What do I need to do for TT'ing a 370Z?
 

So now my 370Z is officially paid off. Yay!

Now I'm thinking of using my newfound disposable income to twin turbo her.

So here's the thing... I like cars, but I'm not a mechanic.

I know I'll need to look into buying a twin turbo kit (that Fast Intentions looks nice), but I know there has to be more investments made than just that. What else should I be aware of needing to swap out? Oil cooler? Tires? Exhaust? ECU reprogramming?

Basically... what sort of mandatory work should be done before going TT or should be done at the same time?

*EDIT*
Yeah... I'll be getting a real mechanic to do the work, but I want to have an idea of what I'm getting myself into -- and all the work involved -- before jumping into the pool. :)

*EDIT 2*
Yeah... I could just sell the 370Z and buy a faster car like the Stingray or GT-R... but I bought the 370Z because I love how she looks. Don't want to drive a car I don't like the appearance of, no matter how much better she'd be.

Start with checking out this section of the forum, and start reading :tup:

Forced Induction - Nissan 370Z Forum

call Tony or Kevin at Fast Intentions. they will spend all the time you need on the phone with you and talk you through it all. the kit is amazing and the guys there are the best at what they do.

their kit has a list of add-ons and additions you can get. basically you're gonna need the TT kit, fuel upgrades (injectors/pump), clutch or AT upgrade, oil cooler, tranny cooler if AT, and if you want big power then e95 conversion plus maybe building the block if you're looking to go for big HP.

:tiphat: congrats on paying off the Z!

Ya,all the questions you'll have are better asked over in that section. You'll definately need a heavier duty clutch and diff. :driving:

Haven't seen you post up in a while. Love it when you talk like a slut!:yum:

Must haves: Oil cooler, clutch, gauges, a GOOD tune.

Recommended: upgraded diff bushings, upgraded LSD, suspension/brakes, more/better rubber to put the power down.

i know pansy mentioned the clutch upgrade but should elaborate... the whole 9 yards.

replace everything and go aftermarket csc 110%. the new clutch able to hold that power will definitely be heavier and could cause the stock to go boom faster which could lead to a whole new set of problems.

good luck and let us know what route/items you pick out! also pre-post dyno sheets if it's possible. would be nice to see how much of a beast you created.

i would think this is more of a must-have than optional. anyone can blast but what matters is stopping when it counts!

Money

lots of money.

Well, the guys in here have pretty much said it all.

Fast Intentions is the Kit to go with, and the best way to spend your money.

We are not to far north of you and are a FI dealer for the east coast with a few installs under our belts.

The Fast kit, with oil coolers, upgraded clutch, and a good tune just cant be beat!


You can call me at 410-593-7080 if you would like to chat and get some pricing!


Thanks
-Daelen

And lots of patience, as well as a second car to drive while you are up-building the Z, and then later to drive when you suffer what seems to be the inevitable failures and breakdowns that occur with such extensive modifications. IOW, your Z becomes a hobby unto itself, not really effective or reliable transportation. Nothing wrong with that - everybody needs a hobby -- just be prepared for frustrations, which would be mitigated if you didn't have to rely on the Z as your only car.

I like the Z too, but it's not enough of a hobby for me to have any interest in tuning. Long before spending that kind of money, I'd just buy the Stingray.


.

^ I slightly disagree with that. I feel that a 370Z that is built with daily driving in mind is very feasible. I think where the issues come in are when a customer/shop build a car that is not suited for its purpose. Don't shoot for crazy high numbers, or design a build that is suited for track use if you want a street car and vise versa. Any time you are pushing something to its limits failure will happen.


A daily driven FI 370z is very doable with the correct expectations.

Phunk boosted Z is a DD, made 671 to the wheels and has 60k i believe. So there is another example.

I don't DD mine but I have a lot of hard miles with not one issue.

I'm not sure if I I have the most miles on the Fast Intentions kit anymore, but I haven't had any issues with mine after 20k miles. I know a lot of stock Zs that suffered from more issues than many that are boosted. I think most of us pay attention to every little detail so if something goes south it's not because of neglect it's because something just broke and that can and does happen to any car no matter how much TLC it gets.

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What you should get and a idea on cost to install:

Turbo kit + 9-15 hrs to install
Transmission upgrade &Master C. + 3-4 hrs to install (not sure about AT upgrade)
Oil cooler if kit don't supply one + 1hr
Rear diff mounts +3hrs
Engine mount +3 hrs
Tune and however long that takes

That's about the minimum anyone should get going boost.

Thing to consider
Gauges
Differential gears
Lsd
Boost control
Tires
Vented hood depending where you live
Good gas availability

Things to consider
How much hp you want/need realistically
What do you plan to do with the car
Who will install
Who will be doing maintenance
How much you plan to spend
How long are you keeping the car
Do you have the extra $$ to pay for the extra "maintenance"
Do you have another ride available in ICOE

YzGyz

To do it right you need to have around $20k and a lot of time you don't mind spending without your Z. You also can't let yourself care that no matter how much you spend there's always going to be a blown Mustang or modded GT-R out there that's faster.

Random, somewhat related question: does an aftermarket clutch change the way the clutch pedal feels when shifting?

Depends on what the clutch is designed to do. I have a 6 puck for drag/street. It's really grippy when it engages. It was designed this way for a better launch. My clutch feels a lot different compare to OEM. I would think a drag only clutch would be even more grippy and the max street would be closer to OEM. Different purpose with different intended use = different feel.

YzGyz

^^:iagree: I'm switching to a 6 puck from a street max due to the jump in horse power. However, my experience with the street max was awesome it is all about what you end goals are and don't worry they are going to change as you build and drive your Z as well as meet and talk to others that are boosted. The more you learn, the more you may want to do or not will change!

Honestly speaking I feel like once you start its hard to stop. Boost is addicting lol, thought I had all i could handle but I'm already planning upgrades to add more power, stage 2 return fuel system, triple pass radiator etc...

Lol, my signature line is so out of date because it is always a work in progress. It, seems TerribleONE and I keep chasing each other with our builds as we both are continually upgrading something. I got to stop at some point as my truck needs TLC too...lol!

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Moar boost!!!

For me. I need a 5 gal bucket full of one dollar bills to start with. :shakes head:

Thanks for the answers regarding the clutch, everyone.

Now, I have another random question, regarding insurance. To those of you with forced induction, do you have extra insurance coverage on your vehicle to cover the aftermarket parts? I noticed that Progressive only offers an additional $6,000 of coverage on vehicle modifications. I would hate to drop $15-20k on a turbo kit, only to have some negligent driver crash into me, total my car, and put me out a bunch of money.

I just bought new insurance from State Farm. The girl told me they cover it if you have receipts or it's on the car and you have pictures. I brought in all my receipts and told her to add a clause stating all I have added to the car and its cost. She added it no problem.

YzGyz

Have you had to deal with State Farm regarding claims? I'm hesitant to switch to them because I've heard that they are one of the worst companies to deal with in regards to claims.

Sorry op, not trying to derail. Swiss, revive the old thread and I will answer what I know there. I don't want to hi jack.

YzGyz

I have State Farm and been with them for 30 years. I hit a rabbit back in April and it took out my front bumper and after market carbon fiber splitter. They replaced the splitter with no questions asked. I was told if it's on the car and the repair shop invoices it they will replace it. I keep my receipts for for backup anyway.

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Cross-posted my question to this thread:
http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...insurance.html

Not trying to thread jack. I just figured it was somewhat related to what may be "needed' for a TT'ing a Z. I for one would be livid if I dropped $20k+ on a turbo kit + supporting mods + install costs, only to get in an accident and find out I was only covered for a fraction of that.

What is this manual transmission upgrade you speak of?

I speak of clutch and flywheel. You cant up the power and not be able to send it to the back wheels. The OEM clutch can't handle the added power for long. OEM clutch will simple burn up from slipping with the increase in torque. The flywheel is not a must per say. However, a lighter flywheel = easy for the engine to spin = less energy wasted = move faster from a stop and go. However, there is more chatter with lighter flywheel. Mine sound like a junky car when I creep around in parking lots. It takes away from the car really. People look as I drive by all the time. The question is, are they looking because I have a bad azz car or because the noise of the clutch/fly.

YzGyz

All the parts need for my system was around 15k.

Clutch, TT kit, gauges, Tune, fuel pump, ect...

That's not including the rear end upgrade, and regular maintains.

Change my oil every 2500 miles, and that crap is $70 a pop. :/

AAM, FI, and few other kits are decent. All depends on your want/needs.

If I could go back and not spend the money on things that I ultimately changed/switched out I'm in the $15k spent too. That includes kit, clutch, gauges, EBC, exhaust and suspension.

Agreed, it would really suck to spend all that $$ then something happens and your insurance don't cover it. It would really suck. My though was yes, State Farm cost me a little more but KNOWING my stuff is covered is a great weight off my mind and shoulders. Then in addition to the equipment itself, a shop will be fixing and reinstalling it if it happens. I won't have to be on my back for hours. Installing it was fun, educational, and aggravating.

I hear you. I'm around 18k and I did a lot of work myself with some help (thanks Jwick). It's a lot of $$ but friggin lots of fun too. The spool and boost is soo cool!

YzGyz

Tein spring kit, SPC arms is the only suspension upgrades I needed for street use.

If you do the kit alone with a 6psi tune, you wouldn't have to upgrade the clutch, and rear end(service/nismo cover).

Most people that do max tunes spend the extra money cause we don't want to do something twice later on.

10k should be a doable number if all you want is the kit nothing more. Only two things are a must have is a ATF gauge, fuel pump, and tune IMO.

Must haves to me:
T-85 trans fluid
Mobile One, Redline, Motuel engine oil
Gilken OS clutch
Nismo rear end cover with extend vent with Redline 75w90
Boost controller/ATF gauge
GTR plugs

Just a few extras that you honestly don't need, but makes me more comfortable when i'm in boost.

If the OP is going for a DD, then all of the things that you mentioned are great. I turbo'd my car at roughly 25k (Greddy Kit) and DD it. She never saw any track duty, but I attended ZDayZ '13 and attended most of the local meets (which ended up with a "spirited" drive). I agree with the Fast Intentions TT Kit recomendation (if it were available when I pulled the trigger, that is what I would have).

If that car is going to be in an environment that gets sweltering hot like Texas:

- leave Mobile One out because it tends to break down quickly. I used Motul 5w40 in the summer and 5w30 in the winter
- when I used GT-R plugs they pretty much died quickly and I went to HKS plugs and never looked back (expensive in comparison)
- I went with fuel pressure over air fuel ratio. If your tune is solid, it is something that you won't need to watch
- CSF still makes the best radiator upgrade for the Z, don't give in to Mishimoto (read up on them and you will see)
- (not related to environment) get the upgraded motor mounts (I had Z1 solid, but they also have urethane), it will save you a lot of heartache in the future
- I never could find a NISMO diff cover so I just did fluid changes more often and the VLSD was good to go with 62k on the clock
- never skimp in maintenance, as this is the key to your TTZ's longevity

[QUOTE=roplusbee;3312174]If the OP is going for a DD, then all of the things that you mentioned are great. I turbo'd my car at roughly 25k (Greddy Kit) and DD it. She never saw any track duty, but I attended ZDayZ '13 and attended most of the local meets (which ended up with a "spirited" drive). I agree with the Fast Intentions TT Kit recomendation (if it were available when I pulled the trigger, that is what I would have).


Just one thing I am wanting to ask.

You said you have the twin turbo greddy kit but you would of gone the fast intentions tt kit.. How come you would of gone for them instead???
thanks