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Vit's FI TT 370Z Lives!

Originally Posted by Jhill So if I am understanding this right then it sound like your controlling traction based of a predetermined allowable toque output so you never break traction

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Old 09-16-2016, 05:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
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So if I am understanding this right then it sound like your controlling traction based of a predetermined allowable toque output so you never break traction in the first place? Vs a conventional system that is all cause and effect (slip then react). So wouldn't you need to recalculate your table everytime there is a change (tire, track, weather etc.)?
Torque has nothing to do with it. There's a set target driven speed based on a ratio off the non driven speed. Acceleration always requires some slip -- the optimal amount is the limit of the tire. You figure this out, plug it in, and it just holds you on the tire. No "error -> correct" ******** from PID or gain based systems.

And you have the ability to trim the system with the dial to adjust for wet/cold/hot changes. In the case of the Z, it'll be adjustable with the cruise buttons.
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Old 09-17-2016, 01:24 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Torque has nothing to do with it. There's a set target driven speed based on a ratio off the non driven speed. Acceleration always requires some slip -- the optimal amount is the limit of the tire. You figure this out, plug it in, and it just holds you on the tire. No "error -> correct" ******** from PID or gain based systems.

And you have the ability to trim the system with the dial to adjust for wet/cold/hot changes. In the case of the Z, it'll be adjustable with the cruise buttons.
Lol ok so in still confused. If at any time you get frustrated explaining yourself just say and I'll stop but in really interested in how this works. So my ecutek tune is adjustable through cruise like yours and I assume it's just an amount of retard vs % slip.

So if yours is not doing it through timing or throttle how does it work? What happens?

Say I'm on wet/greasy surface and at a stop, I then slam throttle 100% to the floor like an armature. How does yours work to prevent slip? It has to cut power some way right? I mean if I was twin turbod 480+ torque I obviously couldn't allow all 480 down and hold it on that surface instantly or all you would have is spin right?

Sorry I'm just confused
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Old 09-17-2016, 04:00 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Lol ok so in still confused. If at any time you get frustrated explaining yourself just say and I'll stop but in really interested in how this works. So my ecutek tune is adjustable through cruise like yours and I assume it's just an amount of retard vs % slip.

So if yours is not doing it through timing or throttle how does it work? What happens?

Say I'm on wet/greasy surface and at a stop, I then slam throttle 100% to the floor like an armature. How does yours work to prevent slip? It has to cut power some way right? I mean if I was twin turbod 480+ torque I obviously couldn't allow all 480 down and hold it on that surface instantly or all you would have is spin right?

Sorry I'm just confused
Just settle on the fact your ECUTek map can't and won't do what the MoTeC ecu is doing. In fact I have yet to see any OEM ECU do this as they just implement VDC and the goal is just to keep you from dying and not optimizing acceleration.

Timing retard does not work. Throttle closure does not work.

We target a set driven wheel speed based on non driven speed and hold it there. The driven wheel speed must ALWAYS be a certain amount faster than non driven to have "acceleration" (otherwise you're standing still lol). When you have too much is what "overslip" or "wheel spin" -- the tire couldn't hold traction and RPM takes off and you spin. This won't ever happen with a proper M1 setup. It'll just hold. The how and why is beyond the scope of this thread, lol.

Best I can do is show you -- this is of our 910whp FWD cars (about 750 in the video). Video has a tach & vehicle speed playback part way in, you can see the RPM never breaks out into wheel spin.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6N2IqmAYkxw
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Old 09-17-2016, 12:49 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Just settle on the fact your ECUTek map can't and won't do what the MoTeC ecu is doing. In fact I have yet to see any OEM ECU do this as they just implement VDC and the goal is just to keep you from dying and not optimizing acceleration.

Timing retard does not work. Throttle closure does not work.

We target a set driven wheel speed based on non driven speed and hold it there. The driven wheel speed must ALWAYS be a certain amount faster than non driven to have "acceleration" (otherwise you're standing still lol). When you have too much is what "overslip" or "wheel spin" -- the tire couldn't hold traction and RPM takes off and you spin. This won't ever happen with a proper M1 setup. It'll just hold. The how and why is beyond the scope of this thread, lol.

Best I can do is show you -- this is of our 910whp FWD cars (about 750 in the video). Video has a tach & vehicle speed playback part way in, you can see the RPM never breaks out into wheel spin.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6N2IqmAYkxw
Ok I think the video helps. Looks like it's doing it through a fuel cut so the rpm stays down.
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Old 09-17-2016, 06:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Ok I think the video helps. Looks like it's doing it through a fuel cut so the rpm stays down.
dude, just google motec traction control and read up on it.

its a 3d table where you set a target slip ratio for your calculated maximum acceleration based on vehicle speed and throttle position and the ecu wont let it go past that based on what position you are in the table.
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Old 09-19-2016, 01:57 PM   #6 (permalink)
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the ecu wont let it go past that based on what position you are in the table.
He is asking "how" not "when"
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Old 09-20-2016, 12:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok I think the video helps. Looks like it's doing it through a fuel cut so the rpm stays down.
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He is asking "how" not "when"
It's not a fuel cut. The underlying code & logic in the ECU is more complex than the simple explanation: it's a selective cylinder drop designed to hold your at your target driven to non driven speed ratio ("slip").

I took the car out for it's first drive today, got the base sync done, fresh oil in it (4k miles on the original oil since I TT'd it), things went smooth so far! Lots of work to do still -- Navi MPG gauge works pro. The data gauge MPG is off a bit, and I'll have that rectified in my next update.

http://blog.vittuned.com/wp-content/...firstdrive.png
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