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So i plan to stay N/A, Hopefully in the near future I"ll be able to afford a dry sump and B.R. billet crank to build the bottom end to rev
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#1 (permalink) |
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So i plan to stay N/A, Hopefully in the near future I"ll be able to afford a dry sump and B.R. billet crank to build the bottom end to rev safely rev to 9k. Similar to OnPoint DYno's 350z, do you think ecu tek would be more than plenty or could this kit greatly improve tuning capabilities over ecu tek.
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#2 (permalink) | ||
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The stock ECU sucks at this, as it's designed to keep you from wrecking and nothing more. ECUTek will never touch the logic in the motec, I've already spent a lot of time adjusting settings and with a turbo car you'll still spin the tire (especially 1st gear) even if you pull AALL the timing out of it (this motor just makes a ton of torque with twins lol). I have an intricate timing + throttle pull on my ECUTek map, the results are "meh" and nowhere near optimal. Better than the stock VDC, but not even 1% of a motec, lol Quote:
Beyond that I can't really answer that -- everyone has their own goals and needs. I just converted an 07 Civic Si to an M1 and built the car a dual fuel system firmware package for the ECU -- goes between E85 and M5 fuel at the flip of a switch in the car (4 cylinder 2.5L motor with 8 injectors, 2 pumps, 2 regulators. eg, two complete and segregated fuel systems run by the ECU based on driver demand). |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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And you have the ability to trim the system with the dial to adjust for wet/cold/hot changes. In the case of the Z, it'll be adjustable with the cruise buttons. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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So if yours is not doing it through timing or throttle how does it work? What happens? Say I'm on wet/greasy surface and at a stop, I then slam throttle 100% to the floor like an armature. How does yours work to prevent slip? It has to cut power some way right? I mean if I was twin turbod 480+ torque I obviously couldn't allow all 480 down and hold it on that surface instantly or all you would have is spin right? Sorry I'm just confused |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Timing retard does not work. Throttle closure does not work. We target a set driven wheel speed based on non driven speed and hold it there. The driven wheel speed must ALWAYS be a certain amount faster than non driven to have "acceleration" (otherwise you're standing still lol). When you have too much is what "overslip" or "wheel spin" -- the tire couldn't hold traction and RPM takes off and you spin. This won't ever happen with a proper M1 setup. It'll just hold. The how and why is beyond the scope of this thread, lol. Best I can do is show you -- this is of our 910whp FWD cars (about 750 in the video). Video has a tach & vehicle speed playback part way in, you can see the RPM never breaks out into wheel spin. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6N2IqmAYkxw |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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