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Will be taking the z out for a drive in about half an hour, will post my conclusion! |
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I know that the Stillen demo car currently has one of these installed, and I imagine for their demo purposes they use their full CARB legal kit/tune. So with that assumption I just guessed if they could use it on the canned tune then why should I need a retune? That was my logic anyways haha we will see where it gets me |
Update : drove it about 30 miles. It's so close to perfect, I still have a little sputtering on decel but going to tighten it up a bit more once it cools down so I don't burn my arm :tup:
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Pics would be great....post some Vids if u have the time...I'm taking it that this is a direct bolt on easy replacement?
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You do not need to retune.
This is what I did, install the BPV. Remove the cap on the side to vent to atmosphere. hook everything back up, start the car. See how much your piston opens, I adjusted mine so the piston was fully opened at idle. turn the car off, discount your battery, install the cap on the side. hook your battery up after 15 mins, and it should be good to go! |
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Here's a pic I took of the location, the red circle highlights where it is (under the pipe) and the second pic is my best attempt to snap a pic of it installed. If you want any other info that I'm skipping over just let me know EDIT: Whoops lol sorry, pics are huge so I won't embed them but links are below http://i.imgur.com/pNhZM9m.jpg http://i.imgur.com/ki8khXp.jpg |
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At this point I know I'm close. Just sucks that due to the location I have to wait to adjust it after a drive, that engine bay gets HOT :icon17: |
Another day, another opportunity to dial it in correctly :) Let's see how this round goes!
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I did this mod WAY back ( 3 years ago) when I had mine, No retune need but took some time to dial it in also. LOVED the noise when shifting tho, Had a guy in a 911 GO WHOA LOL:eek:
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Okay so here's the current situation.
Valve is all the way tightened, can't get enough leverage to loosen without pulling it out and adjusting. Drove it to work as is with the valve all the way tight. Car is still dropping below idle (to around 500rpm) when coming to a stop after cruising in the city, then its a bit jumpy until it settles at idle again. Also sometimes when at part throttle,the valve opens up around 4000rpm and I really have to push the accelerator to get it to close. Are these symptoms of being too tight ? Or do I need to add spacer to the blue spring for more tension? Edit: also got p0131 and p0151 too rich but I think that's from when I first started adjusting it from full soft. Reset to see if it comes back |
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This is because its too tight, its not opening at idle, your ECU is reading low air. The ecu Is dumping fuel, causing a rich fuel trim. You can take the BPV right out, hook it up to your manifold line, take the cap off, start the car, adjust until the piston is fully opened. put the cap back on. put the BPV back on the charge pipe, discount your battery for 15 mins and hook it back up. |
I'd have to search for my thread but I thought I used the red spring :/ .. Plus for what EVO said tho. Wish I know when I did mine I was driving around and adjusting it :/
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100% sure it is hooked up correctly, used the same hoses that were on the Bosch valve. Might have to swap the Bosch valve back in and try adjusting it the way you've suggested, seems like much less of a headache. The fact it was opening over 4k rpm is what made me think I had to go tighter. My logic told me the boost was overpowering the spring. I guess this is wrong though? Or maybe the blue spring is too soft? I'm on stock cats, last dyno showed just over 9lbs of boost. Before lunch I'm going to take a look at the valve while its idle and see if it is indeed closing. Pretty sure its holding open though. Really appreciate the help guys Edit : seems at the current tight setting the piston is about 80% open at idle. I can see a bit of it peeking through the hole. What's weird is when I go softer, it idles worse. Should I reset the computer (disconnect battery) after each adjustment? |
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