Stillen Air to Air setup

EVOHUNTER

The whole reason for this is because where your MAFS are mounted, this wont help our situation.

Example :

Our Intake temps are read by our MAFS, which are in the front intake tubes, by the air filters.

So For example - Air is pulled through our MAFS, say its 23 degree air temp.
It now hits a extremely hot blower and our is now air is 30 degrees. Air mafs still think its 23 degrees, Now the air hits our Manifold intercooler. Now the air into the motor is now maybe 10-15 degrees. BUT our mafs still think its 23 degrees. This is the problem with this kit.


With the MAFs in the proper place by the TBS, With the SI blower impeller and 9 psi pulley, it should hit around 500 whp, we hope lol

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Jordo!

Ohhhh... eh... is there anyway to re-route iat's to read post IC?

Or, if you can rescale the IAT's that should work, right?

Relocating the MAF's will require rescaling anyway, and if they are too close to the TB's, it may be tough to get a stable idle...

Actually, if the IC is doing its job, the compressed airtemps shouldn't be waaaay out of line with IAT's anyway. How efficient are these IC's? Has anyone monitored temps pre and post IC?

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Enjoy it. Destroy it.

EVOHUNTER

you would have to use a Aftermarket IAT sensor and would have to be mounted in the intake manifold under the intercooler. that's the only way for it work.

Its really hard to read what our air temps are after they hit the intercooler in the manifold. But we know that the reading will be way off from what our MAFS are reading. This is probably why people are losing there motors when going higher boost.

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Z&I

Also got this far in my attempt to re engineer the Stillen ...
Divorcing the IAT from the MAF and solving the IAT discrepancy.
Still would have gone with the W2A and ice box ...

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BB

TopgunZ

If ambient is 23 you will never get it below that unless using ice to drop it to 10-15 degrees.

I have done tons of research regarding water vs air and basically water is king, but ONLY on the 1/4mile strip. This is due to the fact you can use an icebox and, like mentioned, actually drop intake temps below ambient. For street use it will heatsoak and becomes a risk. Especailly if you are set up on this pull through style maf sensing like stillen did it. That intake mani aftercooler could get heatsoaked from a run and sit at 120* inside of an engine bay that is 140*. Next full throttle pull your intake temps towards redline could be around 200*. Your engine is thinking its coming in at ambient which on a hot day could be 100*. Therefore, your ecu isn't retarding timing and then....bad day.

Now like Jordo was saying you could set up a w2a differently. The only good way is to keep that intake cooler out of the bay. So basically mount a big aftercooler in the front bumper while still finding room for the heat exchanger portion of it. At that point an a2a is a better choice. It basically is maintenance free and will outperform that w2a anyways in any race that lasts more than 30 seconds.

But. Anything is possible. Ill leave what I had done here.

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