Piston rings fried - stillen supercharger
 

Well my worst nightmare came true and after 5,000 miles on my stillen supercharger kit with the upgraded impeller the Piston rings are fried! Looking for advice from guys who have been in this situation before ? What did you do after you blew your motor ? I think the fastest but most expensive way is to buy a built long block ? Any advice or suggestions on vendors would be helpful. Thanks for the help

ipp

What are your long term power goals?


If its only the rings, and your block is salvageable, building off that may be your best bet.


Shoot me a call at 410-593-7080 or shoot me a PM and I would be more than happy to go over some engine options with you.


-Daelen

Thanks I herd good things about IPP and actually bought my berks HFC from kyle. Should I do a long block or short block ? My concern is if I did a short block and after tearing motor apart to find my head messed up to and then gotta pay more labor and build that ?

Look on the parts for sale part some guy is selling his stock long block for 2,900 or OBO or give daelen a call.

First off. Sorry to hear it man.

If you want to go for more power some day:
I would pull the heads. Inspect them. Then if all is good send the short block to IPP and have him sell you a new built bottom end then re-attach the heads. If the heads are toast then go long block. I doubt they are though.

If you will always be happy with under 550whp:
Buy the best deal on a used block and swap it in.

I have several questions to ask you though if you don't mind:

So how much boost were you making? How was it tuned and was it tuned after the upgraded impeller? What pulley setup did you have on? What gas were you using? What was your afr's? and finally. What did you have for a fuel system?

No matter what you will want to take the heads apart to clean everything, and at that point a valve job is not a bad idea. Another option is cams, as it will never be cheaper than now to install them.

Its really easy to snowball a price fast on an engine build, but the big thing is having a long term goal, and a plan, as that will help guide the build and spend the money in the best places.

So how much boost were you making? -10 psi
How was it tuned and was it tuned after the upgraded impeller? It was tuned with upgraded impeller - I'm 100% the tune is the reason it blew. It was running to lean
What pulley setup did you have on? Stock stillen pulley
What gas were you using? 93 that's all I ever use
What did you have for a fuel system? GTR injectors and walboro fuel pump

Build the block. Drop in the the jwt cams.


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That sucks man. What caused it to run so lean? What AFR's were you getting before it popped? I just dont see how any knowledgeable tuner could let it leave their shop while it runs lean.

Sucks going threw this but the same thing happened to me it was cylinder number 2 piston ring that went with the Stillen kit. This is common with this kit when trying to make power I've heard of a few more motors that went because of the same thing. I am sure your heads are fine mine were I just rebuild my bottom end.

With the stillen original pull through system the mafs cant read intake temps. So the motor thinks it is getting ambient temp air. It will most likely advance timing. The TINY stillen aftercooler is trying to cool an already insane amount of hot air. Add more power means adding even more hot air. Car still advances timing. = Bad day.

This kit was engineered to never go over 9psi.

Now if you were to somehow let the motor know the intake temps and keep them cool........

Another Stillen Kit causes catastrophic engine failure....what's new but this piece of a junk kit keeps getting prompted when it is well know that she over heats the Engine.

#StillenKit Sucks #Facts.

If you plan to keep the Stillen Kit then I think your best bet is to put a stock engine back in and leave the kit completely as Stillen designed it. You don't need a built block to run the kit at the power level Stillen designed it for.

If you are going to build it, call IPP. They have been building Nissan engines for decades.

I agree and building a block for a Stillen SCer kit seems overkill. Unless you fix the MAF location so the engine actually knows what temperatures it's getting you will have the same problem.

I totally disagree with your statement here. The kit does not suck. In fact it does everything it was designed to do. It is an easy install and makes power. It can easily break 400whp "the way it was designed" and be safe. There is a reason why they make you sign a waiver if you want even a 1psi more pulley on the kit. Because it was designed for one safe psi level. Anything after that and your asking for trouble. Especially if you start upgrading the power maker itself, as in this case. However, the guy did even admit it was the tune, in which will cause the same problems in every kit on the market. If his AFR's were running super lean, then even at the 8psi level it would have let go.

If someone asked what the easiest way to make 400whp on our cars is. I would tell them to get the stillen kit. If someone asks what the easiest way to make 500whp is, I would tell them to get the BP kit and stay away from stillen.

400whp is no joke. Its just insane how much power is being made these days. But 400whp is like 450 on the engine. How many cars come with 450? Its still a lot of power.

Years after the 350Z came out it was the "quest for 400" and it was considered to be insanely fast. If you had 450whp in your 350 you were the top dog.

Moral of the story:
Safe numbers on stillen kit are around 400whp. If that's what your goals are you will be fine. If, and when, you get power hungry, DONT try to push the stillen to the limits. Buy a turbo kit instead.

:ninja3: Unless you want to SERIOUSLY modify the stillen kit. :rock: