Sorry to hear your motor blew man. Good luck on the rebuild and I would get it tunes by someone who really knows their ****. If you're heads are good,
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01-13-2016, 08:56 AM | #16 (permalink) |
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Sorry to hear your motor blew man. Good luck on the rebuild and I would get it tunes by someone who really knows their ****. If you're heads are good, which they probably are, I would just buy a short block!
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01-13-2016, 09:15 AM | #17 (permalink) |
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Totally agree on not being greedy with the Stillen kit. I am leaving everything alone as Stillen stock and making a little under 8 PSI boost and 380whp. It's going great and reliably.
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01-13-2016, 10:20 AM | #18 (permalink) |
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Thank you all for the input. What's crazy is i should have known something was up when my local tuner told me he had to stop tuning at only 379 whp at 10psi!! This was on the heart breaker dyno. He said that my GTR injectors were at 99% and MAF were almost at max voltage! I thought that was insane at less than 400 whp. Also like someone else's said it was cylinder #2 that gave. I bought the kit used with the upgraded impeller man I wish I could take that out! Now the decision what to do next.
The person who works on my car works for nissan so this plays into my decision on which route to go. I don't plan on selling stillen kit due to the hassle and good deal I got on it so going TT not a option. But Damn I wish some vendor would make a kit I can buy to move the MAF sensors ugh ! Scenario #1 - short block - since he would have to tear motor apart and would take some time he would have to do this at dealership and charge me a reduced labor price and also risk finding a ****** up head and than have to build that. I was also told by IPP that I won't get the benefit of the porting if you did keep you stock heads. Scenario #2 - used motor swap- this is cheapest option - if I did a complete engine swap my guy who works at the dealership can do this at his home shop on a weekend and not charge me any labor to do it. He's a great friend I know lol - but my concern about buying a used motor is I feel like it would just be a bandaid fix and kinda just wasting $2000 with no performance benefits and the risk of this happening again and not to mention no way to really know how many miles are on the used motor and how it was treated. Scenario #3- built stage 1 long block from IPP- most expensive option but most positive gains and if I did this I would keep this z until the wheels fall off no new car for me for a long long time lol - my guy would also be able to to the swap at his house and not charge me any labor and said he could have it done on a weekend. Only downside is I will have this awesome built long block but still have stillen kit and never get use the full potential of built motor kinda like overkill. But I should have piece of mind with this built motor and not be in this situation again. I don't think I would see any performance gains from built long block right just a safer more reliable motor right ? Scenario #4- sell car as Is - cut ties and loses - what do think I could sell for ? I still owe 19k on loan Car details - 2013 370z 50k miles base brilliant silver - AT -stillen supercharger kit -upgraded impeller, csf radiator,GTR injectors, walboro fuel pump, berks HFC, AAM S-line midpipe AAM S-line axleback - Z1 34 row oil cooler -stillen trans cooler, avantgarde m310 wheels Which one would you guys choose ?
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2013 370z base brilliant silver - AT -stillen supercharger kit -upgraded impeller, csf radiator,GTR injectors, walboro fuel pump, berks HFC, AAM S-line midpipe AAM S-line axleback - Z1 34 row oil cooler -stillen trans cooler, custom UpRev tune avantgarde m310 wheels |
01-13-2016, 10:30 AM | #19 (permalink) |
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Option 3 and fine a new competent tuner. Upgrade your MAFS and add a return fuel system too
+ Maybe one day you can save up enough extra cash to swap to a turbo kit, in the meantime you'll have a fast reliable and fun car while you wait
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01-13-2016, 10:33 AM | #20 (permalink) |
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I didn't want to make assumptions but I almost said in my last post that I bet those GTR injectors were seeing high duty cycles. If they were at 99% then that is 100% guaranteed what went wrong. So we cant blame the kit on this one at ALL. You should never go over 80% dc on injectors. Even if you had the Fast Intentions kit and paid 20K for it and every supporting mod and had them professionally install it, it would have blown. You ran out of fuel bro.
Now, if Sasha (BP) is really going to start mass producing an a2a setup for the stillen kit you can go that route. However, the most the v3 sc will put down on our cars is around 550whp. So even going that route you will not put a built longblock to use. The limiting factor is the impellar speed will top out and the bearings will give at anything over 14psi.
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01-13-2016, 10:36 AM | #21 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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2014 Nismo #350 , Built Motor, Top Mount Single Turbo .... 620 whp/ 500 lbs wtq 2012 Track/Drift Z, build coming soon. Build Thread - http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...70z-build.html |
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01-13-2016, 10:41 AM | #22 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
My biggest concern is the hot intake temps still. At 10psi that shitty aftercooler just can not cool the charge. On a 90+ degree day that intake is going to be insanely hot. I have no data on just how hot that charge is once it has passed through that tiny aftercooler and is in the lower plenum. But I can tell you that I melted plastic that I had in front of my BPV!!! I also can tell you that the highest intake temps I have read on my a2a setup is 95*. Ahhhhhh.....feel the breeze. FYI. I am making 490whp on 10psi.
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ROTREX SUPERCHARGER TUNER KITS - $6799/ CUSTOM STILLEN AIR TO AIR KITS -$2100/ 700+ WHP!! WWW.TOPGUNSPEEDWORKS.COM Last edited by TopgunZ; 01-13-2016 at 10:48 AM. |
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01-13-2016, 10:44 AM | #23 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I'm not blaming the stillen kit at all- I'm not pointing fingers at anyone besides my tuner.. I don't see how my GTR injectors and MAF sensors were maxing out at the whp I was seeing. We all take risk when boosting so i understand that. I have followed many of your post and trust your knowledge greatly. If you were in my shoes what would you reccomend me do next to make sure this does not happen again and get the most out of my built block and SC ? Thank you bro
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2013 370z base brilliant silver - AT -stillen supercharger kit -upgraded impeller, csf radiator,GTR injectors, walboro fuel pump, berks HFC, AAM S-line midpipe AAM S-line axleback - Z1 34 row oil cooler -stillen trans cooler, custom UpRev tune avantgarde m310 wheels |
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01-13-2016, 10:59 AM | #24 (permalink) |
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Most out of a built block and sticking with the SC? You have to go air to air. Just don't ask Jwillis about it.
The way I see it is this: 1. Built block + stillen oem = 400whp (cheapest) 2. Built block + stillen a2a = 525whp? (extra 2k? and not sure sasha will do this) 3. Built block + BP kit (most affordable) = 700whp (extra 8K) So what are your power goals? Also, what are your current mods? Supporting over 500whp is a lot different than supporting 400.
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01-13-2016, 02:42 PM | #26 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I agree with your statements in that the STOCK Stillen SC kit is not only safe but pretty powerful too. That is the direction I am going in June. The OP had some bad stuff happen because of a used kit that was obviously not compatible with all of the upgrades. The injectors were not suited for the increased fuel flow requirement. What some fail to realize is that turbocharging is "free" horsepower while a supercharger gets its power from the engine. So, when looking at WHP from a turbo and crunching the numbers on what the crankshaft horsepower is will be pretty accurate. Not true with a SC. The engine is not only producing the WHP that the dyno is reporting but the additional crankshaft power needed to power the SC. I have not run the numbers but I think that is around 60 crankshaft HP to drive the SC @ 8 PSI. If you dyno-ed a turbo setup and got 400WHP the engine is producing around 500 crankshaft HP. A SC setup that produces 400WHP will require the engine to produce +560 crankshaft HP. Make sense? That additional 60 HP will need extra fuel and air. My 2 cents.
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RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE! Last edited by TBatt; 01-13-2016 at 02:50 PM. |
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01-13-2016, 08:59 PM | #28 (permalink) |
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What I have learnt after reading all these SC threads is that you should really leave the kit as Stillen designed it or be prepared and OK with all these problems you SC modifiers have had and are some are still having. Not worth the hassle IMO.
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01-14-2016, 12:26 AM | #29 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Injector duty at 99% is way too high, you can't even account for variances in temperature at that point. No wonder the engine ran too lean. |
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01-14-2016, 07:42 AM | #30 (permalink) |
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The only problem I have had is I cant drive my car in the snow.
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