I love this forum! Great way to share info and learn a lot about what to do and what not to do. Thanks to all that contribute! I've been looking
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
11-19-2015, 03:45 PM | #1 (permalink) |
Track Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 832
Drives: 2019 GT-R
Rep Power: 20168 |
Stillen SC Questions
I love this forum! Great way to share info and learn a lot about what to do and what not to do. Thanks to all that contribute!
I've been looking at the various FI options, read many many threads and have come to the conclusion that the stock Stillen SC system would work best for my uses. Please don't come back to me with a TT is better. It may be for you but to me handling and corner control is the most important thing with my Z. I just want more power than stock. I like the fact that a SC car has a very linear power curve and the boost is proportional to engine RPM. No surprise boost while deep in a corner. I've driven a Porsche 930 Turbo and while it is scary fast it is also a beast to control because of the boost curve. Been there, done that, no thanks! What I would like to know from members that have actually installed the Stillen is what level of difficulty should I expect during the install. I have built engines, trannys and done car restorations so I'm no noob to working on cars. One of the most difficult jobs I have done was to replace the knock sensor on my 2000 Frontier. Dang, what a job! 16 hours just to replace a $40 part. The sad thing was that after all that work the truck drove just like it did before the sensor went bad. I think I'll have a better return on time investment with the SC upgrade. At least the car will have more power. One thing that sounds difficult is torquing the intake plenum. I have seen mention of a special wrench to reach the nuts/bolts. Any info about that? Somewhere on the forum, I have it book marked, someone posted an addendum to the Stillen instructions and it looks to be very helpful calling out tools needed that are not mentioned in the Stillen instructions. Luckily I already have an inspection camera (needed to do the knock sensor replacement) so that item is covered. I picked up the $80 camera from Harbor Freight and it does the job! I do not plan on altering the kit unless it has a drivability issue. The as installed ~420RWHP will do nicely (I'll get that pesky M3 that I see some mornings on my way to work). The plan is to do the install next summer to my basically stock Z. By the time I get around to the install I will have the Fast Intentions CBE and Hotchkis sway bars on the car. My car is mostly a DD so I do not plan anything extreme. I can already scare the crap out of my wife with it. We do enjoy a good curvy road ride but I like to go faster than she likes. Without the handle by the door to hold onto (we call them GOD ALMIGHTY bars, because that is what people would yell as they grabbed them) she has to hold on to the door handle while I have my fun. I turn up the stereo to drown out her screaming Last edited by TBatt; 11-19-2015 at 03:48 PM. Reason: scheplling |
11-19-2015, 04:10 PM | #3 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Socal
Posts: 10,203
Drives: WOT
Rep Power: 5850 |
Depending on where your located you may need additional cooling mods.
__________________
638WHP 541WTQ @ 13.5PSI
Build thread |
11-19-2015, 04:38 PM | #4 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 2,651
Drives: 06 350Z , 09 370Z MT
Rep Power: 6834 |
Hardest part is the mani. Mine went on fine with no leaks but I cursed at it the whole time. Bought a set of long wrenches from harbor fright then hammered the size 12 with the bend it needs.
__________________
ROTREX SUPERCHARGER TUNER KITS - $6799/ CUSTOM STILLEN AIR TO AIR KITS -$2100/ 700+ WHP!! WWW.TOPGUNSPEEDWORKS.COM |
11-19-2015, 07:33 PM | #5 (permalink) |
Track Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 832
Drives: 2019 GT-R
Rep Power: 20168 |
Thanks for the replies.
I live in North Alabama and the temps rarely get to the century mark in the summer. When they do I usually drive my beater truck. I do plan on adding at least an oil cooler if the temps get high. I run Mobile 1 0-40w so the oil can take a good amount of punishment. Most of my "spirited" driving is on back twisty roads so long WOT runs are rare. We have some fantastic roads in the area. |
11-19-2015, 07:35 PM | #6 (permalink) | |
Track Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 832
Drives: 2019 GT-R
Rep Power: 20168 |
Quote:
If not, I can hammer as good as the next guy when it comes to making special tools. |
|
11-20-2015, 01:15 AM | #8 (permalink) |
Base Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Birminham Al
Posts: 205
Drives: 2013 370z silver M6
Rep Power: 10 |
Where in Alabama? There are a few of us on here from Birmingham. In fact myself and another member on here are going to install my fast intentions CBE when it comes in. Its shipping next week before Thanksgiving. Your welcome to tag along if you want to get a run down on what we will have to do and how it sounds. Also I love Z1. I have the same expierence that everything ships within a day or two to my house.
|
11-20-2015, 09:32 AM | #10 (permalink) |
Track Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 503
Drives: MY11 370z Black
Rep Power: 16 |
the kit is far from "bolt-on"....
I needed to cut bits out of my fuel pump assembley/re-wire some bits and pieces/you have to cut some body pieces, nothing big but still need the tools.. You'll also want to purchase the frozenboost larger heat exchanger, this is not a direct bolt-on, you either need to invert your crash bar or drill holes in it, you'll have to fabricate a bracket to hold the new heat exchanger. I did this out of the Crash bar brackets. That being said, if you have dabbled in cars before and done some little custom work and have problem solving skills, save yourself the $2000-3000 install price from shops and do it yourself, motor doesn't have to be dropped, can do it in a garage at home. This is the only RHD kit available (from Australia), if I were in US, turbo kit would be the way to go, I really don't understand anyone in the US purchasing the Stillen kit. |
11-20-2015, 09:37 AM | #11 (permalink) |
Track Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 503
Drives: MY11 370z Black
Rep Power: 16 |
Oh, also you'll want an oil cooler, cars in Aus come with them standard so I always forget this,
You'll also need to replace your clutch soon after, stock clutch won't take the punishment for long if you are spirited driving. 1 positive overall, the car honestly drives like a stock car at low rpm but with the extra power up high when you need it, you can putt around town or in traffic and drive without any problems and it still drives perfectly.. |
11-20-2015, 02:47 PM | #12 (permalink) | |
Track Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 832
Drives: 2019 GT-R
Rep Power: 20168 |
Quote:
|
|
11-20-2015, 02:53 PM | #13 (permalink) | |
Track Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 832
Drives: 2019 GT-R
Rep Power: 20168 |
Quote:
The clutch will replaced as needed.......... Your description of how the car drives is exactly what I am looking for. Thanks for the feedback! Everyone! |
|
11-20-2015, 03:16 PM | #14 (permalink) |
Track Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 832
Drives: 2019 GT-R
Rep Power: 20168 |
I probably should have mentioned this earlier but didn't think it important at the time.
Just so you guys have an idea of my back ground I have built two very competitive autocross cars long ago. My first was a very radical Fiat X 1/9 that was barely streetable. That car was a blast in it's day (around the 1974-1980 time frame). By today's standards the car was not much but at that time frame this car was a blast. I often took FTD with it against just about everything that I came across. I have a picture of my little X 1/9 in line at an autocross along with it's class competition, a 930 Porsche, Masarati Mura S, Pantera and a Porsche 914-6. Some pretty heavy hitters for a 1300cc Fiat. The X 1/9 was lowered, big sway bars front and back, the largest wheels and tires I could fit, dual Weber carbs, header, hot cam, 10:1 pistons and a custom exhaust system. The power went from 70hp to around 130. What a transformation! The biggest problem that I had with the car was breaking axle shafts. My second car that I did was about 20 years ago, another Fiat (I'm a glutton for punishment) this time a 124 Spider. I simply took the recipe from the first Fiat and applied it to the second. It worked well but technology has past the two valve engines unless you go to a full race setup. The 124 Spider has been retired and detuned for street and an occasional autocross. It is no longer competitive because all of the mods bump it into the upper classes and it just doesn't have the power to compete against modified Miatas with four valve heads. I have also restored a Lotus Elan, Austin Healey 3000 MkII, Triumph TR3, TR6, also one of the original Mini Cooper S before I switched over to Italian cars. I also helped my dad build up a 1957 Chevy and a 1956. Both were built as daily drivers with modern drive trains. So from all of this you can tell that I have some experience with cars. Enough about me. lets talk super chargers and Z's. |
Bookmarks |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
STILLEN SUPERCHARGER - some questions, please help! | tl1284494730 | Forced Induction | 76 | 07-14-2014 08:56 PM |
Stillen g3 questions | LukasC | Intake/Exhaust | 7 | 02-16-2012 02:32 PM |
STILLEN Front Fascia questions | Haulnz | Exterior & Interior | 2 | 11-02-2011 11:03 PM |
About to buy stillen gen 3 intake, a few questions. | AlexRaymond19 | Intake/Exhaust | 17 | 06-30-2011 08:30 PM |
Stillen HFC - Questions???? | cab83_750 | Intake/Exhaust | 1 | 05-04-2010 09:14 AM |