a 2 gauge . Still need to figuer out how I want to use the power side with the fusible link. Any ideas would be appreciated. Last edited by hc_416; 02-09-2020 at 07:33 PM. Reason: bad spelling

02-17-2020, 09:08 PM	#536 (permalink)
hc_416 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: CT Posts: 254 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 12	Quick update, I sent out the turbo today and got some good news. If its only the seals that are bad it should be under 400 bucks to fix; lets hope so. I also just finished setting up a quick jack so I can have some more room to work. You can see a quick vid if you follow the link above. They seem to be a lot easier to work with than jack stands and a jack. Next step will be to get four of my buds to come push the car in so I can prep her. I still need to clean out most of the pipes and replace two 02's and a innovate afr gauge sensor. Still progress is progress. madwi likes this.

02-22-2020, 06:53 PM	#537 (permalink)
hc_416 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: CT Posts: 254 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 12	I was finally able to get the car back in the garage and up on my new quick-jacks! I am now waiting for the turbo to be returned. While waiting the plan is to clean out the rest of the pipes. Then try to find a way to put in a small cat so I can easily pass emission. There is a video of the room underneath the car if anyone was thinking about purchasing a jack. Please just follow the link above. madwi likes this. Last edited by hc_416; 02-22-2020 at 06:54 PM. Reason: spelling

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03-28-2019, 08:55 PM	#528 (permalink)
hc_416 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: CT Posts: 254 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 12	Well, as for my car i'm still saving up some money. I changing jobs and considering ats v coupe or to fix this. Did anyone test drive one?

01-19-2020, 04:05 PM	#529 (permalink)
hc_416 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: CT Posts: 254 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 12	Well I back, going to try to get the bat-mobile back up running. I got engaged and took some trips so... the bat-mobile fell to the wayside. To recap the oil pump went and took out the turbo; it also filled my intake piping with oil. At this point I have the car apart and just received my oil pump from Turbo-Werx. I did have to pay for a new one but they did give me a discount and worked with me, props to them. My next task was to follow the wiring of the pump and see if that played a part in this problem. In the directions I have it says pump wire to add a circuit direct. In my car i have a 80 amp relay fed by a 30 fuse off the battery.This relay has a blue wire that is MIA in the engine bay and the other wires taped off. Is this wired correct or should it just be red to the add a circuit and the black to a grounding source. Also please no, "who installed it, your noob, read more, ect..." Maybe Boosted Performance can chime in?

01-19-2020, 04:13 PM	#530 (permalink)
solidus Track Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Orlando, Florida Posts: 694 Drives: 15' Nismo Black 6MT Rep Power: 10081	Had the same thing happen. Make sure to clean the intercooler too. Mine had a ton of oil in it and I had to dunk it in about 40 dollars worth of gasoline to clean it out.

01-26-2020, 11:42 AM	#533 (permalink)
hc_416 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: CT Posts: 254 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 12	Is there a reason i can not use the ETS A open fuse postion right next to the battery? I have a relay that seems to have no reason to be there. I was going to get a new add a circuit, plug it in to the open Ets a socket and solder the wires together. Then just us the return/ground right to the battery terminal. They way its wired now is thirty amp fuse to the bat, then to an 80 amp relay then to my oil pump. I paid for the install and am going to do the work myself now since there needs some things ironed out. Thank you in advance.

02-02-2020, 03:17 PM	#534 (permalink)
hc_416 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: CT Posts: 254 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 12	https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zpG...32MoHm&index=1 Here is a quick link to what i did to fix part of my install. They are quick and short vids, hopefully they can help someone that might have the same questions.

02-25-2020, 09:13 AM	#538 (permalink)
hc_416 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: CT Posts: 254 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 12	Does anyone have part numbers for the upstream and downstream o2's? I just want to make sure I get the right ones. I think I am going to get oem; I have ngt right now. Also if boosted performance could chime in and just verify which o2's I need up steam or downstream? I'm not to do confident they put in the right ones.

02-25-2020, 11:07 AM	#539 (permalink)
The Real JayZ Base Member Join Date: Feb 2020 Location: NC Posts: 60 Drives: 280z Rep Power: 6	Dayumm! Sasha you're still around? Gotta pm you. I was one of the first to run your kit on my 2nd 350. Now heading back to page 1 to learn

03-08-2020, 09:31 PM	#540 (permalink)
hc_416 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: CT Posts: 254 Drives: g37 Rep Power: 12	Quick update. I was going to clean the exhaust out but i found that they muffed up the wiring for the gauges. I ended up fixing the wiring and plumbing but need to finish up the oil and temp one. It is giving me a issue. If you watch my vid you can see a really good spot to drill into the car to run some wires for your audio equipment or for fuel pump wiring. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpEyKgke2rM&t=1s