Originally Posted by YzGyz This thread was funny.. no offense og poster. I meant the responses are funny.. YzGyz I'm laughing too lol it really got me going tho
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09-05-2015, 11:14 AM | #19 (permalink) |
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Not really. You heard wrong. NA is a waste of money. You need to do a lot more research. The best NA build was at 370whp, and he spent a fortune getting there.
Also, unless you're planning a big power FI build, you don't need a built motor. If you're ok with 500whp, you're ok with the stock block.
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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent Last edited by Chuck33079; 09-05-2015 at 11:20 AM. |
09-05-2015, 11:34 AM | #20 (permalink) | |
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What mods would be safe to do FI and would you go the stillen route vs like a aam tt kit? Again medium track use. |
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09-05-2015, 11:38 AM | #21 (permalink) |
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Fast intentions or boosted performance. Budget $15k.
The other option is cai, test pipes, cat back and tune. Be happy with 330 whp. If you by used parts, you'll be able to do that for $2500 or so.
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09-05-2015, 11:39 AM | #22 (permalink) |
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I guess I'm just trying to make sure my car is durable for the power I want but I guess I wouldn't be getting much with NA. i'll do some research on the FI. All I hear about is people blowing their motors but maybe its people with huge FI lol Thanks again.
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09-05-2015, 11:40 AM | #23 (permalink) | ||
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09-05-2015, 11:43 AM | #24 (permalink) | |
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Actually, there's relatively few blown motors from people who buy good kits, proper supporting mods and get a good tune. There's always the potential for failure, but the vq is pretty solid at high power levels. You always need some savings in case things go south, but there's a lot of guys with a lot of miles on boosted 370s.
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09-05-2015, 11:48 AM | #25 (permalink) | |
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09-05-2015, 11:51 AM | #26 (permalink) |
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Forced Induction Finished Builds
370z Forced Induction for Noobs... Here's some good reading to get you started. The other thing to think about is how much power you really are comfortable with. With full bolt ons and a tune, 330 whp is still a lot of go, especially if you get the suspension dialed in and can drive. It's not a number you'll brag about, but it's not slow at all. Swap out the rear end gear, and you've got a very quick car. 450+whp is a whole different animal. It will require serious respect. If you mat the throttle when you shouldn't, it'll throw you off the road backwards. It's a lot of fun, but you've got to be paying attention at all times. And some of the compromises you'll make for the power will make the car suck as a commuter. The clutch you'll need will be a pain in traffic, for one. It's all a trade-off.
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09-05-2015, 11:51 AM | #27 (permalink) | |
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09-05-2015, 11:53 AM | #28 (permalink) |
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All you need for the motor is a compression test, leakdown test and an oil analysis. If everything looks good, you'll be fine. Do all the supporting mods when you put the kit on and make sure you have a good shop and tuner. Keep up on maintenance. These motors are stout unless you get unlucky or cut corners.
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09-05-2015, 12:00 PM | #29 (permalink) | |
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09-05-2015, 12:06 PM | #30 (permalink) |
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Copy. TYhanks again guys. Let me do some reading and All advice is taken to account. Thanks again Chuck33079 and SouthArk370Z. I appreciate all this. I'll do some more research and tone it down with the forged ****. I'll see what supporting mods I'll need to be safe. Blueprinting and balancing will something I'll look into as well. So right now these are the mods I purchase
ACT Clutch pressure plate. CF drive shaft (1 piece) HD Slave New Master 4.08 gearing pin Quaife 1.5 LSD Short shifter RJM clutch pedal To build up to FI in the future anything I should purchase or does the kit usually come with all that i'll need (other than what SouthArk370z said about balancing and blueprinting?) |
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