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PongSanity · 05-09-2016, 08:05 PM

The eboost2 boost controller can display boost so technically you can get a regular AFR gauge. Save a few coins... Are you running the defi gauges up top? Why are u running the factory oil gauge plus leaving the factory gauge in? You can replace it for an e85 content gauge. Innovate makes a good one. I'm getting my oil temp gauge tap into my Z1 oil spacer.

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jwick · 05-09-2016, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jax4557

Im moving on to preparing for gauges.

Since im going to run ecutek and need the stock oil temp gauge can it be rewired or extended down into the nav cubby? If it can I will probably junk the volt and time gauges up top and put three new gauges in there ( real oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure)

I think im going to run the AEM 30-4900 AFR in the A pillar along with a turbosmart Eboost2.

On a side not I am running E85 but wouldn't need a gauge since it seems I can hijack the stock oil temp to display ethanol content on the fly?

Open to any suggestions, changes or new gauges.

Thanks guys,

I was under the impression that you can't divide up the stock gauges, either they all stay or all go.

solidus · 05-09-2016, 09:21 PM

True I just took one apart. Its all one piece.

1cleanZ · 05-10-2016, 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PongSanity

The eboost2 boost controller can display boost so technically you can get a regular AFR gauge. Save a few coins... Are you running the defi gauges up top? Why are u running the factory oil gauge plus leaving the factory gauge in? You can replace it for an e85 content gauge. Innovate makes a good one. I'm getting my oil temp gauge tap into my Z1 oil spacer.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The amount of uneducated "suggestions" and advise in this thread absolutely drives me nuts! From the crash bar, to gauges, to individual solutions, if you don't even own a Z, stop "being the expert", let alone if you own a Z and haven't dealt with a particular setup or product 1st hand, don't suggest it or how to use it

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

I was under the impression that you can't divide up the stock gauges, either they all stay or all go.

^^^correct!! Its a "cluster"

jax4557 · 05-10-2016, 11:48 AM

So if I want to change out the cluster gauges I would loose the ecutek ability for traction control setting visuals and anything else using oil temp gauge. No work around or way to ungrounded it? I am electrical savvy.

Hotrodz · 05-10-2016, 11:53 AM

Fixed, get a Galeforce pillar gauge pod!

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solidus · 05-10-2016, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jax4557

So if I want to change out the cluster gauges I would loose the ecutek ability for traction control setting visuals and anything else using oil temp gauge. No work around or way to ungrounded it? I am electrical savvy.

I would'nt bet on a workaround but it may be possible. When I tore the thing apart last week there were only 5 wires to the main harness on it. ( Constant , Switched, Ground and the other two I assumed were input to the oil temp but I'm a cop not an engineer so don't trust that. ) The assembly itself is much cheesier than you would imagine since it's hidden behind the hoods and the dash. The other discovery is that once you pull the hoods off you are permanently in double sided tape land. A second but important thing to remember ( I knew it before I glued but I still did'nt pay attention. ) IF you decide to go custom guages mark the hood and the gauge housings in 1,2,3 order because if you permanently afix the gauges to a housing thats your permanent order unless you feel like breaking them apart and putting them in the order you initially wanted. ( I will be showing Oil temp, AFR and Oil press. I wanted to show Oil Temp , Oil Press and AFR )

jax4557 · 05-10-2016, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solidus

Make sure you explain the nature of the RJM clutch before the install if you have one. If you dont, you're gonna set it up again on your own and they're gonna have the worst time ever trying to bleed it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwick

Even for E85 and a future block I think 1150s are overkill. Guys are making into the 700whp with 1000s.

I could be wrong but I don't think the car will even idle with 1150s and the stock map. You tripled the injector size so it's going to triple the fuel its dumping.

Quote:

Originally Posted by solidus

I would'nt bet on a workaround but it may be possible. When I tore the thing apart last week there were only 5 wires to the main harness on it. ( Constant , Switched, Ground and the other two I assumed were input to the oil temp but I'm a cop not an engineer so don't trust that. ) The assembly itself is much cheesier than you would imagine since it's hidden behind the hoods and the dash. The other discovery is that once you pull the hoods off you are permanently in double sided tape land. A second but important thing to remember ( I knew it before I glued but I still did'nt pay attention. ) IF you decide to go custom guages mark the hood and the gauge housings in 1,2,3 order because if you permanently afix the gauges to a housing thats your permanent order unless you feel like breaking them apart and putting them in the order you initially wanted. ( I will be showing Oil temp, AFR and Oil press. I wanted to show Oil Temp , Oil Press and AFR )

If there is wires instead of PCB going to the oil temp gauge I can certainly solder extension wires and cap the rest of the stiff off belonging to volt and clock. My goal would be to get the oil temp into the cubby for on the fly ecutek changes.

Any pictures by chance?

solidus · 05-10-2016, 02:08 PM

I can snap a pic and send it to you tonight. What do you need a picture of ? If you want I can break up the assembly so you can see the back of how it's connected or just show you the harness which I cut to solder my own connections to for switched power, ground and constant. The only thing it's missing is the orange which I have to tap from somewhere else for the headlights. The problem with going your route is that you'll need to remove the dash to keep it intact. A bonus though is that since the donor pod I used is whole you can basically do what I did. You can have the pod just to experiment with what you need to do to make it work. I have everything I need off of it. I'm keeping the connector though.

jax4557 · 05-10-2016, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solidus

I can snap a pic and send it to you tonight. What do you need a picture of ? If you want I can break up the assembly so you can see the back of how it's connected or just show you the harness which I cut to solder my own connections to for switched power, ground and constant. The only thing it's missing is the orange which I have to tap from somewhere else for the headlights. The problem with going your route is that you'll need to remove the dash to keep it intact. A bonus though is that since the donor pod I used is whole you can basically do what I did. You can have the pod just to experiment with what you need to do to make it work. I have everything I need off of it. I'm keeping the connector though.

I found pictures online, it is not nearly as modular as I thought. Its a complete piece and not worth digging into at this time with all the other things going on (clutch, fluids, BP). I think im going to just get a galeforce pod with A/F, boost/controller.

Do you have a picture of your finished setup?

YzGyz · 05-10-2016, 05:42 PM

Or be handy a spend a crap ton of time and build a pod thing to your taste. However, the GF set is top tier stuff. I just wanted to be different that's all. If only I know how to lay CF really well. Anyhoo, I'd place the more important gauges in places of best and most view. For instance if I replaced the 3 stock ones. From left to right it would be oil pressure, afr, boost, then oil temp somewhere else.

I only have a ebc/boost Guage (eboost street) and afr. They are at eye level and in front of the oem triple Guage cluster.

YzGyz

solidus · 05-10-2016, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YzGyz

Or be handy a spend a crap ton of time and build a pod thing to your taste. However, the GF set is top tier stuff. I just wanted to be different that's all. If only I know how to lay CF really well. Anyhoo, I'd place the more important gauges in places of best and most view. For instance if I replaced the 3 stock ones. From left to right it would be oil pressure, afr, boost, then oil temp somewhere else.

I only have a ebc/boost Guage (eboost street) and afr. They are at eye level and in front of the oem triple Guage cluster.

YzGyz

Well at least you made me feel a bit better. I paid a grip for some really good bonding glue and I got my money's worth because I'd have to break $hit to get it apart. I'm now stuck with AFR in the middle of Oil temp and Oil pressure. But who cares...............I got my tracking#

jax4557 · 05-11-2016, 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solidus

Well at least you made me feel a bit better. I paid a grip for some really good bonding glue and I got my money's worth because I'd have to break $hit to get it apart. I'm now stuck with AFR in the middle of Oil temp and Oil pressure. But who cares...............I got my tracking#

Where did you put your EBC and what gauges did you go with?

solidus · 05-11-2016, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jax4557

Where did you put your EBC and what gauges did you go with?

I bought a Kuda phone mount and swivel ball. It's a Greddy Profec OLED so its compact. It's gonna be mounted right of th shift console.

BobbyLight · 05-25-2016, 04:05 PM

Beautiful kit and beautiful numbers! I want one so bad!

If I already have a z1 oil cooler kit, would that work with this kit?

Also does anyone have pics of exactly where the kit mates up to a cbe?
I saw sasa has an option to fit the FI cbe, and another leaving a long pipe to cut to custom length, but I'm just curious how much space the kit piping takes up before the cbe itself starts if that makes sense.

05-10-2016, 11:53 AM	#486 (permalink)
Hotrodz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: NW, AZ Posts: 9,330 Drives: 10 Nissan 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2684385	Fixed, get a Galeforce pillar gauge pod! Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk GaleForce, zguynate and solidus like this. __________________ *Fast Intentions TT Installed and Tuned by Seb at SpecialtyZ 610whp 560tq:\|Fast Intentions 3" TT-TDX*\|SpecialtyZ/Fast Intentions 72 Row Oil Cooler\|SZ 6 Puck Clutch & Flywheel\|3GsCustoms\|Z1\|Wavetrac\|Hotchkis\|Whiteline \|Blitz\|Fortune Auto 500\|Fujimura\|SPL\|H&R\|TK\|TWM\|RPM Rollbar\|Sparco\|Next Level Performance\|TrackSpec\|AeroFlow Dynamics\|Pioneer\|

05-10-2016, 05:42 PM	#491 (permalink)
YzGyz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Houston Posts: 1,449 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 63	Or be handy a spend a crap ton of time and build a pod thing to your taste. However, the GF set is top tier stuff. I just wanted to be different that's all. If only I know how to lay CF really well. Anyhoo, I'd place the more important gauges in places of best and most view. For instance if I replaced the 3 stock ones. From left to right it would be oil pressure, afr, boost, then oil temp somewhere else. I only have a ebc/boost Guage (eboost street) and afr. They are at eye level and in front of the oem triple Guage cluster. YzGyz __________________ http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...gyzs-turn.html YzGyz

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05-09-2016, 08:05 PM	#481 (permalink)
PongSanity Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Virgin Islands Posts: 261 Drives: '09 G37s KH3 6MT Rep Power: 11	The eboost2 boost controller can display boost so technically you can get a regular AFR gauge. Save a few coins... Are you running the defi gauges up top? Why are u running the factory oil gauge plus leaving the factory gauge in? You can replace it for an e85 content gauge. Innovate makes a good one. I'm getting my oil temp gauge tap into my Z1 oil spacer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

05-09-2016, 09:21 PM	#483 (permalink)
solidus Track Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Orlando, Florida Posts: 694 Drives: 15' Nismo Black 6MT Rep Power: 10081	True I just took one apart. Its all one piece.

05-10-2016, 11:48 AM	#485 (permalink)
jax4557 Base Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Jacksonville Posts: 102 Drives: 2014 370z Sport M6 Rep Power: 11	So if I want to change out the cluster gauges I would loose the ecutek ability for traction control setting visuals and anything else using oil temp gauge. No work around or way to ungrounded it? I am electrical savvy.

05-10-2016, 02:08 PM	#489 (permalink)
solidus Track Member Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Orlando, Florida Posts: 694 Drives: 15' Nismo Black 6MT Rep Power: 10081	I can snap a pic and send it to you tonight. What do you need a picture of ? If you want I can break up the assembly so you can see the back of how it's connected or just show you the harness which I cut to solder my own connections to for switched power, ground and constant. The only thing it's missing is the orange which I have to tap from somewhere else for the headlights. The problem with going your route is that you'll need to remove the dash to keep it intact. A bonus though is that since the donor pod I used is whole you can basically do what I did. You can have the pod just to experiment with what you need to do to make it work. I have everything I need off of it. I'm keeping the connector though.

05-25-2016, 04:05 PM	#495 (permalink)
BobbyLight Base Member Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 97 Drives: 09 370z BS 6MT Rep Power: 9	Beautiful kit and beautiful numbers! I want one so bad! If I already have a z1 oil cooler kit, would that work with this kit? Also does anyone have pics of exactly where the kit mates up to a cbe? I saw sasa has an option to fit the FI cbe, and another leaving a long pipe to cut to custom length, but I'm just curious how much space the kit piping takes up before the cbe itself starts if that makes sense.