BP turbo build/advice

theDreamer

Just tell your boss the Z forum needs to know more details and he can wait his turn.

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hc_416

Updated!!!! Hit 600hp and 461 yq at 15.5 dyno on the front page

jwick

Why does it say AAM TT? Did you swap kits?

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

hc_416

No sir, aam typed in my car as a 370 z at dirat he fogot to change the name. I was told i maxed oht my mafs so i couldnt go father. How does the graohvlook to you guys?

jwick

Pulls all the way to the top and that torque curve is stout! My original tune was 440-450 wtq. It's a lot to handle. Traction will be the issue.

I maxed my MAFs around 500whp when I had the 2.5" piping. I don't recall what percentage I'm at with 3" piping. I wouldn't be surprised to run out at 600whp.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

Staples

440-450 is a good amount of torque. I'm hoping to hit around 550-575whp with the direct port methanol kit. With E85 the ethanol can range too much from a pump, unless you're getting it from a can / drum.

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'08 Infiniti G37s - Forced Induction Fed

jwick

I assume that's a built block for a torque number that large.

I'm not a fan of methanol. It's not that it doesn't work, it's just another mechanical system that can malfunction and a tank that runs dry.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

Hotrodz

Most all tunes for the highest boost settings are done at e70 because you seldom get anything better than e83. In AZ the best you can get is about e56 and Las Vegas is e70ish. You should get maps for various levels of ethanol. I have 4 of them.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

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hc_416

So I picked up the bat mobile and drove her 600 miles. Two things came up, first the AFR gauge wasn't working too well. AAM fixed that with putting in a new sensor, it looks like it was bent. The second thing was my boost gauge is saying I’m over boosting to like 20 and 30 pounds of boost.... the tuner Mike said it was closing when I let off the gas and causing a boost spike. The pressure came from the throttle shutting and really wasn’t there? I saw it happen on my gauge and it doesn’t seem like I’m hitting 30 PSI, but I have no way to tell. The only boos gauge I had was the Greddy Profec and it worked fine when I gave them the car. Another thing I noticed was the car never shows any vacuum? I am thinking it could be one of these things; boost gauge is broke; boost gauge hooked up/set-up wrong; it really is hitting that psi? Advice would be appreciated! Thanks guys!!

Boosted Performance

With a new/built engine, you need find out what your vacuum is at idle, while the engine is hot. Based on this, you may need to change the BOV spring:

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...ring_chart.jpg


The BOV in the kit comes with an 11psi spring, since the vacuum falls in that range with the stock engine. A shop like AAM should know this.

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jwick

How many pounds of pressure were they seeing on the dyno when tuning it?

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

hc_416

It was max 15.5 . The greddy was set at 45% gain.

Staples

550 wheel horsepower, not 550ft-lbs torque lol. I'm using the Aquamist Methanol kit as a safety net more than anything. The Aquamist kit has been pretty good so far. I'm running a boost controller so it's going to be a mild tune around town then a more aggressive tune. I run a can of Torco octane booster on every fill up as well.

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'08 Infiniti G37s - Forced Induction Fed

hc_416

Well after looking how they hooked up the Greddy boost controller, I see they didn't drill out the manifold and they did two tee's off the big line in the back of the manifold. I will fix it when i get the parts but I wanted to know if this would cause the issue i am seeing? the car is running great i just want to get the gauge up and running. Ill get a picture and post it up asap.

hc_416

Well I found two things, 1. They did not tap the manifold for the vacuum lines for the blow off valves; instead they used the big vacuum hose that goes off manifold into the firewall and t fitted twice off of it. I will have to wait and see if they found the vacuum at idle and ask what spring they used.
2. My car on their dyno sheet hit 15.5 pounds boost, so should I find the vacuum and use that to detriment what spring I need? Or is he using the boost controller to control the level of pressure so he doesn't need to change out the spring? AKA can i do it myself( which i'm not sure i can do)?

Is my car ok at the moment?